its been a long day,, I left the plugs undone when i was troubleshooting earlyer today, got them plugged in now,
restarted the engine still starts up and gos to 2500rpm then dies unless i give it fuel running a little rough no check engine light on. pulling my hair out  What to do now???

The 2500 RPM sounds pretty normal.  It is going to idle high, until the engine gets warmed up.
The dying issue sounds like it could be a fuel problem (maybe the fuel pressure regulator) or a sensor that isn't adjusted correctly (maybe the TPS).
Can you download an FSM (factory service manual) from suzukiinfo.com?  They are big files (several megs), so you need a high speed connection.  An FSM will have all the troubleshooting and testing procedures you will need.
For the rough running.  You could pull the plug wires individually start the engine and see if it runs any differently.  If it doesn't, then whatever plug wire is off at the time will tell you what cylinder has the problem.  Could be a valve, or valves, that aren't adjusted correctly, could be a bad plug or plug wire, could be the cylinder itself (like the rings aren't sealing correctly), could be an injector that isn't working right (make sure all the plugs are plugged in securely to them).

I tried pulling the plug wires one at a time on Sunday and there is not a real big difference in the way it runs. Can't really tell that the wire is disconnected..??  Is there any differences in the intake from one engine to new next?? as far as ports lining up?

I tried pulling the plug wires one at a time on Sunday and there is not a real big difference in the way it runs. Can't really tell that the wire is disconnected..??  Is there any differences in the intake from one engine to new next?? as far as ports lining up?

There shouldn't be any difference, as far as the ports lining up, between the 96 and yours.

when i get home i will to spray some starting fluid around the intake to see if it is sucking air somewhere. Also got some die electrod grease to put on the connectors. Got new cap rotor wires and plugs on order. (one good thing is that the new block sounds good does not have a knock never know what your getting when you buy used)

Definately sucking air. I got to looking and the intake gasket that came of of the old engine is metal and the one i put on was paper can this be right or did i get wrong part??? I am going to take off tonight can i just use sensor save silicone??

your not referring to using silicone on a intake are you? have faith in clean,true surfaces and just use proper gasket. silicone is not designed to work around gasoline.

Got the intake off WRONG gasket your right I will order new gasket. I'm i BFE and it takes forever to get parts.
Hopefully this will fix my idle also??

Definately sucking air. I got to looking and the intake gasket that came of of the old engine is metal and the one i put on was paper can this be right or did i get wrong part??? I am going to take off tonight can i just use sensor save silicone??

The metal ones are OEM type gaskets.  They say the metal ones are better.  I have ran both paper and metal and haven't had any issues with either.
I have used silicone/RTV on one of my samurai intake manifolds...worked fine...still working fine....but you (and I) really should use a gasket.  It was one of those "temporary fixes" that has turned into a not-so-temporary fix.

Got the intake off WRONG gasket your right I will order new gasket. I'm i BFE and it takes forever to get parts.
Hopefully this will fix my idle also??

What gasket did you get originally?
Yeah, getting rid of the air leak should definitely help (or fix completely) the idle issue.

Paper gasket and all the studs lined up with the holes and the coolant hole was lining up. I had so much stuff going on trying to get it back together that i did not notice that the new gasket had round holes and the head-intake are more of a rounded triangle. It was sucking air on all cylinders on the top. It must be hard to find the right gasket it took my buddy at the parts store 1/2 hour to find the correct one. I took the oem one into him. I hope I can get the intake back on it is really challenging getting to the nuts on the bottom.
I feel better now knowing what is wrong.

Paper gasket and all the studs lined up with the holes and the coolant hole was lining up. I had so much stuff going on trying to get it back together that i did not notice that the new gasket had round holes and the head-intake are more of a rounded triangle. It was sucking air on all cylinders on the top. It must be hard to find the right gasket it took my buddy at the parts store 1/2 hour to find the correct one. I took the oem one into him. I hope I can get the intake back on it is really challenging getting to the nuts on the bottom.
I feel better now knowing what is wrong.

Hmm.  What was the brand and part number on the wrong one you had initially? 
The correct gasket shouldn't be hard at all to find.....94 sidekick, 16V engine, intake manifold gasket.

Not sure part # i took the package back to him every gasket that he came up with was round holed. Had to go to the internet and look it up then had to convert oem part # over to CAR QUEST # even try looking up tracker and that did not work. he was looking at 16v but I think it must have been for a 8v??? The one we ordered had a picture and looks right.

Not sure part # i took the package back to him every gasket that he came up with was round holed. Had to go to the internet and look it up then had to convert oem part # over to CAR QUEST # even try looking up tracker and that did not work. he was looking at 16v but I think it must have been for a 8v??? The one we ordered had a picture and looks right.

Wow, if their system is anything like the website, I bet it is a PITA to find anything.  Their website is terrible for trying to look up parts.  Now I know why I used Advance, Autozone and Oreillys.
I am pretty sure an 8V gasket won't even bolt up....the bolt spacing is wrong.

Got all the parts and got them put on last night New intake gasket (right one) and cap rotor wires and plugs.
Got it all together and it fired idled at about 200 rpm for about 3 seconds then died. I checked and double checked all my connections and hoses and tried to start again with no luck just turns over will no try to start. I can hear my fuel pumps working so it should be getting fuel and i have spark then i thought my timing was off so i messed with that for a while with no luck (the engine manual shows the screws on the distibutor and #1 in different spot) finally i put the plug wires back to where they were still no luck checked the main wiring harness again and tried to start and after cranking on it for over 5 seconds it fired and started running runs good idles about 1000rpm and sound good.
Before i started this engine project every once in a while it would not start and i would have to cycle the ignition a dozen times and it would start up i always thought it was my fuel pump relay starting to go but i am not sure now because this time i could hear my pump running. I would feel better if i knew for sure what the problem was..Check it this morning and fired right up. no CEL

Cool.  Sounds like it's running good.
For the occasional no start issue.  It could be, or could have been, a bad wiring connection at the starter (the wire going to the starter solenoid may not have been on good), or the solenoid could have been sticking a little bit.  I have had to take the starters apart before, clean them up, lightly lube the solenoid, and reassemble.  After that, I haven't ever had a problem with the starter not wanting to work.