Like me
I am not a mechanic, in fact this is the first time I have every done any suspension work so follow these instructions at your own risk. I highly recommend that you get a manual and use that as a guide too, the illustrations are nice. Since they are written for mechanics they don’t always tell you how to do things (like remove a balljoint) that is what I am aiming to do in this writeup.
First the suspension list that I installed:
1.5� coil spacers front
2� coil spacers rear
2� strut extension
¼� bump stop extensions
Most of the procedures should be similar for other kits.
Tools:
Metric socket set (good set)
socket wrench
breaker bar
torque wrench
extensions (handy, wobbly extension especially handy)
Metric comination wrench set
Snap ring plyers
BFH
FRONT Dissasembly
1. Jack up the front and support the frame on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheels.
3. Remove the sway bar.
A. I don’t remember any tricks to this, I did it a few months before the rest of the lift. Just unbolt it and throw it in the trash (or corner of the garage if you prefer).
4. Remove the strut brace bar.
A. 3 bolts each side, an extension makes it easier to get to.
5. Remove the hub/drive flange.
A. Remove the bolts and drive flange.
B. Use snap ring plyers to remove the circlip and washer.
6. Remove brackets holding brake hose.
A. You may need plyers to get a good grip and just yank them out.
7. Remove brake calipers.
A. Remove 2 bolts, you may need a decent sized breaker bar to get them loose. A small socket extension and angling the breaker bar out of the wheel well may allow you to get a bigger bar/better leverage.
B. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way using wire, bungee cord etc.
8. If you have ABS see the manual, I don’t have ABS and didn’t have to deal with it.
9. Loosen the uppder strut nut.
NOTE: The manual and others have suggested removing the 3 bolts hold the strut mount, so you can remove the whole assembly and unbolt the strut on a bench using a vise etc. But this is the way I did it.
A. Hold the octagonal washer in place using your preferred tool (channel locks, pipe wrench) I even used a c-clamp on the passenger side because my pipe wrenches were either too big to fit in the engine bay, or too small to fit around the washer.
B. Loosen the nut, another good place to use your breaker bar.
NOTE: I found it easier to leave the rest of the components loose and not remove the bolts until everything is loosened up. This helps hold the steering knuckle and other parts in position so you don’t have to deal with that while trying to break the bolts loose.
10. Remove the Tie Rod end.
NOTE: The manual says to use a tie rod puller, if you do you may need to remove the brake disc to have space for the puller. Or follow my steps and leave the brake disc on.
A. Support the control arm with a jack, position it as close to the tie rod as possible.
B. Remove the tie rod nut.
C. Take your BFH and tap around the tie rod end, then tap it down so it is loose in the spindle.
11. Loosen the ball joint nut.
12. Remove the strut.
A. First reposition your jack if necessary, then remove the strut bracket nuts on the steering knuckle.
B. Remove the upper nut, compress the strut and remove it.
13. Remove the ball joint
NOTE: The manual says to use a puller for this, I looked all over and could not find one similar to the one in the manual that would work. Later I did find one at a specialty tool store but I had already figured out another way that would work.
A. Use another jack, stand or solid object to support the control arm.
B. Position the jack underneath the ball stud. Make sure that the steering knuckle is straight so that the top of the strut bracket is in a vertical line with the ball joint, then raise the jack so that any force exerted on the ball joint is transferred directly into the jack and to the ground.
C. Tap around the ball joint a little bit then give it a few good whacks on top of the steering knuckle. It should come loose after few good hits if you have the jack supporting everything properly.
D. Move the jack back under the control are and remove the steering knuckle.
14. Remove the coil spring.
A. Slowly lower the jack and remove the spring.
15. Remove the bump stop.
A. A pipe wrench (or really big adjustable wrench) works great if you want to remove the bump stop and add a spacer to it.
FRONT Assembly
1. Install strut extension
NOTE: This step is for those using a BDS style strut extension that screws on top of the strut.
A. First check to make sure that you can screw the extension all the way onto the strut. If the tolerances are tight you may need to sand down the rod of the strut, or ream out the extension.
B. You may want to install a washer between strut and the extension so the dust guard covers the strut and not the extension. The original washer needs to be reinstalled on top of the extension so it is in contact with the strut mount.
2. The rest of the installation was pretty straight forward and the reverse of the removal procedures.
3. Note that you want to install the strut brace while the vehicle is supported by jacks, if weight is on the tires and strut tower it is much more difficult to get the bolts aligned correctly.
REAR Dissasembly.
1. Raise the rear and support the frame with jack stands.
2. Remove the wheels.
3. Unbolt the eBrake cables to provide slack.
4. Support the axle with a jack.
5. Remove the shocks
6. Lower the axle and remove the springs.
NOTE: Pay attention to the other cables connected to the axle, when I moved to the second side I noticed they were stretched pretty tight. You may want to loosen other cables too.
REAR Assembly.
Opposite of disassembly, pretty straightforward.
If you have any comments, suggestions or different experiences feel free to let me know. I will gladly update this write-up so others can learn from our mistakes… experience
