I'll think you'll find around here that making the rigs more capable offroad is a priority ie. lockers, suspension etc. The Suzuki's benefit from light weight and gearing chages to the diffs and or transfer cases are used to bring back performance. Apart from the obvious header/exhaust changes and free flowing filters not to much else is done in the name of reliability. Cams do help the 8v engines though. I'm currently changing my cam in my 16v and have also fitted an adjustable cam gear. The 16v head flows pretty well. A few such as Wild have played with turbos or engine swaps ie. 8v to 16v or even the 2.5 or 2.7 V6. The motor can be overbored to 78mm and I've recently seen a 79mm but you do need to resleeve and machine the rods to take the larger piston pin for the new pistons.

Thanks CJ and Wild for your replies..

    I appreciate your views on the camshaft selection, I'm definitely getting an education on how the Suzuki SOHC responds to cams. I think I'm going to try the split duration cam, seems to be the best compromise to hit the targets.
    I also appreciate the input on engine mods. I've always been a 2WD/RWD kinda guy and it's a real treat to see a different side of things. I feel sorry for my wife, shes got a 94 SideKick 4dr 16v 4 by 4, and I'm starting to think we need to check this stuff out. I was going to check into lowering it (we only use the 4by4 for the deep snow we get here) but maybe it's time to try something different. She won't let me go beyond the Cold air induction and 2 1/4 exhaust I've already installed...but maybe some agressive tires and off roading are in the future.

Thanks again

Zag

I vote for a lift

The Sidekick/Tracker cam is designed for low down performance for offroad use. There was an 8V Sport model sold in the UK that had a higher state of tune (95bhp) and an 8V carb Swift that had a 115bhp engine. I would imagine the cams from either of those models would be better for top end power.

Thanks again for the replies:

    Did another series of runs last night (ok I like playing with it) and went through my old cam books. I also went back over the flow bench notes from back in 95-96 and came into the shop and looked over a bare head.
    Came to the conclusion that the 226/395 is probly the right cam for both applications I'm messing with. So I've starting pulling the engine again. I'll report back with the results so the next guy has a bench mark to work with.
    Really appreciate the input from everyone this is a great group. When I've got it finished I'll post the final specs, results and pictures (if I ever figure out how to work the digital camera).
    But on a final note:
I had an evil thought for an off roader...
- G13A long block fully prepped (balanced, ported
 polished, etc)
- G10 (early) turbo pistons
- Hawk or Calmini torquer cam
- lightened flywheel

- Custom made TPI manifold
- SDS electronic fuel injection
- My dual crank fire ignition
- Turbo from a Isuzu 1.5l I-Mark
- Dodge Colt inter cooler
- about 12psi boost
-Wonder how it would work off road?
-In a lowered 4wd 2dr 89-90 Sidekick/Tracker for
 rallying?

I think I may feel the next project in the works...

Zag

I am curious why you have never built a 16 valve motor? Too much wiring and plumbing for the mpi? They seem to be the hot ticket for samurai's around here.

Good question Elburrobigzook...

    When I started with the original project the 1.6 16 valve wasn't out and the 1.6 8 valve was really hard to get and very expensive, so I started with the 1.3 8 valves from the Metro's. The 1.3 16valve was a bunch heavier (about 30lbs if I remember) and made peak power way too high to make the prop effective with out extreme reductions and associated power loss.
    The goals were a little lower back then too 80-85hp |removethispart|@ 6000rpm / 90-95 ft lb torque |removethispart|@ 4500rpm. I felt that by starting with the 1300 most of the development would transfer to the 1600 when they became available, and for the most part (headers, ignition and intake) I seem to have been right.
    When the 16/16v came out I took a hard look at it, good engine but...
- about 20lbs heavier
- All the injection and computer wiring would make install
 tough and heavier
- Wasn't alot of great info around on performance data.
So I stayed the course.
    It's been quite a hobby so far about 12 years) and began with the idea of putting it in an aircraft a freind and I were building (I'm also a pilot). I looked at what another company was recommending for aircraft applications and really did not like what I saw so I went my own way.
     The 1300 never went in the airplane, but we built a Gen 2 turbo 3 cylinder that did...mistake, it was waaaay heavier than the 1.3 or 1.6 by the time all systems were installed. It did perform great, but was damaged in an soft field landing due to a nose gear failure. The install was also extremely complex with all the computer related wiring.
    The airplane is almost rebuilt now so I am looking at the airboat engine with an eye to maybe going that way this time. Thats one of the reasons that the engine is built with so many internal strenghting mods. But unless it is absolutely bullet proof it won't happen.

    Interesting stuff that's come out of the project
- Dual crank fire ignition, (2) completely independent
 direct fire ignition systems on one engine. Works great.
- Dual Carb system, compact and works really well now
 that it's sorted.
- redrive and mount system.

    The 16/16v is on my radar for down the road but it really needs TPI to work well. The stock system is too complex and SDS has a great system but I think it's expensive. Plus I've got to finish:
- The airboat engine, and have some fun
- The rag top for my daughter (she's 14 I've only got 2
  years)
- I've just started my own business and that as you can
 guess is a time killer.
- We also just had the pleasure of a new born son

So many projects...so little time

post some pics of the airplane.

Sure I think i've still got pictures of the airplane with the 1.0 turbo in it and I've got some pictures of the 1.6 being built...I'll try to do that tonight after we finish working on the engine.

Zag

sweet

Zaggy, you mentioned maybe doing a build with a lightened flywheel on the 1.3. It reminded me of something I was told once. You  can use the 1.3 flywheel on the 1.6 as it is a lighter wheel but still fine on the 1.6 even for offroad work. Would help get some throttle response. Depending on your needs and what accessories you are running you could also look at underdrive pulleys. Adam on this site does nice work http://www.occracing.com/pricing.htm and he might be able to give you some pointers too.

Thanks for the tip CJ
    I run a very custom flywheel that is heavily lightened and machined to accept a belt drive. Then add a 15lb propellor at a 2.222:1 ratio to mess up all that hard work. I machined a set of under drive pulleys that reduces the speed at the alternator and water pump to keep tham from over speeding, but now I know someone out there is doing it next time I'll just buy them.
    The engine comes off tonight and I've ordered a cam, I'll post back here the results. Meantime I've promiised some pictures so I will post them here as soon as I get a chance.

Thanks guys
Zag

How are you turnin a prop 6000 rpm??? what psru are you using.

Thanks
Wayne

The prop doesn't turn 6000rpm. I use a psru that I designed, it uses a gates polychain belt, 11.25 offset and a 2.222:1 ratio.
    So in the end the engine turns 6000 rpm but the prop only turns 2700rpm.
    The hardest part of building the psru was working out the math and the forces on the upper spindle are wild. When you work out the centrifical force from the rpm, add a maximum 4g bump/turning load factor, the spinning prop creates 2894 pound of torque loading (approx I'm going from memory), now ad a minimum 50% safety factor. It's mean.
    You need to keep the prop speed to a max of .78 mach tip speed to maintian efficency so thats why the psru.
    Remember all that high school math we thought we ould never use...I found a use for it.

Thanks Zag

You might give Hawk or Trail tough a call on the 16 valve wiring when you get ready to take that step. They make custom harnesses to go into the samurai. I cant see it being alot more difficult to make a universal harness. I have driven a sami with the 16 valve that had a 1.3l flywheel. Man o man that thing revved right now! I think there rev limiter is t 6,500 rpm though. If you use the facotry computer that is. I know I have had a couple 1.3's up to 8,000 before. Though not for more than a couple seconds.