Hi guys. I have posted a few times and lurked a little more. Done LOTS of searching, reading and ebaying.

Anyway I finally got an 86 JX that is straight, but needs a motor (#3 knock) although it starts easy and runs.

I found an 93 Tracker 4x4 with a solid sounding 1.6 8V that should be in my hands tomorrow pending funds. Will gut it for the motor, wiring and seats. Drop the 1.3 back in and of to the junker for a few bills. Will just run the 1.6 carbed for now, but think the EFI is down the road.

Anyway, to the lift question. She is pretty much stock but has 15x6 wheels with 205/70's on it now.

Want to go with either a SPOA or a simple 3 inch lift for running 235/75 tires. How much real lift will I get with the SPOA on the stock springs (25 years old) vs a 3 inch OME lift? Doing the mods is no issue along with the steering.

I can weld and have built a few motors too. Been building/driving off road since the 70's.

Don't want to go extreme as she fits in my 23ft toy hauler now, so to much width and height are an issue. I will use it for mostly fishing and hunting with a friend or my kids vs my Dmax.

Here is a pick as she sits now. Any suggestions are welcome.

JR

For running 235/75 tires all you really should need to do is trim the front bumper up a bit. 

For an adventure build I like the idea of OME springs, they give you enough room to clear 30" tires and give a softer ride.  With a SPOA you are going to get 5-6" of lift, 31" tires fit just about perfect.

THX, was begining to think no one was going to chime in at all after 70 hits and no comments. 

I do like the idea of new springs vs the 25 year old springs. Plus I think I might do my own shackle reversal at the same time. I am sure I can do that without a kit and will build a front winch bumper and a fold down rear so it fits in the TH.

I really don't want 5+ in of lift for 29 inch tires. I would rather er' on the tire clearance side with a good ride and upgrade the steering.

Anyway, I scored the tracker so I have a good engine doner now. Its only a block away so I can even drive it home and I have a bud who tows them away for a few more $$$ after the fact!! 

If I recall, the 1.8 just bolts right in with no plate and I can use the 1.3 intake carb for now.

I did find lots of rust around the window frame but scored a perfect one for under $50 with the WW motor!

Also got a used set of doors that I plan on cutting down just above the upper hinge 1/2 doors. That will be another thread though,,,,,,,,,,
 

Did you get a Tracker with a 1.8l or a 1.6?  They both require a plate to bolt up to the stock transmission but the 8 valve you can use with the stock intake and exhaust.  The 16 valve requires switching over to the fuel injection rig. 

The 1.8l is similar to the 2.0l, but I believe it has a different flywheel that will allow a 1.6l clutch to be used.  Not sure, as I have only discussed it with some people but haven't heard of anyone trying it out.

With the shackle reversal you will probably get 2.5" of lift or so anyway, one popular mod is to do a shackle reversal up front then the taller springs in the back.

As for the reply, give us a day or two.  Sometimes we want to see if anyone else chimes in first. 

Going to pick it up right now. It is a 93 8v, same valve cover as the 1.3. Will I have to rejet or will the carb be OK with 20% more displacement?

So I know I need the swap kit and a fuel pump. Do I need to mod the pan?

Also, how much wiring to I have to pull under the dash?

I like that idea with the front reversal, then change the rear to match with longer shocks of course.

Supposedly you can bolt it up and run, but I'm not the best person to talk to about that.  I just know it can happen.    If you search around you can find people talking about the 1.6l 8v swap.

There are two kits you can buy for mounting the engine.  The Trail Tough kit requires a 1" body lift, the Petro Works kit does not.  Both are high quality and allow you to bolt it right up.

If you use the carbs you won't have to change the wiring at all. 

Going to pick it up right now. It is a 93 8v, same valve cover as the 1.3. Will I have to rejet or will the carb be OK with 20% more displacement?

So I know I need the swap kit and a fuel pump. Do I need to mod the pan?

Also, how much wiring to I have to pull under the dash?

I like that idea with the front reversal, then change the rear to match with longer shocks of course.

