While I have my rear diff out for rebuilding I'm thinking of relocating the upper coil mounts. When I did the Hagen " over rotation" of the rear axle it did indeed move the axle back almost 2.5 inches but that left the coils at an angle with the tops forward the same amount , if that makes sense. This causes some tension on the whole suspension. So, I think I'm going to cut off the upper mounts and move them back on the frame as much as possible ( shock mount prevents getting the coil completely perpendicular to the axle.)  Anyone ( Mike Hagen? ) done this? In the pic the angle is a bit exaggerated because the top mount is disconnected and the axle wants to rotate down.

I don't know Mike... the question I'd ask myself first is: Is it causing a problem? Any binding/restriction of articulation etc?
You've run it like that for quite a while right? I'd also wonder if the springs haven't worn a 'memory' to that shape.
I guess that's an "If it ain't broke" answer!

OR... you could reposition your lower spring cups slightly forward?  Appears it would still align the springs with the arc of the axle swing.

Hey Fuzzy! Yeah,  I have mixed feelings about it. It does seem to cause some binding especially on those sharp hits to the suspension, like a big pavement transition or frost heave type bumps. I'm also not a big fan of cutting, grinding and welding, BUT I went ahead and did it anyway.  Once it's all finished up I'll post another pic. nprecon,  The difference between top and bottom mounts is too great to reposition the bottom mounts, I've got everything tacked in and with the coils in it lines up good, and yes the coils did have a slight twist to em, but hopefully they'll be ok.

Came out pretty decent for reusing the stock parts. It would have been much easier I think to use aftermarket coil buckets and axle mounts but that would have been another buck and a half and a weeks wait. Welding the top of the bracket that sits on the frame was a bitch, I ended up using a mirror to see and stitching it a bit at a time, you just cant see it. Looks like shit but it's solid. Without a body lift I don't know if the stock stuff could be reused. While I was under there I replaced the upper link with an aftermarket one, the ball joint was flat worn out and the boot torn. The aftermarket one is a nice casting unlike the stamped and welded stocker but we'll see if it's as strong. Took the opportunity to clean and repaint everything too.  Sometimes a rainy weekend is what it takes to get stuff done. I also tore my third apart and cleaned it, and found some water in the bearings, The ring and pinion look good so it's just a complete bearing job and seal. The Kit from LR finally showed up with a big sheet of stickers. Nice.

nice work looks good... I cant imagine welding in a tight space like that with a mirror to see

Bentparts,
Let me know if it rides/handles any different.  I have been riding on misaligned spring perches for years.  I have changed springs regularly, trying to find better ride and correct spring rates.  The creaking and popping of the spring reseating does get old.  How come you didn't just drop the spring perch an inch or half inch for better welding?

BRD HNTR, DOH! That would have been easier. 

Well anyway, the spring angle looks MUCH more better!

What welder did you use?  I have a little Hobart 125 Handler.  I've been happy with it but I wonder about the heat control on it.  It has about five heat settings, the coolest being for 16 gauge metal.  I know I still have some experience to gain, but when I tac'd my rockers in, I had difficulty keeping a bead between the 12 gauge steel and the much thinner sheet metal.  The heavier stuff I do alright with, but I wonder how much problems I would have welding on the frame and components to it.  That's what holds me back from attempting more cutting and welding on my truck for now. 

I found that the best spring rate for the rear is 100lb on 2 door trucks.

nprecon, I'm using a Lincoln 3600, it's just a little one from the Home Depot. Like yours it does fine on the heavier stuff but hard to control on the thinner metals. It also has 5 heat settings. I need a better welder and a Tig machine too, and a plasma cutter and a ....     Frames on these things are thin!
Kreator, I'm runnin 150 lb springs and I agree with you, I think I can get away with a lighter spring. Thats for later though.

Got everything back together, no gear whine, and the ride is much smoother from the back. worth the effort. Now to tackle the vibrating transfer case.