I'm going to try and keep all my updates in this thread. Here's what's going on... The '99 Tracker I junked had a good engine and it's too much trouble to swap the 2.0L into my '02 v6 Tracker (to get the v6 for my X-90) -BUT- I just happened to come across a '00 Tracker 2.0L with a blown engine. That works out great. I'll toss the '99s 2.0L into the '00 and sell it to buy another v6.

Heads up. Anyone interested in a '00 2.0L 4dr 4x4 Tracker with power everything? 125k on the engine. It's blue with aluminum wheels. I have to replace the running boards (rusted) but otherwise looks like it's a nice truck from the photos I recieved. Maybe $2000-$2500ish

Also selling my black '02 ZR-2 2.5L 4dr 4x4 Tracker also with power everything. 125k miles on the truck. Used engine had 85k when it was put in this spring. The tailgate was dented though. New tires, new battery. $3750 on that one.

I'll check around.

Thanks.

Price update. $1500 for the '00 running and driving. I'll do the engine swap but I don't have time to do body work with so many other projects going. Truck has 180k, engine has 125k, power windows, power locks, a/c, tilt, cruise, keyless entry. Would make a nice truck with a little TLC. It's definitly not a basket case.  

These things are such a pain in the ass to work on. >.< I suckered my friend into helping.

Just means you need to bring more beer. 

Motor in. Runs great. Have someone coming tomorrow for $1500. -crosses fingers-

The Tracker sold the other day so I've been gathering goodies for the build like SS braided turbo oil lines, fittings, flanges and yes, cheap ebay blow-off valves! I'd NEVER use a knock-off diaphragm style BOVs but I'll be using 2 RFL piston style BOVs. Hard for even China to screw those up.

You'll see this car and say "WTF" then you'll hear this car with twin RFLs and say "WTF" again.

That thing is going to be insane.  Possibly in a good way.

Maybe too insane. The X-90 isn't exactly known for it's handling. 

The rear end in that car is LOOSE. The connection to the chassis isn't loose. It's the connection to the road. Too much unsprung weight maybe. If I hit a bump with one rear wheel it tends to toss the car sideways. I think that a-arm shit they used back there is acting like a lever and kicking the car sideways. I may replace the "pipe" that goes between the frame rails (that holds the rear a-arm) and make a new one similar to the 99+ which uses two control arms on top and added a panhard bar. My '02 Tracker doesn't kick around like the X-90 does. I may look into IRS options like a Ford Thunderbird rear and stick the whole subframe in the X-90. Having a frame makes it's easy to fab mounts to do a swap like that. I'd imagine the biggest issue is finding a matching gear ratio.

That's neither here nor there at this point in time. My main focus is getting the v6 into the car with GV AWD working. I'll run it NA awhile just and see how things go. Once everything is working I'll start mocking up the turbo manifolds and IC plumbing but still stay NA. I'd like to bide my time and see if another v6 pops up. That way I can build the engine on the bench and still enjoy driving the car. I -could- leave the turbos on the stock engine and do some light tuning while the other engine gets built. If anything good comes from that it'll be the ability to tell you guys how much boost a stock H25A can take before it breaks rods. lol

Someone REALLY needs to fix this scrolling bug these forums have. SMF SUCKS! You really need to switch over to phpBB or vBulletin.

Anyways... Who's got cheap 4.30s for me?! 

This is the IRS used in the new Camaro. I'd try and find something compact like that. Because of the X-90s lack of a strut tower, it would be hard to mock up a macpherson strut type IRS that's common in other RWD cars.

Also check out the link to what this person did with a T-bird IRS. Easy to build the T-bird setup into just about anything. http://www.primequip.net/products/Project_427/rear_end.htm
 

IRS would be interesting.

Another thing you can do is extend the lower links.  I did that on Project Trouble and it made a HUGE difference in how the rear end soaked up bumps.  We extended the lower links to 32", just cut the frame side mounts off and slid them forward.

