I searched and found a thread awhile back that showed a diagram of a properly installed timing chain and how many chain links should be in between each gear mark. I need it again and can't find it. I've been searching for an hour with no luck. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? 

How about this one?  It's bbzuki's 1.8 liter but the parts are the same.


http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,130985.0.html

 Thanks, I had the service manual info but my cheap-o timing set isn't marked like the book and colored plates were all blue, none yellow. Having close ups to count links is better. Always good to triple check these kinds of situations! 

A lot of the timing sets that aren't of Japanese manufacture don't have the links properly indexed.  A lot of guys won't use the non-Japanese kits to replace their timing chains, gears, tensioners and adjusters.

I used a DNJ kit on mine about 45K miles ago.  Will it last as long as the OEM Japanese kits?  Probably not.  But then I also don't expect the engine to last another 150K without a slight head gasket leak or be in need of a rebuild or replacement.

If I had owned my Tracker since new and I knew the service history, I'd be far more finicky about it and would have opted for the Japanese manufactured timing kits.  About $50 more in price.   As it is, my truck was rode hard and put away wet for its first 81K of life.  I knew this when I bought him.  I worked on getting the internal engine cleaned using Sea Foam, kept regular oil changes, filter changes and perform the maintenance and replacement of components as required, but I have no illusions he will still be running strong at 250K.  If he does... great.  If he doesn't, I won't really be surprised.

Buster will hit 200K within a couple weeks.  He still runs great (knock on wood) but he has developed a leak in the rear crank seal (I believe) which requires about a half pint of oil about every two weeks.  Not a critical fluid loss, but I don't like my stuff to leak at all.  It isn't cost effective (to me) to pull the tranny and fly wheel in order to attempt a repair of this seal.  Especially since the engine has 200K on it and this small leak began shortly after I replaced the clutch (of course!). 

Have you considered the impact of the leak on the clutch?

It's a little late for this, but given the work involved, if I'm going in there to change the clutch, it's clutch plate, clutch disk, release bearing, pilot shaft bearing, rear main seal, and on one of these, the clutch fork.

Yes, I've given that thought, Fordem.  I figure the seal is seeping, maybe a small CL III type leak as it is referred to in the military, and this drop is being spun off the rear end of the crank, in front of where the flywheel is attached.  Most oil ends up on the lower suspension component and sway bar because the physical barrier of the flywheel keeps the oil from making its way to the actual clutch and clutch plate.  When I am parked and idling, it has never left a drop on the driveway to date.  I think the majority of the oil lost is while driving while the engine RPMs are cranked up significantly which increases the internal oil pressure.  The oil probably turns into a mist with the crank RPMs.

I replaced the original clutch with a new Sachs clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and a new pilot bearing when it was changed about 40K miles ago.  I think I reused the original fork... but I may have swapped it with the spare I had on hand, although I don't really remember for sure.  I do know I swapped in my spare 5-speed transmission at that time because I discovered the original 5 speed tranny had a worn input shaft (where it sits inside the pilot bearing) and  probably needed new input shaft bearings as well.  They would have to of been ordered with more down time.  I didn't want to wait another three more days with the truck sitting on the lift awaiting parts, so I just went ahead and installed the newer tranny with about 60K miles on it that I bought off of one of the forum members here about three years ago (Jluck?).  I have since sold the original tranny.  I never thought about the rear seal at that time.  Hindsight.

Sounds like the timing cover seal on my Pajero - I can see the oil being spun onto the filter and adjacent surfaces.  I had a concern about the oil on the timing belt, but it never reaches there it gets thrown off by the crank angle sensor "blade" - the seal is fairly easy to reach, but, the problem is actually a grove in the surface of the crank - I've got a "redi sleeve" that I'm going to install when I get th chance.