went ahead and invested in the Haynes manuals for the Geo's. soaking up all the knowledge that i can before i try and change my first clutch.  reading Thur the manual it talks about blocking the motor  behind the distributor so the motors doesn't hit the firewall... Question is do you really gotta go that?    i was hoping to unhook all the lines, take off starter, remove driveshafts and the cross member and it would be relatively easy. 

I replaced mine last winter, I used a jack under the engine to hold it in place, that way I was able to raise or lower the rear of the engine to help line up the transmition as I slid it back in.

last i had to do a tranny i found it easy to throw a 2x4 across the fenders, then a ratchet strap around the engine at the rear, the ratchet strap lets you have a bit of movement (if it needs to me moved down, left, right, up, it can me moved.

but then again that was a firefly... but I've done the same idea (chain instead of a ratchet strap) on a full size diesel ford

i just used a jack under the motor and just a little peice of 2x4 behind the distributor just in case.. motor didnt move at all and was fairly easy fitting the tranny back in.. not a tuff job at all took me about a day to do it with no help.

And you don't need to remove the tranny completely (as far as actually dropping it out of the vehicle).  You can just slide it back far enough to access the clutch and flywheel and leave it resting on the crossmember while you do the clutch and flywheel work.  IIRC, you will have to drop the crossmember down a little bit (I just remove the bolts on the passengers side and temporarily replace them with much longer ones), so the tranny will clear the top of the tranny tunnel, when it is slid back.