Try plugging it with finger, thumb, to see if it is leaking through.  My COLD IDLE went from 1700-1800 to 900 when I replaced the cracked solenoid.  If your motor returns to just slightly higher idle when warm, but very much higher when COLD, it has to be in the cold air system.  You could have an air leak somewhere, but that should increase idle all the time.  It does not take much to break those solenoids.  A small speck of dirt cam cause them to not fully close to.

Thanks BRD HNTR I'll be trying it out sometime.  The thing that is on my mind lately is that I have adjusted the cold idle screw all the way out, so it doesn't ever touch the cold idle vacuum kicker.  So whether or not that vacuum diaphragm is pulled in or out, the screw does not touch it, so it's racking my brain how it still has a high cold idle when the screw is adjusted all the way out that it can't even touch the cold idle kicker.  It's sat overnight and I won't drive it to school today so by the time I get home it will be cold enough to start.  If I can't figure it out it will go to the shop...along with having the clutch checked out.  I still need to replace that distributor seal.

You know there are 2 idle screws right?
one on the kicker and another on the throttle body bell crank

Wild

Yeah, there are two screws, the cold idle (on the kicker) and the warm idle, on the throttle "pulley" (is that what you mean by bell crank?)

Just below the TBI there is an electrical connection with 4 wires, 2 wires go to two different solenoids/actuators.   Disconnect the connector.  One of the devices should be for air injection, and I do not recall what the other one does.  It should run a little richer, because the air injector is not connected (but it is not injecting air either).  If this works, either buy the parts, run with the connectors off, or cut the wires to the air injector and run with the other one connected.

I ran a couple of months with the connector off.  Mileage did drop from 22 indicated to 20 indicated. 

Reviving this dead post from last month or so...
Any new suggestions?  I've tried everything with those vacuum caps, removing them does not change the high cold idle whatsoever.  Wondering if anyone has any new thoughts on this...otherwise I give up and pay my mechanic friend to figure this out because I don't like having the "automatic cruise control" in the morning for the first 5-10 minutes of driving...

Some good tips & tests here:

http://www.kick-fix.com/IDLE-AIR/Bad-Idle-Index.html