The rear drums on my 86 samurai will not come off.  I have soaked them with penetrating oil, beat on them, loosened the parking brake cable... no luck.  I do not have the special tool described in the service manual.  Is there a trick I don't know about or do I need to fabricate a jig to fit my bearing puller?

If they not have holes drilled and tapped to push against the axel flange , just screw a couple bolts  in there and pop it off .
If no holes to use, then get out your acetylene torch and heat the drum up around the center of the hub it will release.  might hafta rap it a few with a hammer

There are a couple of ways. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the the wheel to the axle. Leave the tire on for leverage and rock the tire from side to side and top to bottom. Try this way 1st to see if it works or you will end up having to buy a slide hammer puller.

Here is what the FSM suggests. Have used this method and works well.

I'd be careful using a torch near the wheel cylinders. Them seals won't like it.

Got it!  I bolted a piece of steel across the pattern and used a bearing slide hammer.  It still took some serious blows with a 10lb hammer on the outside and center of the wheel.  The drum rusts to the center section.

I had the same issues when I replaced a left wheel cylinder (Froze).
Now, I am a firm believer in "Never Seeze".  I have it everywhere, on my ears, face,nose, croach of my pants,
and plenty on brake parts to keep them from "Welding" together so the next time, MAYBE things will come apart.

CAPT

LOL,, I use several containers a year of anti-sieze, EVERY nut and bolt that is external and exposed to the elements gets slathered with the stuff.

You should see and hear the cries and yells from tool turners when they see me apply a light coating of anti-sieze to tapered ball joints, tie rod ends etc, LOL they scream and hollar, "that aint right!!!", "it's gonna just spin" and then they see it go together without issues, and more importantly come apart a year later with absolutely no cursing or smashed fingers/knuckles etc. LOL,,,btw if the ball joint is loose enough to spin while tightening then it should be replaced regardless if anti-sieze is applied or not.