hello everyone i am new to this site and i just purchased my first sammi!!! i bougt one with a ford 5.0 with the tranny, but the transfer case and axles are all stock. i was wondering what your thought are on the drive train? can i get by with stock axle housing and just uprgrade my axles or do i have too much hp& tourque. btw it has 33x12.50 maxxis mudders right now with a homemade 6" lift (the lift will def be placed once i get everything running good)

It depends on how you plan on driving it.  If you drive it like a fool, then you will break stuff.  If you use some common sense, then you will more that likely be ok (at least have a better chance than the alternative).

mainly mud riding, just wanted some input on ways i could beef it up with stock axle housings?

stock as in Toyota mini truck.

You will soon find out that you have not got enough axle in it. Not even close.
Just the added weight allone in the front is a problem. Plus with 4 or 5 times stock HP and torque. Your done.
Don't waist money on the Zuke axles.
 My best advice is.---- Here it comes.--- NOT TOYOTAS....Let the hate mail begin....
Find a set of 71 to 75 stock CJ5 axles. Same width, same bolt pattern, designed to handle the HP and torque, frame width is very close, every gear set known to man. Stock high steer, same geometry.
I could go on but I think you get the idea.
 Look on Craig's list . Easy to find....I  recommend converting the fronts to disk brake, but other than that it's a no brainier of a conversion....Boxcar...

CJ5 axles?  I don't think that it would be worth the work to swap in a Dana 30 in the front.  The Dana 44 in the back would be ok.  Some Toyota FJ axles would probably be a better swap if your looking for something close to stock width that you can find in a junk yard.

Toyota mini-truck is the easiest and has the most parts available for the swap.  I have found that when it comes to doing an axle swap find a set of axles, then plan on spending an additional $1000 to perform the swap.  Yes, it can be done cheaper, but if you have a k set aside then you can cover the little things you always end up needing.  Like new bearings, rebuild kit, custom drivelines, etc.

I looked at upgrading to Toy axles and at first the price seems reasonable, untill you add in new wheels and all the rest of the little things, and then you have to scrounge around for the axles and around these parts Toy axles are hard to come by even in the salvage yards without having to hand over your first male child as well the premium prices....LOL I can take a drive and see at least a dozen or so heeps in various stages of disrepair behind barns and in fields, but no Toys or zuk's to be seen.

Are you kidding?
 The D-30 will Hold up fine to the weight, torque , and hp , that the PO is talking about.
It was designed into it.
Unlike the Yota , the cj was delivered with a v8 .
 In a Zuke with a 5.0 (305) and 33s , you will be on the low side of the design parameters of the stock 74 CJ5 5.0 (304) - 29s..
 The D-30 is a much maligned (undeserving so ) axle. Millions were produced and millions are still on the road .
In rigs with much higher requirements than the PO requires.
The list is long and venerable. CJ's, Wagoneers, Some with the legendairy 401 monster behind them.
 
Mine...
The Scout. Bronco, Jeep J-Trucks, ETC .ETC. ETC.
 Due to this reason allone . Parts are readily available for this axle.
And the 44 ? Can you say VIPER v10?? Vett. Jeep, Ford, Chevy, Isuzu, Cornbinder, ETC. ETC.
 While the Toyota is a good axle . Especially the early FJ s. It is a much more costly conversion. And doesn't have the track record of the Dana units....JMHO....Boxcar...

I agree with Boxcar.... CJ 5-7  axles were produced to handle a V8 and you have upgrade options available. They are similar to the OEM Zuk setup in design. While I was purchasing these I would by the CJ springs as well and do the spring over using them. These would be a pretty tuff set up if you slide a locker to compliment them.

I don't believe the stock Toy axles will withstand the HP transfer the 5.0  is going to place to them. If they do then the yoke / u-joints will puke.  

Good point. Tux.
 The PO will end up with as close to a direct swap as is available in a non Zuke axle.
 Not to mention , Many of the early 70 s 44 and 30 axles came factory equip ed with Detroit's.
We have been ignoring the T case though...I'm a little worried about that.
 Make sure it's not hung on a stock mounting system to start.
I think if I ever decided to do a v8 swap into a Zuke I'd probably spend the $$$$$ on a D-300 with a Novac divorced converter. Just to be safe.....Again . JMHO...
...Boxcar...

Axle swap needed, to save on wheels stay with scout, bronco, jeep 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern .A strong V6 will eat yota axles.

There is a reason why you rebuild a Dana 30 with full Dana 44 outers and chromoly axles.  It's not because the Dana 30 is a bulletproof axle. 

Drone. You've been reading to many magazines.
 I don't ever replace the HIGH STEER 30 outers with 44 knuckles. Why would you???
 As to chrome molly axles, Yea I run them in everything , even my D-60s. again what,s your point???
The 30 in my 475 hp 500 fpt 401 powered Wagoneer  got new Chrome axles last year . Its a 73. Originally a 375 hp 360. That's 33 years on the origanal axles at over 300 hp, in a 5000lb rig . While nothing is bullet proof . THANK GOD IT WAS A D-30, AND NOT A YOTA AXLE... I replaced with chrome because at rebuild I allways do.
Look , if the PO was running 35" tires or larger I'd advise a Ford D-44 High pinion front. But he's not. So why spend the extra $$$$ shortening an axle and converting to pas. drop, as well as high steer...Boxcar...

Actually, I run with a buddy who wheels Jeeps.  And he has had the u-joint blow up with the massive hp of the stock 6cyl and giant 33" tires.  He also destroyed several with the 4cyl.  So it really depends on what sort of wheeling you do.  But he likes the larger u-joints.

A Toyota setup is going to hold up just as well as a 30.  You get the birfields, a third member, and the ring gear just a bit larger.  I like the birfields more then then the u-joint setups for front axles and the third member makes it a lot easier to setup then screwing around with shims.  And both a 30 and Toy are going to cost you around 600 to get chromos in the front end so your not really saving anything.

As for Dana 44's, weigh to much.  But if your adding an additional 200 pounds of motor up front that probably isn't a concern. 

When it comes down to it though, if your trying to save as much money as possible on axles your going to have to keep your options open and hunt through some junk yards.  Both will serve you well.

As for V6's eating up Toyota axles, if your destroying Bobby Longs with a V6 your doing something really wrong or really right with that V6. 

Most people around these parts wheel heeps. Those 6bangers dont make top end whp #'s that much is obvious, but they make a bunch of torque(that is what breaks parts), get into the meat of the torque band and bind a tire up and ping those axles will snap like pretzels.