My current sami suspension setup:

SPOA +4.5"
YJ's all 4 corners

Front End:
Missing links front shackle over stock location: +2.5" (missing link additional 5" of droop + spring sag)
1" lower rear spring mounts over stock location (printed out online bracket)
Shocks: RRO brand 14" travel if i remember correctly
Shocks: Relocated lower mount to top of tube, extended upper mount: 3" exposed sitting on its own weight
Driveshaft angle: 15 degrees & signs of binding

Rear End
Missing links rear shackle over stock location: +: 3" (missing link additional 3" of droop + spring sag)
1" lower rear spring mounts over stock location (printed out online bracket)
Shocks: Lower mount to bottom of tube, upper mount stock: 3" exposure on its own weight
Driveshaft angle: unsure at the moment, broken U-joint.

I do not plan to go any larger on suspension.  I run 31" tires and should have room to flex with 32 or 33's without rubbing.

I have been looking online for hours learning of different driveshaft/driveline angle options.  What I am not clear on is if i decide to do 4runner CV's for a possible 42 degree angle, will they have enough spline for my droop... and is this even the best option.  Seems like there is a lot to adapters and sourcing parts going this route.

Tom Woods joints call allow an extra 10 degrees but this doesn't resolve spline length.

Lastly, what is the suggested method of cycling the suspension in the yard to measure angles and driveshaft lengths?  Floor jack and cinder blocks sure dont seem to be the easiest.  I realize "both" tires will not droop at the same time... do i need to lift opposite corners for measuring or just a corner at a time?  I have not added any limiters (upper or lower) at this time and I would like to finalize all the suspension within the coming months.

Thanks in advance.

...okay i'll narrow this down some, how about:

Has anyone extended their own set of slip yokes before?

or:

If you have a sami on SPOA YJ's, what did you do for driveshafts?

I know guys that spent almost a grand on the two drive lines and went back to stock shafts with the longer yokes (trail tough) and ground the yokes real good on both ends  and sides where they would hit and called it good.

I know guys that spent almost a grand on the two drive lines and went back to stock shafts with the longer yokes (trail tough) and ground the yokes real good on both ends  and sides where they would hit and called it good.

Yeah... it looks like it can get pretty pricey.  I wonder why they opted to get rid of the custom shafts.

I did some looking at the rig last night.  I am just going to keep SPOA/YJ and lock the missing links for now.  I also have started to lower my t-fer case.  When its all said and done, I think i will relocate it down about 2" and run two perpendicular supports tied to the frame.  Then I can bolt a skid plate between them.  I am more interested in water and ground clearance.

If I remember the vibes were worse with the new shafts, but that does not mean that they were installed correctly, with a dual cardin shaft you have to be within 2 to 3 deg of streight on the diff end so you have to cut and weld your perches front and rear, the rear will starve for oil if not a high pinion and your front will have steering problems unless you cut and roll the king pins for alingment and to clear your steering on the springs. I would lower your case first with just some solid spacers and see how you like it, I would Think that you would be just fine with that, the only thing I could see is shifter problems hitting the tunnel but a sawsall  would fix that, the trail tough dual cardin they sell is 430.00 and has a 28 deg. angle to it and has only about 2.5 inches of travel on it. they use them on missing links. I'm going to be putting the t.t. missing links on my Black sammie and will prob  be bolting them also, have the six pack yj's springs but will be pulling the small leafs off and putting the rear back to 11 deg. or so on the pinion, the guy I got it from got it from a kid in town and it has about a thirteen inch lift so thirty five mph is pushing it LOL  I have stock shafts on it and have not had one fall out yet, the kid flopped it on each side on the con so it is way too high.

This was taken on the 25th of may, last friday.   

