The best ride and capability for your Sami would be spring over with YJ springs and 33x12.50/15s on 15x8" wheels. That will take care of everything suspension related. If you plan on using it on road as well, use 4.16:1 t-case gears with a hybrid rear axle and either 4.30s or 4.62s in the axles. That will keep the engine happy at freeway speeds but still be very nice to drive offroad...

Finally, a straight answer!! and a tire size.....!!!! Thanks Idaholwb!!

Ok, so here is an update. I have purdy much been at a stand still with the front bumper because all the pics I have seen on the different lifts are in the way of twhere I wanted to mount the front bumper.

So now I have been researching which SPOA (jeepeatter) kit to get? The other thing I have changed my mind about is the motor, I have decided that Vortec 4.3 V6 conversion will suit my needs the best. I will be spinning 32" or 33" tires.

Here lays the questions: Whats the best SPOA (jeepeater) kit? Has anyone used REpower to buy the V-6 conversion? Does it come with everything? Most of all was the conversion worth it and secondly how hard can you get on it with out breaking something?

For a normal spring SPOA kit I like the Stage 2 from Sky Manufacturing.  It gives you everything you need to have a safe well driving rig.  If you want to go with the YJ springs Trial Tough is a solid way to go.

If you plan on going to a 4.3L you should probably expect to go with Toyota or Dana/Ford 9" axles. It might be better to get an S-10 and plan on swapping the entire drive-train over, possibly with full width axles underneath since it sounds like that is where you want to end up.  That way you also get a Dana 300 transfer case and have it mate directly to the Turbo 350 transmission you will probably want to put behind the 4.3L.

As for if it is worth it, that depends on your point of view.  You are taking as small light weight rig and putting a heavy motor and a drive-train in it.  Basically making it a smaller Chevy S-10.  If your just planning on using it to run around and do light trail duty and you need/want the extra power you might be better off just running an S-10.  It will give you room to put a deer in the back and a more comfortable ride.

The most important thing is to plan out your project.  Decide what you are going to use it for, what it will take to get the vehicle to the point you want it, build a project map then knuckle down and go to work.  Unless you are paying someone to do the work you should expect an engine and drive-train transplant to take 6-8 months to complete.  And that is with a donor vehicle.  Then another 4-6 months to work out the kinks and get everything like you want it.

I would recommend driving it around for a while first, see what the limitations are and what you can do with the Samurai stock before planning your mods.  It may end up that some aggressive tires and a pair of lockers are all you need.

I agree with drone.

I look at it like this. I think I have the best lift out there.  Thats why I did it.  However, everyone has a different idea of what that is and each rig is uniquely built.  thats the thing about samurais.  most are home built.

So whats the best spoa lift.  the straight answer in my opinion... Mine.  For premade kits out there, I would do the Sky for simple or an all out kit would be the trail tough kit.

For your 4.3 call lightning conversions.  I have met alan and hes a pretty cool guy to talk to.  V6 conversions is his specialty.  they have a web site, but call him and he should be able to give you the straight answer on what you need for the v6 weight. The yj come stock with a heavy straight 6 so those springs could handle the weight. Ive seen a few of his rigs on sammy axles, but he could tell you the details.

I hope that helps.  I wish I could give you a straight answer about what lift is best. If there was, there would not be any other options out there.

keep us posted...

Thanks for the responses fellas. I really did not want the 4.3 conversion due to cost and of course over kill. However I have tried to read everything I can find and most guys say that if they had it to do over again they would go with the 4.3 conversion.

So instead of trial and error I thought I would go that route.

Its the same with the lift, I was hoping to hear some of the pros and cons of some you fellas that have these lifts on their Sammys already and could give me some hands on answers so I would have to go from lift to lift till I found the one I wanted? Along with tire size and what they had to do if anything to make them work.

I actually have some bad boy axles, T350 tranny, NPT208 transfer case and a 350 hp 350. I should just quit asking questions and completely rebuild the Sammy.

Please don't stop asking questions as this is all very good info that will help others make decisions.  My greatest fear is to not be able to answer valid questions.  In the suzuki world, innovation is what keeps the hobby going.  the low cost of suzuki allows many to have confidance in fabrication and trail and error.  Thats what we need.

