I want to replace the front wheel bearings on my Sidekick Sport.  There are two separate bearings, an inner and an outer bearing.  Low Range shows what looks like a single bearing package.  One of the generic local parts houses shows single bearing / race sets and a what looks like the bearing that Low Range offers.  I looked in the Suzuki parts catalog and it shows two bearings as well. 

Is the single bearing a sealed bearing and the other option is to use traditional inner and outer open bearings with races?

I want to replace the front wheel bearings on my Sidekick Sport.  There are two separate bearings, an inner and an outer bearing.  Low Range shows what looks like a single bearing package.  One of the generic local parts houses shows single bearing / race sets and a what looks like the bearing that Low Range offers.  I looked in the Suzuki parts catalog and it shows two bearings as well.  What should I be looking for?

You know, this was something I struggled with for some time. I swear that when I first started wheeling and fixing my '89 Sidekick, it had two separate bearings and races in the hub. Solid axle swap and several years later when I'm working on my ZWC racing Sidekick, I could not find the same setup. Every hub I tore apart, and believe me it was A lot had the two bearings sharing a single race. So that's what I went with. It's not preloaded like you may think a two bearing two race setup is so definitely follow the manual, eventhough it seems weird.

So, two bearings w/one race...

Hope that helps. -Eric

Thanks Eric. 

How do you know that those bearings are worn out that need to be replaced?
Thanks,

Like any other bearing, you'll hear & feel it - they will typically moan or howl with the vehicle in motion, and the pitch of the noise can be varied by rocking the steering to cause the load on the wheels to change.

If you'd like to check yours, jack the car up until the wheel is several inches off the ground and place on jack stands - spin the wheel, there should be no "rumbly, grumbly" noises, there may be some drag and rubbing because of the disk pads - next grab the wheel at the top & bottom (12:00 & 6:00 O'clock) and try to rock it, there should be no play, do the same at the 3:00 & 9:00 O'clock positions - if there is play at both 6:00 & 12:00 and 3:00 & 9:00, you most likely have worn bearings, play at 3:00 & 9:00 without play at 6:00 & 12:00 will typically be worn steering linkages, play at 6:00 & 12:00 without play at 3:00 & 9:00 is likely to be the ball joint (this can be very hard to detect) or in the strut.

I could feel a slight grumble when turning the wheel, so I checked it again with the caliper removed.  I had a bad spot on the outer race.  I had previously ordered the seals when RockAuto had them on sale for under $2. 

I was lucky to find a piece of .25 inch wall tubing to cut a few inches off to support the hub while pressing out the old race.  I took 5 thousandths off of the old race and used it to press in the new race.  I had to set the lathe to its slowest rpm and feed rate, using a carbide insert for the cut.  I will keep the turned down race for the next time.

It looks very difficult to find the replacements.
Yes, during the regular engine oil change at the garage, they put it on the lift and I always try to grab each of the front wheels with my both hands to feel the play. But I don't feel it and hear the noise when spin it.

Do you think they have anything to do with the front differential oil we put in to the proper level and with regular change to have last longer?

You have mentioned about the seals, what do they look like?

Thank you both for sharing this.

You can get replacements from local parts houses or order them online.  The differential oil has no contact with the wheel bearings.  If you spend a lot of time in the mud, it is best to check the bearings more frequently.

I replaced my worn hub assemblies with replacement hub assemblies from Rockauto, already pressed with a new seal in place as well.   

I found a used hub locally for very cheap so I bought it and had new race, bearing and seals installed in it and just swapped everything out in about an hour.  I will use that hub when I replace the other side in a couple weeks.

This is an edited pic of the bearing race I turned down to press out my old race.  Cheap bearings are available from local stock, but I didn't want Chinese bearings and had to wait a day.

I found these on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NSK-Wheel-Bearing-0926941001/391586676810?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc45b04c6917845ad97b74570cf48c454%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D261654401583
Do they fit the Sport?

I believe the bearings are the same for Sport and non Sport.

Thanks for sharing it.

If I have the solution,I will tell you immediately!
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