anyone have the issue that I am having ?, 
my 98 sidekick,2wd,5sp,new tires,stock-63k miles, new struts, w camber bolts/rear shocks
I have base-plates and tow bar, for towing from my rv.
when I tow and make a hard right turn over a dip or rise the front wheels " make a HARD left to right motion and wont stop!", I have to stop and slowly move ahead and everything aligns to go ahead.
in normal driving the thing when I turn l or r hard the wheels almost turn in on their selves, much scuffing on the outside! plowing!
I have had an alignment done, seems ok.
camber-0.2 to 0.5 deg
caster-0.7 to 1.8 deg
toe-.17 to .17 deg -----larry, thanks

I notice you list camber bolts, but there is no mention of any lift...

The stated alignment numbers also seem odd to me - you're specifying a range, rather than a single number - what exactly are the numbers your vehicle is set to - did you get a print out from the alignment shop?

The FSM I have list the following spec.

Camber: 30' +/- 1*
Caster: 1*30' +/- 1*
Toe-in: 2~6mm

thanks for your reply, I do have the read-out from the shop. it says that the fl [drivers side] has a range of 1.5deg to -0.5deg, and the measurement read-out is -0.2deg. the pass.side has the same range and the measurement is -0.5deg for camber
2.5deg to 0.5deg with 0.7deg as the measurement for drivers side and 1.8deg pass side for caster
0.08deg to 0.24deg with 0.17deg for drivers side and 0.17deg for pass side for toe
when I turn the wheel [either way] and stop and get out and look at the front wheels they are very tilted out at the top, so if u look from the front and the wheel is turned to the drivers side, the pass side wheel is turned but also tilted out, seems to be at least 1+-in from vertical. so when I am turning, its the outside of that tire that is scrubbing during the turn.
no lift, but the new shocks are under gas pressure, and the back seems a little higher, orig size tires.
thanks again
larry

Going from memory, it's normal for the top of the tires to be tilted outwards at full lock.

The alignment is, for the most part within specifications, however, the difference in caster between the two sides suggests that something is either worn or bent - what condition are the ball joints in?

Caster is what causes the wheels to self center so the difference in between the two sides may be related to your problem.

thanks, I guess i'll just take it to another shop for their opinion. i'll let u all know.
larry

o.k., I have a new theory on my prob.! since I have looked at the alignment from ackfaq,com., I have determined that maybe my caster problem is related to 1] I have a tow bar on the front end that sticks out a foot and weighs 40-50lbs. and I have new rear shocks [gas pressured] so the weight of the tow-bar[down pressure in the front] & the gas shocks [up pressure in the rear] the caster is too much in the +- from level.[can't remember] the car tilts way forward! so i'll put 100lb in the rear and see how this works when I tow.
what do u all think?
larry

Hey HarpinGeorge,

First off, i know exactly what your talking about. I did the same thing to my weber, and i have the one with the vent hole already drilled in from factory. I had the same vacuum lock on my engine when accelerating. I even went as far as testing the compression (which was low) and rebuilding the entire engine. To date i never did figure out the vacuum lock. I drilled holes in the JB weld and stuck a tube up to get a higher fuel spill level. This returned the performance back to original (now with a brand new rebuild motor) and very slightly helped with the incline flood issue. I have thought about testing some vent lines/caps and doing the Jb weld trick again. To be honest i am also thinking that there maybe an issue with the evap canister somehow not venting. I think a couple mods if i ever do this again would be to try and remove the evap can or swap one with my parts vehicles to see if there is a change. I am hesitating to try and again, though it would be easy and totally reversible (drill and tube). I have 4 trackers now as donor/parts vehicles so i think i may just go with the 1.6l engine swap. I will let you know if i try it again. Glad to see i wasn't the only one with this issue.  Another idea, i have seen some with this mod and they already totally removed the evap canister. The vent then goes to a tube that is run down the side of the wheel down and out. However if i recall i did remove the tube and let the vent breath open and still had the issue. Perhaps one could but a long tube in, drill a small hole though the filter cap and let it totally vent out the top and ad a filter from a riding lawn mower? Hmmm what to do...

attached is a pic of mine, with new motor and vent tube installed. This is the max incline i could go prior to stall out. Interested to keep this thread going to see if anyone has the magic fix. I know we can't be the only one...

-cheers,

Matt