For me, I was born in japan and have a japanese mother.  After the gas crunch in the late 70s and living in a rural area 20 miles from school, we could only afford to drive small japanese cars.  So I am used to under powered 4 cylinder cars.  we found them very reliable.  My perspective has been fuel efficient small cars.  If I wanted a 6 cylinder, I would have bought a car with a 6, like a heep. That being said, I have a 16v kick for daily driving, and a Sammy with a 1.6 swap for rock crawling.  I do own a PSD ford and a RV with a V10.  Now it is mostly about what I like and am comforable, not about money.

Please keep us posted. as swaps like your planning are not common place.  I again. call suzuki lightning as he may give you some good info.  I know that he recommends the turbo 200 from the chevy minivans and I think s10 blazer for better fitment.

oh ya, i remember your first post that you just wanted a capable hunting rig, And I replyed that you sounded like I did when I got my first sammy.  Look at you now.  Your going full tilt now.  See you got bit by the bug!!!

I run a 4-link in the rear, and if I was building a rig from scratch I would jump straight to it.  The ride is much better and I don't have to worry about bending springs anymore when climbing up hills.  It wasn't even that hard to put in and if I want to go higher I just need to pick up some taller springs.  It has given me more power for driving down the road and it climbs hills much better then with the straight SPOA.  I could have also just gone with a traction bar and YJ springs and gotten pretty much the same results.

I run 33" tires with a 970cc 4cyl.  Works great, a bit underpowered but I can do logging roads in 2nd with a good running carb and hit 50 on the straights before I run out of RPM's with the 4 speed.  Hybrid rear, 5.12 gears and a 6.5:1 transfer case.

A buddy just finished his 1.6l 16v conversion, 33x12.5 Swamper TSLs running Dana 44 and Ford 9" axles with 5.88 gears and a 5.8:1 transfer case.  With the new engine he runs out of RPM's around 65  but has no issues with power.

My DD is a 96 Tracker 2 door, it is much nicer inside then my SJ will ever be.  For something that will see the road a lot I would probably build an Tracker over an SJ, just because of the extra room inside.  That and I'm 6'4, so not having to rebuild the seat mounts to fit properly is a nice touch. 

Heck, with all those parts laying around you could almost build a buggy and slap a license plate on the back. 

Quote from: wooky on December 10, 2010, 08:30:53 PM

Quote from: tuxblacray on December 09, 2010, 03:44:33 PM

You could go rear springs up front. (remove the overload spring) 2" lift spring in the rear. you can run 30" tires with 1" wheel spacers. I can guarentee the ride to be very nice. SPUA

Other options with this can be new longer shocks, 3" drop pitman,new longer brake lines, longer shackles. Depending on how much flex you want.

Since you did the SPUA what did you use in the back?

Looks like he just got 2" taller spings in back, I came across some name brand 3" lift springs, so I put it on a daily driver.  It rode pretty good SPUA.  the problem is when they sagged, the springs were too long and ths shackles eventually leaned all the way back then the spring started to hit the frame.  I threw them away.  I really dont like most lift kits that justreplace the springs.  they half to make the sping longer because of the arch so they fit the factory maounts. so when they flaten out, they really cant cuz there too long.

Thats the reason i recommend the spoa, and if more is needed, adding a yj , cj or RUF kit that moves the mounting points for the longer springs.

Yep I replaced the rear springs with 2" Calamini springs and have a RUF set up in the front. No problems to date.

I am in the process though of going SPOA with the same set up though.

It really depends on what kind of wheeling you intend on doing. In some sense I agree with Tipover.... For me I just want to be above the large mud holes in my neck of the off road woods.....I love it that you have went from Hunting Rig to a Full Tilt Bad boy in the course of a few posts....

Quote from: tipover on December 11, 2010, 10:38:26 PM

Quote from: wooky on December 10, 2010, 08:30:53 PM

Quote from: tuxblacray on December 09, 2010, 03:44:33 PM

You could go rear springs up front. (remove the overload spring) 2" lift spring in the rear. you can run 30" tires with 1" wheel spacers. I can guarentee the ride to be very nice. SPUA

Other options with this can be new longer shocks, 3" drop pitman,new longer brake lines, longer shackles. Depending on how much flex you want.

Since you did the SPUA what did you use in the back?

Looks like he just got 2" taller spings in back, I came across some name brand 3" lift springs, so I put it on a daily driver.  It rode pretty good SPUA.  the problem is when they sagged, the springs were too long and ths shackles eventually leaned all the way back then the spring started to hit the frame.  I threw them away.  I really dont like most lift kits that justreplace the springs.  they half to make the sping longer because of the arch so they fit the factory maounts. so when they flaten out, they really cant cuz there too long.

