My '86 is leaking coolant.  The heater still works good, although I did smell a little antifreeze yesterday from the heater but that may be because it's just leaking on the motor and stuff.  The return line is hot but the line going to the motor is cold even after driving it 8 miles to work.  I can't tell where the leak is coming from but my starter, front diff, front drive line and clutch linkage is wet.  I filled my overfill res. two days ago and it's empty.  It doesn't look like the hoses are leaking.  Any ideas??

I think it might be the water pump.  If it was, would that cause the bottom line to be cold and the top line to be hot?

I could be wrong but it kinda sounds like you may also have a blocked line because once the engine is up to normal temp they both should be warm. Check your thermostat it is way easier to look at then your water pump, but also you can take rad cap off and run engine once temp comes up you should see the coolant moving if the water pump is still working just don't get your face near it ok LOL. 

I also posted a reply to your other post too.

I think that the leaks are the issue that need immediate solutions. if all the leaks are gone and you are still loosing water then we have a better idea.  for hard to find leaks on the engine, look under and behind water pump, look at all the little hoses under the intake manifold.  make sure you check them out good.

It's been a really long time or never when any of the cooling system has been changed so I am replacing everything except for the radiator.  About the timing belt.  I was reading in my manual that you have to loosen all the valves to set the tension on the timing belt.  Does the belt line up at a certain point or can I just put the belt on, put the tensioner back on and adjust the valves?  Is that correct?

On the timing belt, yes the manual says to loosen the rockers. In the real world, most do not do that which is fine.  I just turn the engine 2 revolutions and tighten the adjuster.  then I make sure that it is not too tight by twisting the long section of the belt a quarter turn.  if I can then it is fine.  Just remember it is better to be a little loose than too tight.

Yes read the directions for installation of the timing the belt.  It is a little odd because you initially time the cam on something other than TDC of #1...

Yea, the manual says that when the four notches are lined up, cylinder #4 is at TDC.     What ever.  I'm going to adjust the valves anyway so I'll follow the manual.  It probably won't be for a couple of days because it's suppose to snow and I'm working on it outside.  We'll see.  Thanks for everyone's help though.