I just bought a rust free sammi tub. Not sure of the year but i want to put it on my 88 fram an what not. How hard is somthing like that to do if u never done one. It also came with the fenders hood a new 3 inch body lift for only 200 dollars. Doors. Winsheild an what not. Its a steal of a deal.

Let's be honest, it is a pain in the ass.  Especially if you are swapping years or one tub is wire free.  The easiest way to perform the swap is to pull your dash and all existing wiring then transplant it to your new tub.  Trying to swap just 'what is needed' usually ends up in chasing down electrical gremlins.

You will probably want to pull your drive-train out as well.

Yea i was planning on swapping out the dash an what not cause the tub is just that there is no interior one dash nothing there is no drive train an i would def swap that since my other one is lifted with the oldman emu spring lift has a spooled rear end , 8.1 transfer case gears . The only problem was rott. I was thinkin bout not even using the heater ducts an just makin my own heater core box out of some plywood an dryer hose just to make it easier. Cant wait to get this thing torn apart an what not. An put back together .

Ok so i have started the tub swap . An i am looking at the electical an i was thinking what if i just cut the harness an lable it all then spliced it all together later an sealed it an what not with but connectors. Cut it on the engine side of the fire wall.lable everything an then splice it all together. I think it would be easyier then pulling the harness threw the fire wall. Whatcha think

what would be the point of it? pull it through the wright way and no need to have electrical nightmares later. it would take alot longer to cut and splice than pull them through. I am not seeing a advantage what so ever to cutting.

Ok so i have started the tub swap . An i am looking at the electical an i was thinking what if i just cut the harness an lable it all then spliced it all together later an sealed it an what not with but connectors. Cut it on the engine side of the fire wall.lable everything an then splice it all together. I think it would be easyier then pulling the harness threw the fire wall. Whatcha think

Honestly....stupid idea.
Pull the harness the right way.  It isn't hard to do, especially if you have the dash out.  The dash isn't hard to pull, if you don't have it out yet.

Yea i got the dash out an i have the old clip an fenders off almost having a problem with the screws on the inside of the door james im jut gona sawzall them off or grin them off. But  ill probable just lable everything an full it threw . Atleast u guys arent scared to call me a dumb ass

Operation tub swap is going im probably 1/4 of the way there.  Got the engin all un hooked an the fenders an old clip off. Tomorrow after work im gonna get underneth an see what needs to be un hooked from there. Exhaust an what not. If anyone knows any thing that would be helpfull or use full just let me know. The harness was alot easyier then i had once thout it was gonna be. I dont even know if im gonna use the dash or not. I probably will but id rather just use a sheet metal skin ill get to that later. thinkin bout pulling the head while im here cause the motor smokes. The only problem is that the motor has great compresion 140 lbs across the board so im thinking the vavle seaps might be shoot on the head . Since the motor did sit for 5 years with out running.  It runns great now just smokes

More pics

So its been a year an I just started finishing what I started . Nothing went the way I wanted but what ever did all the break lines an fiberglassed the body on the underside still got to do the fiberglass on the inside but it will be fine for now.so last weekend I started putting the new body on the frame stripped the frame of old breaks an fuel lines an ran new break lines. I'm not running any new fuel lines since my old tank rotted an I'm just gonna put a fuel cell in behind the drivers seat.. so I'm thinking I can eliminate the charcoal canister an all the other vapor lines an what not. I bought a set of the rockyroad poly mounts but decided not to use them an I just did a 2 inch body lift instead. So if u guys know any one who needs a poly kit I'm looking to trade  an add cash for a top looking for either the wind hammer an taho cover. Or a sprinter top. I'd really like a removable hard top but I can't find one anywhere. But any way some pictures

An more

It's coming along!

Operation tub swap is going im probably 1/4 of the way there.  Got the engin all un hooked an the fenders an old clip off. Tomorrow after work im gonna get underneth an see what needs to be un hooked from there. Exhaust an what not. If anyone knows any thing that would be helpfull or use full just let me know. The harness was alot easyier then i had once thout it was gonna be. I dont even know if im gonna use the dash or not. I probably will but id rather just use a sheet metal skin ill get to that later. thinkin bout pulling the head while im here cause the motor smokes. The only problem is that the motor has great compresion 140 lbs across the board so im thinking the vavle seaps might be shoot on the head . Since the motor did sit for 5 years with out running.  It runns great now just smokes

I too have 140 psi comperssion on all 4 cylenders. But what Im told from several shops (T.T. included) is that avrage is 170 psi! & anything under 150 means your motor needs rebuilt.........   

Holy shnikies batman, I got all the harness hooked up now to the best of my memory an notes an tape clusters an markings. Before I do dash an interior an what notim gonna try an start it. If its all the way it was last year it should start just fine. I'm using a boat fuel cell for the time being so I'm thinking I just need one fuel line an I should be able to plug the rest off if I'm not mistaken . It is a self venting fuel cell. So with that being said do I need the charcoal canister at all ?. I'm also eliminating the old heater system. I'm not sure exactly what I'm gonna do . For now I'm just gonna loop it threw the body with hose an coper tube. I'll figure out heat at another time case it def will be needed.ill probably just make a sheetmetal box with a hole on it an run a heatercore threw it an use a GM mouse wheel there very cheap an blow like a bastard. All well. Just got to Roy le check grounds an wire in the lights front and back. Also need a distributed cap. But its like 70 % probably. But here's some pictures I like the stance it has . I think I could run 32 inch tires .I have 30 right now an the other picture is a question really. Do I need these for it to run. One is the.charcoal can . Idk what the other is.

The way it sits