My current Winch Mount..



The Problem..



It significantly decreases my approach angle.

The plan is to modify the current mounting system by cutting off the lower section (at the red lines in below pic) where it bolts to the lower frame and completely anchoring the top section to my front chassis..



This is how I came up with mounting it..



- 2" x 2" x 0.25" angled steel to weld and bolt to the chassis as shown.
- reason for welding is to increase strength as drilling holes for bolts would be difficult. (radiator etc in the way)
- the 6" wide flat steel will bolt across the angled steel (with 6 bolts as shown) to increase lateral strength.
- my winch mount will now be welded permanently to the 6" wide flat steel. the two horizontal standing bars on the 6" wide steel represent where the current winch mount will rest.
- the factory steel bumper was raised 2" because I added a 2" body lift to the truck. the angled steel will pass just under the steel bumper and through my plastic bumper.

Any recommendations / advice before I proceed would be appreciated.

Thanks

not sure about the gen 2 stuff, but does losing 4" (2 each side due to the angle iron) make the winch basket too narrow for the winch to fit?  I think most of the winches are around 21" wide.

There is approx 29.5" between the chassis rails, plenty of room for mounting the winch..

Hey, What do you think of this method?

See attached picture.

^ I figure the factory steel bumper will need to be cut to allow for enough room for fitment.. I was considering it but I liked the look of my current external winch mount..

I shortened a GoRhino brushguard by 6.5 inches in height and fabbed some frame mounts to attach the brushguard directly to the frame through the existing OEM vent holes in the plastic bumper cover instead of UNDER the cover/bumper and frame) with 1/2 inch grade 5 bolts.  

Seems to me it is the same type issue you are looking at only you would need to sleeve your frame bolt holes for extra strength and use grade 8 bolts.  I'm thinking shortening the height of your bullbar 5-6 inches would provide you the clearance you are wanting while still providing your upper front bumper skin some scrub protection and prevent you from cutting up your internal steel bumper (which helps support your bumper skin) and weakening it (even more than they already are).  You would have to trim some of the plastic cross bars on your plastic cover vent holes to do this, but it would be cleaner than cutting into the solid area of the bumper cover over the inner steel bumper. You could run the upper anchor strap (on your bulbar) down the top of the bumper to the frame. You have to scroll down this thread a bit for the brush guard info.

I'm thinking with the placement of the actuator pump lines, vent lines, power steering hoses, front body mounts, clips, the radiator and the front cross member placement you wiil be challenged to get in there to weld on the inside of the frame rails without major disassembly of your front clip and engine well components.  It would appear to be a lot more accessible to  run the welds on the outside of the frame rails and/or sleeve the bolt holes or at least the front bolt hole on the frame.

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/suzuki-grand-vitara-vitara-chevy-tracker-(gen-2-platform)-1999-2005/grille-guard-needed-for-03-tracker/

I'm thinking with the placement of the actuator pump lines, vent lines, power steering hoses, front body mounts, clips, the radiator and the front cross member placement you wiil be challenged to get in there to weld on the inside of the frame rails without major disassembly of your front clip and engine well components.  It would appear to be a lot more accessible to  run the welds on the outside of the frame rails and/or sleeve the bolt holes or at least the front bolt hole on the frame.

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/suzuki-grand-vitara-vitara-chevy-tracker-(gen-2-platform)-1999-2005/grille-guard-needed-for-03-tracker/

From how things looked, I should be able to clear all the pump / power steering etc lines if I were to bolt it to the inside of my frame rails.

My main concern is ripping / tearing the bolts out of the frame while winching, that's why I mentioned welding.. I didn't think about sleeving the bolt holes for extra strength though.

The frame mounts I fabbed wrap around the area where the bottom of the frame curve upward a couple inches (as in your diagram).  The metal frame ends over-lap there and it is a fairly snug, secure fit.... for a brushguard where the pressure will mostly be pushing it to the rear (and against the bumper as well).  However I think the frame rails would need to be sleeved simply because the frames on these trucks are quite thin to keep their weight down.  Just a little too much torque on the bolts and you can easily start caving the frame walls inward which reduces their strength.  I could see the frame wall holes wallowing or tearing easily with pressure.  Sleeving the holes would prevent or reduce this from happening and provide you "more better" strength for the pulling pressure your winch is going to exert on those areas.  You would still need to access the inner frame area to tack the sleeve in though.  Easier access in the front (with the bumper skin and bumper removed) but still awful tight in the engine bay area.  I'm not an experienced, quality welder though.  Maybe a professional welder could pull it off easily.  Check it out.

^ I figure the factory steel bumper will need to be cut to allow for enough room for fitment.. I was considering it but I liked the look of my current external winch mount..

Any pics on how this was done?