Reviving this thread from a day or so ago. 

I opted for the polyurethane replacement bushings in lieu of the stock vulcanized rubber bushings when my rear lower control arm bushings went bad.  I noticed the driver's side lower control arm was extremely loose and easy to move back and forth by hand when I was reinstalling the rebuilt differential.  Frequently pulling a trailer and dragging logs with my truck probably put more strain and wear on these bushings than normal... but they had around 200K miles on them and bushings do go bad over time. 

I looked for replacement OEM replacement bushings but couldn't find any.  Newfie-Zuk provided me a link to Energy Suspension parts for polyurethane replacement bushings and I opted to go that route.  They were a perfect fit with the exception of I needed to drill out the suspension bolt holes to 5/8ths inch.  Extremely beefy.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.9485

Replacing the bushings was relatively easy.  Like all OEM suspension parts after ten years, the bolts were fuzed solid to the bushing sleeves.  I cut through the bolts/bushing sleeves next to the actual bushings with my 4 1/2" grinder with metal cutting wheels.  I had to use a sawzall with a metal blade to cut the bolt/sleeve on the inside front bushing because I couldn't get at it because of the angle and lack of throat on the cutting wheels.  After the bushing was out I had more clearance and was then able to use the 4 1/2" cutting wheel to remove the factory welded on nut and remaining OEM bolt stud to make a flat surface for the new nut to rest upon.  I drilled out the remaining bolt with the larger (5/8ths) drill bit.

Once the arms were out, I chucked them into my vice and applied heat from my propane torch around the ends of the arms to loosen the rubber bushings within the metal sleeves then while still hot I placed them into my press and using a large socket, pushed the old bushings out.  After the bushings were pressed out, I used a hacksaw to carefully make a couple cuts  in the  metal bushing band and then used a small chisel to drive the piece out.  Once this narrow piece of metal was removed the balance of the band slipps out like a huge spring.

I cleaned up the control arms, repainted them with Rustoleum semi-gloss black and installed the new polyurethane bushings with the larger, heavier sleeves.  I also had to buy new, larger bolts to replace the originals and added new ny-lock nuts to them and then snugged them up when the vehicle weight was placed back on the ground.

I haven't taken Buster off road since this repair but the new bushings do make a difference in the feel while driving.  I've read  several different views on vulcanized rubber bushings versus polyurethane bushings.  The general consensus is the rubber bushings provide more flex and are better for off-road driving because they allow more flex, while the polyurethane bushings are stiffer and will last longer in most situations because they do not deteriorate with exposure to the elements or grease and oils and hold up better when using your vehicle for pulling and towing.  Guess I will find out in a few months.

In addition to the firmness/lack-of-flex, poly bushes have a tendency to squeak as the suspension moves - there is a special lubricant that reduces the squeaking, but it "migrates" and you end up having to periodically disassemble & re-lube.

The bushes will also wear - unlike the OE rubber bushes which are bonded to the inner & outer sleeves and distort as the control arms move, the poly bushes rotate on the center sleeve and will eventually develop quite a bit of clearance, necessitating replacement, again, lube helps, but it has to be done repeatedly.

That's a good point that I forgot to mention, Fordem.  Yeah, I've thought about the lubrication needs for these.  The arms are easy enough (now) to remove and lube them periodically. They make a "special" lube for them, but I'll stay with standard lithium gear grease.  Guess I will see how much of a PITA they are to maintain.  I'm up to the challenge.   Still, the control arm action is now much improved from the worn out bushings.         

The bushes will also wear - unlike the OE rubber bushes which are bonded to the inner & outer sleeves and distort as the control arms move, the poly bushes rotate on the center sleeve and will eventually develop quite a bit of clearance, necessitating replacement, again, lube helps, but it has to be done repeatedly.

On the Energy Suspension website they had a video of a newer 1 ton (I believe it was) Dodge 4WD that they installed a COMPLETE Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit on.  I was wondering as I read it how long it would be before the owner had to disassemble all the suspension components to lube all the bushings they installed.  I believe the article stated it took two days for the two guys to install all the new urethane bushings in shop, with the largest part of the time required to remove the OEM bushings from the suspension components.

I've seen some kits with the "pivot" bolts drilled & tapped for zerk fittings, but, I'm not certain how effective they are - unless you're grooving the outer surface of the bolt so that it distributes the grease (and I know how fond you are of those lube grooves...

That would be "groovy" wouldn't it?     I was thankful that Dick got those solid pins finished in time to install into the rebuilt differential.