Hi everyone,
A few months ago I bought my dream car - an old Suzuki SJ413 (1985). They were similar (if not identical) to the Samurai in the US. She was a bit dirty and needed some cosmetic work, but everything was running fine. One thing that didn't work was the horn. After checking fuses and the horn, and spending hours tracing wires, I finally found that it was the horn button itself (on the steering wheel). The contacts had corroded so badly that no connection was being made. I sanded them down, and things were good as new. Feeling quite proud I went for a little victory drive.

The next morning, the car had no juice at all. Completely dead when I turned the key. I figured I must have done something while trying to troubleshoot the horn and must've drained the battery overnight (I was sure to leave all wires/connections as I found them though). I tried to charge the battery with no luck, so I bought a new battery. Still no luck.

I've read some forums talking about replacing the fusible link from the battery. So I did that. No luck. I should have probably looked a little closer, because the existing fusible link A) had a fuse that was still intact, and B) it connected to a wire that doesn't go to the alternator. In fact when I trace the red wire it connects to, it goes through the firewall, behind the dash, and simply ends - it's not connected to anything!

On first glance the wires coming from the Alternator all look in tact. I may be crazy, but it doesn't look like any of them run directly to the battery.

This is a pretty old machine and it's becoming apparent the wiring is a little hacked together. I'm ok with tools and troubleshooting, but not really an electronics specialist. Does anyone have any idea on why I'm getting no electrical power at all? (no lights, instrument lights, horn etc).

Battery is still showing 12-13V, all fuses look ok, I changed the fusible link.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Check the battery negative - that should be connected to both the body and the bellhousing.

You can also head over to Ack's FAQ and download a wiring diagram, it won't be identical, but it'll be close enough to point you in the right direction.

X 1, got to be a ground problem.

Ben there and done that, ground wire from battery to fire wall broke and I had nada.  Hope it's that simple for you.

Thanks, I'll check the ground wires when I get home. Hopefully that resolves it.

Adding a heavy ground wire from the motor to the frame also helps.

Checked the grounds at the frame and to the bell housing. Both are good.
I'm still stumped, so I've called an auto electrician for back-up. I'll let everyone know the verdict.

Get yourself a meter or test light, connect one lead to the chassis and start at the battery positive - if you're using a lamp it should light, the meter should show close to 12V, if it doesn't you have a ground issue.  From there probe the alternator output post, you should again have power, if not, the fusible link or the wiring associated with it is broken.

When you state that there is no power do you mean that the starter will not turn over or that there is zero power to the entire vehicle?  As in no headlights, no radio, nothing.

Get yourself a meter or test light

X2

Quote from: fordem on October 30, 2012, 02:54:19 PM

Get yourself a meter or test light

X2

Both!

Then install new ground wires (4-6GA) between the engine, frame, battery, and body. The entire 410/413 line is notorius for developing bad grounds. I chose a single spot in the firewall and used it like a ground bus. My ground leads are:
B- to Starter
B- to Firewall
Alt to Firewall
Starter (GND) to Frame
Frame to Firewall