Started tinkering on the front end today. Trying to see how I want to run the IC pipes. For starters, I ditched the clutch fan and put a 14" electric puller on it. I then removed the AC fan from the front and wired the new fan to the AC system. It seems the AC circuit has it's own temp sensor so if the engine overheats it kicks off the comperssor clutch and turns on the aux electric fan. I'll be making my own fan circuit and wiring it to the factory temp sensor (for the gauge) and use that to trigger the AC fan relay which is now the main fan. I would use the AC sensor but normally when the fan turned on the clutch goes off. Now that I think about it I can just ground the AC temp sensor wire so the AC system thinks everything is fine and dandy and use that AC sensor for my trigger circuit.

Did any of that make sense? o.o

With the AC fan removed, if I cut out the "center core support" (w/e it's called) I can stick a fairly large IC in there. There's no easy way to take advantage of the scoop on the bottom of the front bumper to push air into an IC. The IC needs to be larger then I can fit down there. So, I will try to seal off the area behind the bumper so that all the air coming in the grill and the scoop has no where to go but through the IC, condensor, and radiator.

Nice to see you back on the ZW boards.  (I would suggest that you have Eric move this thread to the Build diaries, cause this is going to be an interesting Build thread, and there are more Turbo savvy members paying attention to that section.)

Drone did say that I had modified the oil pan for clearance - actually I cut wedges out of the corners for clearance on the cross-frame, and differential (and I have a lowered differential).  I cut wedges out and bent the pan together on both corners (so it would warp and have leaking issues).  (I suggest cutting the wedges out as needed and then plating across to eliminate/lessen warping and oil leakage issues.)  Even with the oil pan modifications I can not fully close my hood.  The front intake cross tube hits.  You may have some issues with the TBI's clearance, unless doing some hood modifications.  (When I can find time and space I have modifications in mind that will eliminate these clearance problems for me, but would not fit in with your lowered vehicle desires.)

I am willing to give you what information I have gained from my swap, and photos for clarification.  Just let me know if I can help - Your solutions may solve my problems.

Ah there you are. The v6 in the X-90 might not be that tight. Maybe there's more room then the Sidekick? I laid a board from the back hood seal to the radiator and measured from there to the frame (below the engine). I then measured from the 2.5's map sensor (highest point) to the bottom of the girdle and I have 5.5" left for a pan. I need to grab the pan from storage and see how deep it is. If I recall it's a 2pc pan. Half is aluminum, that bolts to the block girdle, and then a small steel sump attaches to that... right? If I made any modifications, I'd cut the bottom out of the steel sump and extend it out in any direction I could to maintain oil capacity. I have a sheet metal buddy with a tig who helps me out with the custom stuff.

I might whip up another intake just for show but I do like the long runners of the OEM. It'll help a little with the low end torque until the turbos spool. I'm also taking out the stock steering box and putting in a Tracker rack and pinion. I'm stuck on finding a left front mount for the front diff hanger. I need to locate a junk frame to salvage one from then weld it to my frame rail.

The sump would look like this... And also a pic of the T51 version of the H2xA engine. Looks sexy. They made their own pan for it. That reduction drive is also a nice piece of craftsmanship. Why would they go through that effort without knowing this engine had great reliability? I have high hopes for it.

I was just looking at a X-90, I don't think there is more room. 
Looks like they made a one piece pan for the T51.  Nice looking sump in the photo.  For me the clearance was back drivers side cross member, and front right side on the diff.  There is room to go outward on drivers side, except back corner.  If you change shape of oil pans to provide needed clearance then you could have the room to drop the motor the inch that I need.  (send me one.)  Also you will need room to remove the oil filter.
As you have to build your own motor mounts, make up the diff mount at same time.  Both me and Muskegtracker had tight clearance between the alternator and the right side frame diff mount.
Hood clearance issues were on the front intake cross tube.  If you turn the manifold around and put smaller TBI's on the ends, are you then going to cap off the the original TBI spot, or run a smaller cross-tube?
My low end torque is great.  Doesn't take a lot of throttle to break my tires loose, and 100 has lots of throttle left.
I used 2003 precats & exhaust headers, as they were smaller than the 2005 ones.  As you were planning on a stand alone computer system, you could put the cat under the car, if you install one.
I put a 4 link in the rear end, and it does improve the handling.  Still with the power I have it likes to jump right out there.  If yours spools up fast, it could get away easily.