What do you use and how has it held up and what do you use your Zuk for ?

                                  Ed

If you have the proper gearing, so you don't have to slip and burn your clutch, then a stock type one will work fine.

I have 5.71's and 31" tires and it's still not low enough. When I pull the trans to put the new clutch in I'll install the new 4.24 gears into the transfercase... Hopefully that will help 


                             Ed

I have 5.71's and 31" tires and it's still not low enough. When I pull the trans to put the new clutch in I'll install the new 4.24 gears into the transfercase... Hopefully that will help 


                             Ed

5.71s?  I've never heard of that ratio...are you sure that is right?

Have fun.  I am picking up my clutch kit in the morning...I just got done removing all my skidplates and driveshafts (and draining the t-case to remove the front shaft).  I'm going with a stock replacement, but getting the 16v type clutch since it is a little bigger than an 8v type clutch.  From the info I've gathered here (from Skyhiranger-thanks) the 8v clutch is 7-7/8" and the 16v is 8.5".
I'm also planning on getting a new case with the 4.24 set up already, so it should be better on my clutch in low range

Have fun.  I am picking up my clutch kit in the morning...I just got done removing all my skidplates and driveshafts (and draining the t-case to remove the front shaft).  I'm going with a stock replacement, but getting the 16v type clutch since it is a little bigger than an 8v type clutch.  From the info I've gathered here (from Skyhiranger-thanks) the 8v clutch is 7-7/8" and the 16v is 8.5".
I'm also planning on getting a new case with the 4.24 set up already, so it should be better on my clutch in low range

The OPs clutch should already be the 8.5" clutch, since he has a 4 door (guessing it is newer than 91, so he should have the 16V engine with the bigger clutch already).
If you don't want to have to drain the tcase, you can just unbolt the driveshaft from the front third and keep the driveshaft in the tcase.  But probably wouldn't hurt to change the tcase oil, if it hasn't ever been done, or if it has been awhile.
And most trackicks don't have skidplates, so most people don't have to worry about removing them either.

Yeah didn't want to mess with the extra weight of it dangling there.  I had it flushed out last August with all the other fluids...so I'm just gonna put it back in the case.  Should be getting a new case soon anyways. 
Funny thing is, I started to pull on the front shaft and it acted spring-loaded...so I figured it was best to look it up in my FSM and see if I was overlooking something.  Good thing I did, because if I had just pulled it out, I would have gotten covered in that stinky crap!
Forgot we were talking about a 4dr here, so yes, he'd have the larger one.
I just picked up mine today, it is made by Sachs.  Full kit with disc/pressure plate/pilot and throwout bearings and adjustment tool.  "Limited Lifetime" warranty.

   Yes the ratio is 5.71, the highest ratio you an get in toyota diff's....


                                       Ed

   Yes the ratio is 5.71, the highest ratio you an get in toyota diff's....


                                       Ed

Ahh, ok.  I was thinking trackick axle ratios.

I bought a centerforce II to replace the clutch so Im going to be yanking the trans this week to do the clutch and xfercase gears....

                                               Ed