up front I have searched the treads and TMI just could not find what I was looking for.
 so I just had to have 33 inch tire so I swapped the transfer case to 6.4 to 1 and the third to tracker so I could run 4:30 ring and pinion, put air locker on it so no turning back , and I thought jeep stood for JUST EMPTY EVERY POCKET... put in a epic trek lift drives fine until you get til the freeway, I,  have it floored and I get 58 miles per hour on the gps
  before I built it I could run 70 on the gps and not have it in the floor with my tired 1.3 stock setup and think I may have gone to far with the gears but maybe it is just the extra drag/ resistance.
this is to be my tow rig and needs to be able to get down the freeway and hit the trails where ever the RV stops so what say U thanks Vern

Samurai on 33's with the 1.3l is going to be hard pressed to do 70 w/o going deeper on your r&p. Since you've done all the hard work, I'd suggest finding an 1.6 Liter 8-valve long block, get the adapter kit from your favorite vendor and plop that in. You can keep all you're intake and exhaust all the way to the long block. With that, you'll get the speed you want AND the trail will be better.

Good luck, Eric

thanks I figure your correct I just looking to make sure before I add any more cost to the project. By the time I do the engine swap I will be in another 7k
why so much one might ask, I just do not have the time to find and purchase a  tracker and then part it out on craigs list. Or is it I have got to the point that lowballers have mad me so angry that I would rather scrap s##t than deal with texts and phone calls. another subject...
I did anther test drive and have some better number  1st 10 mph 2nd 20mph 3rd 30mph 4th 38 mph and 5th is 55 but can push 60 on the flat but she wound really tight, like waiting to see what come from under the hood
However for the support for those guys it drive perfect, as advertised, no wobble or wander better than stock I was amazed.
I did have to loosen a rear disk brake than was dragging way to much and gained a little more. But the rear disk do drag a lot, I upgraded to samurai front disks on the rear.
I have no tac so the best I can tell the clutch is not slipping, just another thought.
as for the swap I think I would go with the 16 Valve just so the would never be any carb issues, but by the time you do the clutch, motor mounts, exhaust w/ header, fuel tank, and power steering it really adds up.
Still not sure as it seems to be geared a little tight I thought I would have been able to do 55 in 4th and the find that there was just no squirrels left to get the last 15 to 20 miles per hour   
Just a sounding board before I fix the problem or go back to a jeep
I really do not want to change the suspension go down to 31 inch tire and switch the transfercase out and still have to put a 1.6 in to get a rig that will do 70 when the traffic around me is doing 80 legally on the SW freeways
   

Drone637 was running a similar SJ413 with 33" tires, 6.4 TC gears, and 5.13 diff gears.  He was able to push 55+, but rpm limited higher speeds.
For what 1.6L motors are going for, I would watch for the 2.0L, and get another 20 hp.  That would almost double your hp, and you should be able to push the gears you presently have.  Although a Sami on 33's cruising at 70+ may be a little dicey.  (Just have to make sure steering and joints are in great shape.)
Just Empty Every Pocket means it is Kit Built.  Home built cost less, but takes more time.  It is time or money, and money is time. 
Just remember "Every  modification begets another modification" , and you have already made a modification (more will be coming).  Doesn't matter what brand you are driving, same rules apply. 

I have a 2.0 motor tranny TC and wiring harness up for sale  if I  knew where you live it might be fisable

Thanks for the input it is heading to southern Or for a swap to 1.6 for a few thoughts yes I thought about doing it all myself but I have Craig's list has become a hassle to off load all of the parts and then getting rid of the body of an extra rig just rather buy it of the shelf and install it myself for the most part, then keep track of the tools I use for that inevitable trail repair
As well as some of the stuff I have got use had to be replaced or rebuilt anyways so all in for a total running gear swap and set the odometer back to new for me.
I did fab my own bumper for the rear and refit an ARB for the front  , but yes I have just bought the parts and put them on myself for the most part. And I will say that the EPIC trek suspension drives very good, in my test runs it really will be a rig that the wife can drive to the store from where ever the RV stops, it is a bit much for a grocery getter but sometimes it more fun to go over the mountain to get bread than run down the two lane.
The big test will be heading out for a multi week tent camp and wheel with limited space.

That's a clean bumper you made there.  Looks good.

I'm too am guilty of buying parts some times when I could have fabricated a part that would have worked.  But, I also like to improvise at times because you can save some major bucks and learn and have fun while doing it too.  Biggest cost savings I have experienced is the rocker panel replacement.  Body shop quoted $1777 to replace rusted rocker panels... with no guarantee of success.  Bought some tubing from metal yard, did it myself for around $150 total. 

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