How hard would it be to shift the rear back 1-1.5"? I'm not looking to upgrade the rear end (yet) but would like to get the rear back further for better departure and look. When I make a steel bumper for the rear soon I don't want the tires too look akward being so far forward in the wheelwell.

I'm not concerend about the arms as I can weld/make new with heims on 1 end and adjustible bushings on the other and I can make a new upper 3rd arm with a heim on the pivot side and brace all that.

I'm wondering if a spacer to essentially extend the driveshaft would work or if I'd need to get a whole new driveshaft.

Are there spacers like this available or would I need to get something made?

What would I do for the spring mounts?


I already modified the front control arms out and forward 5/8" but I should have gone further forward. I'll do that with another set.

You will need a longer drive shaft, but you will also need to do a gas tank lift,
otherwise the diff portion will impact the bottom of the tank at full stuff.

As long as you are making longer control arms (lower) you should look at
relocating as close as you can to the pivot of the U-joint at the back of
the tranny, this will eliminate the amount of slip in and out of the Yoke.

Post some pics of the front move as well

Wild

You will need a longer drive shaft, but you will also need to do a gas tank lift,
otherwise the diff portion will impact the bottom of the tank at full stuff.

As long as you are making longer control arms (lower) you should look at
relocating as close as you can to the pivot of the U-joint at the back of
the tranny, this will eliminate the amount of slip in and out of the Yoke.

Post some pics of the front move as well

Wild

I already modded the front LCA out and forward but failed to take pictures. I also removed the stock bushings from then and installed a piece of 1.75" .120 wall DOM in the larger side to make the ID the same and installed Energy Suspension bushings with their sleves and drilled out the front holes so I could use the same size bolt front and back for the mount (cant recall but I believe both are 5/8 now).


So you're saying remoce the stock brackets on the sides of the frame rail and make even longer arms at the same time so the pivot point is closer to the u-joint so it doesn't move in/out the case as much? Sounds good!

A 2" body lift is next as I already rub under compression with the LowRange offraod coil/strut spacer kit with my 30x9.5 BFG A/T. I want to go with 32 or 33" tires next but I have other plans before that.

Here's a quick .gif I made to represent what I want to do, before is with the front control arms already modded but I'll be getting another set from the junkyard to make it out the 5/8" still but forward around 1.25" total and the rear will be moved back slightly more then represented.

That's a pretty cool pic!

I've read a lot about the "widened and rotated" mods.  The widening on the front end pushes the front forward a bit, and the rear rotate extends the rear just a bit.  They're "Hagen" mods listed in the archives
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_100102/feature_hagans_rearrotate.htm

and while you're at it, and especially if you're going to body lift it, check out the other Hagen mod about lifting the gas tank.  
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_080102/feature_hagen_gastanklift.htm
Although I know you're replacing your crossmembers right now, maybe it'll help provide some helpful tips

That's a pretty cool pic!

Agreed.  The wheelwells all seem to be really tight once you fit a larger tire.

I've read a lot about the "widened and rotated" mods.  The widening on the front end pushes the front forward a bit, and the rear rotate extends the rear just a bit.  They're "Hagen" mods listed in the archives
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_100102/feature_hagans_rearrotate.htm

and while you're at it, and especially if you're going to body lift it, check out the other Hagen mod about lifting the gas tank.  
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_080102/feature_hagen_gastanklift.htm
Although I know you're replacing your crossmembers right now, maybe it'll help provide some helpful tips

Quote from: bentparts on April 19, 2010, 05:16:30 PM

That's a pretty cool pic!

Agreed.  The wheelwells all seem to be really tight once you fit a larger tire.

I knew about the front and the gas tank. I had planned on doing the gas tank after the body lift but when the cross-member failed after a day at Rausch Creek, it called for immediate fixing. The rear rotate looks like a nice mod so I'll do the 2nd option with the 6 holes on the top with a slight spacer between the 2 plates AND move the brackets for the arms to shift it back even more then figure out how thick of a spacer I need for the driveshaft instead of replacing it with custom for now.