Thats the reason i recommend the spoa, and if more is needed, adding a yj , cj or RUF kit that moves the mounting points for the longer springs.

Yep I replaced the rear springs with 2" Calamini springs and have a RUF set up in the front. No problems to date.

I am in the process though of going SPOA with the same set up though.

It really depends on what kind of wheeling you intend on doing. In some sense I agree with Tipover.... For me I just want to be above the large mud holes in my neck of the off road woods.....I love it that you have went from Hunting Rig to a Full Tilt Bad boy in the course of a few posts....

Why thank you tuxblacray!! Full tilt in a few post? As I stated I only want to do this once... It seems very easy, however these little under powered Sammy is in need of much more power for what I want it to do. I have decided to go back to the 1.6 16v motor idea and still tossing around what lift.

What I dont want to do is end up like tuxblacray and others I have read about. They done one style of lift and then move up to another, then another? Why? Just do it the first time.

My biggest concern is not having enough power. I have a long way to drive to coyote hunt and to get there I need to take the frwy and getting up that early in the morning I want to be able to get to my spot in a timely fashion.

I would also agree that if I had not gotten this little Sammy at such a great price I would have bought something else? However I have always wanted to build a little Sammy just never realized the lifts were so different.

Been reading the post from the fella that has the turbo set up in his Sammy, that may do the trick with 1.6 16v. I also called a company yesterday that has the super chargers, with only a 20% gain? That wont work.

Tipover I would have thought that this is what this discussion forum was about? Disgussing ideas, although I was not getting much info. when I first posted and was getting a little discouraged. Thats why when I asked the question about the best "ride" with the size of tires I was talking about it would have been a no brainer to get a straight answer, but I guess its not that easy.

What I dont want to do is end up like tuxblacray and others I have read about. They done one style of lift and then move up to another, then another? Why? Just do it the first time.

That is usually because we build the rig in stages.  I bought my SJ-410 in 2004 or 2003, it has a straight SPOA on it. I tossed on some Samurai axles, hybrid rear, 33x12.5 tires from Craigslist instead of the 31x10.5 I was going to put under it, a locker up front and a spool in back and went wheeling.

Eventually I switched to an RUF to soften up the ride, put new shocks under the front.  Added a second long leaf to keep the spring bent, added a folding front shackle.

After s-curving my second set of rear springs I looked at building a traction bar, decided to just go with a 4-link in the rear instead.

In between I have done a few other mods, such as switching from a front locker to an ARB, switched to Calmini heavy duty front axles then over to Trail Tough Chromoly axles.  Built a T-Case, rocker protection, etc. etc.  It has taken 6+ years of running around for my rig to reach this point, and it will probably keep getting modified in the future as my needs change and I have new needs for the vehicle.   Heck, I might even get a full top again at some point. 

Drone you say a straight SPOA? You also stated that the RUF was a better ride? What was the  straight SPOA?

Thanks

Straight SPOA is where someone just welded on some new spring pads, made a Z bar and called it good. 

Straight SPOA is where someone just welded on some new spring pads, made a Z bar and called it good. 

Ok, then you stated that you went RUF to soften the ride? This is the info. I am looking for!! So you went RUF what did you put in the back axle? What was the lift that was on it?

It ain't bad to be me..... LOL ... My rig came with a 1.6 8v and the current lift on it. (I bought it for those reasons) I am going SPOA beacuse I wanted more to start with and the rig I bought gave me the most for the $$$.

With the current set up she rides smooth with 30's on it at 70 mph if I so desire. But I don't have that desire or intentions for the lil rig...

wooky:  I kept stock springs on the back as well.  One item to be aware of is that I never had the overload springs since I have an SJ-410, so it was probably a bit softer then a stock Samurai.  But eventually went to a coil rear end with a 4 link.  Ran 5" of lift with cut out rear fender wells to clear the tires.

Doing the RUF conversion required moving the shock mounts forward 1.5", I went with a set of cut down F-250 shock towers. The shocks are from a 93 F-250 as well, 9.5" of travel.  I run my shocks off of the top of the axle on the spring pads instead of welding on new mounts on the bottom of the axle.  After installing the RUF and folding shackles I measured the amount of flex and cut down my shock mount accordingly, this way I could avoid having to run a 12-14" travel shock.  A standard SPOA and RUF conversion with fixed shackles will probably only require a 7-8" travel shock to cover the flex.

tuxblacray:  You plan on hitting 100 instead?