Out of town and discovered the rgt frt (pass) CV axle
outer boot is toast. And for awhile too.

Axle is cheap ($50 at NAPA) but I am without my manual.

Does anyone have instructions and what tools I need to R&R
the axle??

I understand the passenger is easier than the drivers???
So I've been told...

Thanks in advance

is it the front

You need:
12 mm wrench or short 1/4" drive 12 mm socket to remove 4wd hub.  (Not the lock out plate.)
An external snap ring pliers, to remove snap ring from outer axle shaft after removing the 4wd hub.  (Snap ring can be tough to get off, use good snap ring pliers.)  There is a 1/8" ring inside the snap ring, remove it.
14 mm wrenches to remove 3 nuts & bolts from inner CV/inner axle.

Then turn steering wheel hard left (may need someone to sit/stand on bumper to squish springs slightly) and pull the CV shaft out.

NEW CV joints do not tend to last as long as old factory CV joints.  Not sure about New Factory joints.  You can get CV boot repair kits (messy) and reuse your old CV.

Reverse the process.

You need:
12 mm wrench or short 1/4" drive 12 mm socket to remove 4wd hub.  (Not the lock out plate.)
An external snap ring pliers, to remove snap ring from outer axle shaft after removing the 4wd hub.  (Snap ring can be tough to get off, use good snap ring pliers.)  There is a 1/8" ring inside the snap ring, remove it.
14 mm wrenches to remove 3 nuts & bolts from inner CV/inner axle.

Then turn steering wheel hard left (may need someone to sit/stand on bumper to squish springs slightly) and pull the CV shaft out.

NEW CV joints do not tend to last as long as old factory CV joints.  Not sure about New Factory joints.  You can get CV boot repair kits (messy) and reuse your old CV.

Reverse the process.

Good instructions.............For the drivers side.   

Out of town and discovered the rgt frt (pass) CV axle
outer boot is toast. And for awhile too.

Axle is cheap ($50 at NAPA) but I am without my manual.

Does anyone have instructions and what tools I need to R&R
the axle??

I understand the passenger is easier than the drivers???
So I've been told...

Thanks in advance

No, the drivers side is easier than the passengers side.

There are a couple of ways to remove the passengers side.
First....
You may want to either drain the diff gear oil, or park with the passengers side uphill a little, otherwise a little gear oil may run out of the axle housing, when you pull the axleshaft out.
Remove the locking hub using a 12mm wrench on the 6 bolts that hold it to the wheel hub.
Remove the snap ring and washer from the end of the axleshaft.
Take the balljoint loose from the a-arm using 17mm (I think) wrenches on the 3 bolts/nuts.
I think you may have to slide the axleshaft out of the knuckle/spindle a little bit, so you can remove all the balljoint bolts (been awhile since I've done one).
If you had to pull the axleshaft out of the knuckle/spindle a little, to get the BJ bolts out, push the axleshaft back into the knuckle, as far as it will go.
Pull out on the knuckle far enough that you can pop the axleshaft out of the axle housing, by using a large flat screwdriver inbetween the axlehousing and the axle CV joint.
Once the axleshaft is removed from the diff, you should be able to move it around, so it will clear the front axle housing and pull the other end of the shaft out of the knuckle/spindle.
 
Second...
This way isn't really a good way to do it, but it is an option.  It involves disconnecting the whole axle assembly.
Drain the front axle gear oil.
Remove the 3 bolts from the drivers side axleshaft (14mm wrenches).
Remove the 3 bolts from the passengers side axle hanger (14mm wrench/socket).
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the diff support to the crossmember (14mm socket).
Remove the 4 driveshaft bolts (14mm wrenches).  Then make sure the driveshaft doesn't fall/pull out of the tcase.
Remove the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the drivers side axle drop bracket to the axle housing (14mm wrench).
Pop the passengers side axle out of the axle housing by using a large flat screwdriver inbetween the end of the axle housing and the CV joint.
Push the whole axle housing as far to the drivers side as you can and pull the axle out of the axle housing.
Remove passengers side hub (12mm wrench).
Remove snap ring and washer from the end of the axleshaft.
Remove axle from knuckle/spindle.

I started to reply, went back and reread his question and still wrote it wrong.  I just installed a stub axle so I can run both drivers sides, but haven't ran it yet. 

I have had to drop the diff all the way to ground using second method.  Have to be careful when lowering diff and removing axle stub so diff is not hanging on axle seal.  (Not as much an issue with aluminum diff.)

thanks guys....... I will drain the differential. New fluids
aren't a bad idea anyway. I have most the tools I need
here and only need to pick up the snap ring pliers. Having
an extra isn't bad back at the shop.