If I remember the vibes were worse with the new shafts, but that does not mean that they were installed correctly, with a dual cardin shaft you have to be within 2 to 3 deg of streight on the diff end so you have to cut and weld your perches front and rear, the rear will starve for oil if not a high pinion and your front will have steering problems unless you cut and roll the king pins for alingment and to clear your steering on the springs. I would lower your case first with just some solid spacers and see how you like it, I would Think that you would be just fine with that, the only thing I could see is shifter problems hitting the tunnel but a sawsall  would fix that, the trail tough dual cardin they sell is 430.00 and has a 28 deg. angle to it and has only about 2.5 inches of travel on it. they use them on missing links. I'm going to be putting the t.t. missing links on my Black sammie and will prob  be bolting them also, have the six pack yj's springs but will be pulling the small leafs off and putting the rear back to 11 deg. or so on the pinion, the guy I got it from got it from a kid in town and it has about a thirteen inch lift so thirty five mph is pushing it LOL  I have stock shafts on it and have not had one fall out yet, the kid flopped it on each side on the con so it is way too high.

Theres a damn con to everything isn't there!  I picked up some steel today to officially lower the case and create the combo skid plate.  This seems the best solution for now and will allow me to cut out the stock xmember where the front ds could make contact.  I think the stock spline length is okay with the shackle/links on the stock locations.  I've only allowed for about 3" of max upward motion on the shocks.  I have plenty of upward wheel clearance left but Its looking like the YJ's go flat within this 3" upward range so most of the flex is in the droop. Later just limit my droop amount to what the driveline can handle... minus some comfort zone. 

Man that is a hellofalotta lift!  ...its sure hard to imagine it snowing somewhere!!!  I have not even wanted to be outside this week here in sunny Florida.  My workshop is like an easy-bake oven lol.
 

Ya the Black one in the pic has about a five inch section cut out of the front cross member and a plate welded across it, I just installed a mighty kong mount and the solid hocky pucks that came with it, I was not too sure I would like it solid mounted but I do it's great it does not pop out of gear like it used to with the drive shaft angle trying to rip the transfer case out of it, I can't wait to lower it.   it got to 76 deg. today so I guess I need to get going on it!

Ya the Black one in the pic has about a five inch section cut out of the front cross member and a plate welded across it, I just installed a mighty kong mount and the solid hocky pucks that came with it, I was not too sure I would like it solid mounted but I do it's great it does not pop out of gear like it used to with the drive shaft angle trying to rip the transfer case out of it, I can't wait to lower it.   it got to 76 deg. today so I guess I need to get going on it!

My cross member isn't the trip up as I have a 1" spacer on the t-case side.  I did cycle the front suspension as best as i could today.  Driver tire was 18" off ground, then i jacked the pass. bumper up to simulate the flex.  I had already pulled out the t-case bushings to simulate it "lowered" by the bushing amount.  I think it will work this way up front but I would like it a bit lower to give some room to grow?.  I have been working on my new cross braces and plan to leave the stock mounting locations just in case i ever revert back (if possible).  At least this way i can slowely shim the t-case down bit by bit until I like the angles.  Its just not fair 1 of 3 shafts gets all the cushy life!

I will probably add another custom mount at the rear output side with the 4 existing holes (like RRO's version).  Seems a pretty simple add-on.  I dont have low gears but with the case solid mounted, i will feel better about more support.  I am pushing 2-300% more torque than Zuki designed and pinion bearings sure aren't fun (or cheap).

I also had you by 30 degrees today! Where's your build page on this rig??

I as of yet have not Done a Build page I do most of the work myself and forget to take pictures. The red samurai in the back ground had the yj's and was sitting on 1984 four runner axles that are comming back out and going to stock springs and diffs and i'm pulling the 6.4 case and putting in a set of four to one's   With the sixteen valve engine that it has it pulls them real well. and with the 1.3 in the Black zuk it needs all the help it can get, it will not go up a steep hill in second gear low range from a stop so it gets new diffs and the 6.4's, I'm going to start off with 4.30's and see if it will still do highway speeds as my heep with 5.38's will only do about 38 mph and most drivers here on the highway think that they are on a race course with our nearest stop light being 12 miles away and the residencial speeds for most neighbor hoods is 55 mph (kids have to be fast)so I would get allot of look's going slow. I live up in the cascade mountain range(southern Oregon) up about 4800'  and do allot of snow wheeling with over 440,000 acres out my back gate So I have a good area to test things out, including a nine mile road to the top where they used to race pikes peak races in the sixties but had too many Deaths.

