Got the rundown. The 4x4 actuator pump hoses were reversed lol. I would guess my RV shop somehow reversed them when installing a tow setup. Hmmm...
4x4 now works.
No light on the dash though. They are telling me its most likely a sensor that sits on top of the transfer case?? Sound right FORDEM?
They can't locate a sensor... Got a source for one?

On my rattling motor issue.... Drum roll... Its not the cam chain or tensioner! It is my throw out bearing in my clutch. Push in the clutch and the sound goes away (I could not diagnose that myself).
How long can a noisy throw out bearing last???

We are making headway on the issues...

If the 4WD works but the light doesn't, the problem is most likely the bulb - the transfer case "sensor" is a switch that tells the 4WD controller that 4WD has been selected and it needs to engage the front freewheel mechanism, when the mechanism engages it sends another signal to the controller which then turns the light on.

It's highly unlikely that the rattle is the clutch release bearing, more likely to be something in the transmission - clutch release bearings sit still on the clutch release fork until the pedal is depressed, when they are forced into contact with the diaphragm fingers and start to rotate - what also happens at this time is the transmission input shaft & associated gears, bearings, etc., stop rotating.

Thank you FORDEM. Trying to keep our Tracker 100% functional - not as easy as pie!

Hello all, been away for quite some time. ...We still have our Tracker!

But problems emerge over time.
I have the quick multi flash on the dash 4x4 light. It seems to slip out of 4x4. I shift back & forth the transfer case lever to 4x4 to keep it engaged when I use it (in the snow usually).
Not safe when it comes out of 4x... uphill in the snow.
I hear I can do locking hubs & bypass the vacuum actuation system? Not really my first choice - trying to keep engagement inside the vehicle.

Is there a push/pull cable actuated engagement of the system (after I push the transfer case into 4x)? Thereby getting rid of the darned failure prone vacuum activation.

I'll save my next issue till after we get through this. TIA for some common knowledge!

First - it's not a vacuum actuator, it's low pressure pneumatic.

There are a couple of different ways to "bypass" the actuator, they involve "locking" it engaged, either by forcing it into the engaged position and then welding it engaged, forcing it into engaged position and then putting nylon tywraps to hold it engaged, or replacing the actuator itself with a metal spacer.

All three of these will require manual hubs if you want to be able to disengage the front axle, but the decision as to how & when the hubs should be engaged or disengaged is a personal one, you can get out and engage them everytime you select 4WD, you  can leave engage them in anticipation of needing 4WD, or you can leave them engaged all the time, there is no requirement to disengage them.

Thank you fordem, glad you are still around.
I think our thoughts would be to leave the locking hubs engaged in the winter when 4x4 is used most. Probably 2wd the rest of the year, w/occasional 4x4 use only.

I also have a hum of bearings or gears going out up front. Sounds much like the engine. But when you push the clutch in at 50mph and the engine idles down the hum/engine sound continues and will reduce down as mph decrease. Hard to figure for me.
So two things going on at once. My normal service shop told me the front diff is going out... hmmm. I though diff gears whined when going out?
My local 4x4 shop feels it is bearings going out not ring & pinion whine. I'll find out soon.
Parts are getting rare for my 2000 Chevy Tracker. It works 100% save for the pneumatic pump giving me continued grief (and I did replace a clutch too).
I hate to give it the boot, but if parts aren't available I may let it go before long. It gets a constant 22 mpg so the motor seems solid (about 170k miles).

In 2H the front differential is (or should be) disengaged, the chances of that being the source of the hum is minimal, I'm guessing either tyres or wheel bearings.  The diffs generally don't give trouble,

Thanks fordem. Wheel bearings sounds like a possible place. When this vehicle is being flat towed behind our RV, going around corners the outside front wheel lays over (outward at the top) at an extreme angle, ie side loading. Can't be good.
If I had it to do over again, I would not lift this vehicle. The front end wont align to negative specs when aligning. Just slightly positive, which amazingly is still within spec, but the top of the outward tire does angle out on turns. Not ideal.
I am out of town for a week plus, but I will report back when we have made progress on my issues.
Cheers!

The positive camber on lock is normal they all do it, even without a lift.

My vehicle has Old Man Emu suspension which gives a mild lift, and I have exactly the same situation regarding the camber, very slightly positive but within spec - because it is within spec, I've never bothered to do anything about it, even though I have the required camber bolts sitting on a shelf.  Suspension wise, ride wise, I'm very happy with what I have, and would recommend it to anyone with a second gen.

Thanks FORDEM. I will not worry further on camber.
We will probably go manual locking hubs on our tracker. Not my preferred route but the darned flashing light & keeping it in 4x4 is getting old. The wife loves our old blue Tracker (its a cute little bugger :-) ) but not when its holding in 4x4 properly.
I could just sell it off and be done with it, but it is around to be our RV tow vehicle (trying to be on the cheap).
To be continued...