Sure you will have to rejet the carb.  But I would highly recommend swapping the EFI, along with the engine.  Why go to the trouble of an engine swap, if you are going to keep the carb?  EFI...starts great at any temp.; automatically compensates for altitude changes; will give you an error code that tells you where to look, if the system senses anything out of the ordinary (much easier to troubleshoot); more reliable than a carb; better MPG.
If you don't lift it, or don't lift it over a couple of inches, you will have to use the samurai pan and mod it accordingly.  If you do a SPOA or 3+ inch lift, the 1.6 pan should clear the axle fine.
At a minimum, you have to have all the wiring that goes to the ECM.  I would also pull the cluster wiring and the ignition wiring.  It is best to pull all the wiring, except for the part of the harness that goes into the drivers side kickpanel (the only wire you need from there is the one that runs back to the fuel pump....it is easier to just run a new wire).  Then you can sort out the wires you actually need...or if you are sending it off to have someone else do the wiring, that ensures all the wiring is there that they will need.
I wouldn't do a front shackle reversal.  It isn't enough of a benefit to make it worthwhile, IMO.
If you are going to only run 29s, I wouldn't lift it much over a couple of inches, if at all.  With some slight bumper trimming, 29s will clear at stock ride height.  If you go that route, you will have to use the samurai oil pan and mod it, but the lower center of gravity and the "not looking goofy with a bunch of lift and small tires", will make it worth it.

EFI will be in the future, I know it is better. But I live in the wonderful state of Kalifornia and CARB has way to much power here. When I do the EFI I will probably have to use a Referee, so that can wait a little.

I swapped a carbed 2.8 out for a 4.3 TBI in an S10 before and have a LS for my 87 Elky too. Did the harness for the S10 but paid for the LS harness mod.

2-3 inches sounds about right for the lift and the reversal should make it handle better.

Bumpers I will custom build since the rear will have to swing down the clear unless I build it flush with the tailgate.

Is there a link to doing the harness or jetting the carb? Haven't checked Z-facts yet.

THX!!

Well, I scored big on the Kick. Paid $500 for it and sold what was left for $400!!!!!

Got all the wiring, what a pain! Got my TT adapter plate and a new clutch kit on the way, so i am ready to go.

A header will be in the future, but should I leave the kick manifold on it now? If the dual pipes will fit they will be better even with the 1.3 carb. I assume with the 1.3 intake it will run fine, just run out of air up top?

On the pan. Are there drawings of the mods to use the 1.6? I see the rear sump is bigger is this where the interferance with the axle is the issue?

Trying to lift it on the cheap for now. I like just going with the 3 inch spring lift but the spoa is almost free since I can fab the pads easily.

Looks like the lowest lift for the spoa is over 4in even with flush pads.

You could use the trackick or the samurai exhaust manifold.  The samurai manifold will bolt right up to a 1.6 head.

Yes, the 1.6 sump on the oil pan is bigger and it is the what hits the axle, if you don't have at least 3 to 4 inches of lift.  There really is no good way to mod the 1.6 pan to clear the samurai axle.  Just use the samurai pan.
The easiest thing to do, for modding the samurai pan, is to just hold it up to the engine and check to see what part of the baffles need to be cut out.

If you do a SPOA, then you should be able to use the trackick pan and it will clear the axle housing fine, when flexed.

"On the pan. Are there drawings of the mods to use the 1.6? I see the rear sump is bigger is this where the interferance with the axle is the issue?"

Devinney (AFTERMARKET4X4) did an oil pan alteration for a 1.6 swap on an '87 Sammy and has some pics of it on his site under the projects link.  He used a newer 16 valve 1.6L engine so one of the mods he did may not be necessary for your truck with the 8 valve engine.  He called it "Project Sleeper".  The oil pan pics are on page #3.   He shows a side-by-side comparison of the two pans and the changes as he altered it as well as the finshed product.

http://members.cox.net/aftermarket4x4/sleeper.html

Thanks for the link. It clears up all the "mods" I kept reading about but never saw.

I like the idea of rebuilding the springs too for a little lift. Combine that with some taller shackles is just about the height I want for 235/75-15s.

Can you recall any threads on doing the springs?

THX