I as of yet have not Done a Build page I do most of the work myself and forget to take pictures. The red samurai in the back ground had the yj's and was sitting on 1984 four runner axles that are comming back out and going to stock springs and diffs and i'm pulling the 6.4 case and putting in a set of four to one's   With the sixteen valve engine that it has it pulls them real well. and with the 1.3 in the Black zuk it needs all the help it can get, it will not go up a steep hill in second gear low range from a stop so it gets new diffs and the 6.4's, I'm going to start off with 4.30's and see if it will still do highway speeds as my heep with 5.38's will only do about 38 mph and most drivers here on the highway think that they are on a race course with our nearest stop light being 12 miles away and the residencial speeds for most neighbor hoods is 55 mph (kids have to be fast)so I would get allot of look's going slow. I live up in the cascade mountain range(southern Oregon) up about 4800'  and do allot of snow wheeling with over 440,000 acres out my back gate So I have a good area to test things out, including a nine mile road to the top where they used to race pikes peak races in the sixties but had too many Deaths.

Sounds like a good attack plan. Prior to our 16v; the 1.3 wouldn't do 45 stock gears & 31's.  I wish I had lower my case gears that i 'just' rebuilt.  This thing just keeps morphing into more than planned so its hard to find a median with spending.  Beef up/go large with one thing ..which turns into something broken, or having to upgrade 3 others supporting the added stresses.

I always wanted to live further up in mountain country... and im definitely jealous of the acreage access and trailing adventures!  Best we have is sand dunes, wash-outs, and mud.  Still fun though... we enjoy just riding around in the forest.

Ya that's why I have three Sammies,LOL and almost picked up a fourth the other day,I just can't leave them alone, I'm trying to lighten my sammies up for gas mileage and for snow wheeling, I would like to weight my black Sammie before I mess with it and hope that the yj's don't add too much weight I know that it is light because I drive it all over the place even into town to get a soda on 1.5 lbs of air in the tires and have had it on about nine feet of snow on top of the mountain out back and have been stopped by the snow cats saying don't get stuck or they would have me towed at a cost of 750.00 a pop.(who's going to tow me?)  So I just ask them to make a turn around for me at the top and they do that for me which is cool ! be cause the sun hits the top of the mountain and is the worst snow, I run an 8000 lb warn upright winch on the back with a receiver mount The helps pull the weight off of the front tires for running in the snow I found that trick out about five years ago and have not looked back or needed it,LOL I need to get a set of snow shoes or get one of my other sammies going incase I run into trouble other wise I would be stuck there for a while. but for now it has been fun.

Ya that's why I have three Sammies,LOL and almost picked up a fourth the other day,I just can't leave them alone, I'm trying to lighten my sammies up for gas mileage and for snow wheeling, I would like to weight my black Sammie before I mess with it and hope that the yj's don't add too much weight I know that it is light because I drive it all over the place even into town to get a soda on 1.5 lbs of air in the tires and have had it on about nine feet of snow on top of the mountain out back and have been stopped by the snow cats saying don't get stuck or they would have me towed at a cost of 750.00 a pop.(who's going to tow me?)  So I just ask them to make a turn around for me at the top and they do that for me which is cool ! be cause the sun hits the top of the mountain and is the worst snow, I run an 8000 lb warn upright winch on the back with a receiver mount The helps pull the weight off of the front tires for running in the snow I found that trick out about five years ago and have not looked back or needed it,LOL I need to get a set of snow shoes or get one of my other sammies going incase I run into trouble other wise I would be stuck there for a while. but for now it has been fun.

Damn i've seen some "I should't be alive" episodes that sound very similar lol.  Sounds fun though.  You have a spare set of driveshafts laying about???  I have a want ad up over in classifieds.

no I've been playing musical parts here lately, most of the ones I have in the parts bin are well used and have rock rash on them, I have been looking at buying another cheap sammie for parts but most are two hours away and towing my car carrier for four hours behind a truck at 4.29 per gallon does not seam worth it, I have been calling trail tough and they send me what I need next day, not sure how they do that?