hi
from a newbie
Is there a simple kinda way to put a set of disc brakes on a 2001 td gv, do thay do discs on another model like the v6, that would go on the diesel without to much hassle.
cheers
steve-o 68

All the 2nd gens come with rear drums, including the V6 models. The biggest problem with doing a rear disc conversion is getting the handbrakes to work. I believe it is possible to swap Samurai front rotors / calipers on with some bracket work, but you still do not get any hand / emergency brakes...

i dont think hey ever made disk brakes, wonder if a ford f-150 or kia ever had them? maybe as they have the same bolt patern a disk brake would be possible with parts off that, will sure need sustom brackets and a way too hook up the handbrake as 3stagevtec said. i would think maybe using a front set up would be too tight for the rear (rear brake lock up tighter than the front at a point it would act almost as a handbrake kinda?)

i dont really see much of an advantae of this really, unless you are using it for racing lol

i dont really see much of an advantae of this really, unless you are using it for racing lol

Drive in mud much?

Once you get the soupy stuff inside the drums, you'll find the linings don't last very long.

Quote from: diftoyota on April 03, 2012, 08:08:05 AM

i dont really see much of an advantae of this really, unless you are using it for racing lol

Drive in mud much?

Once you get the soupy stuff inside the drums, you'll find the linings don't last very long.

do it country style, drive a nail in one of the rear line fitting, problem solved lol

Quote from: fordem on April 03, 2012, 03:15:04 PM

Quote from: diftoyota on April 03, 2012, 08:08:05 AM

i dont really see much of an advantae of this really, unless you are using it for racing lol

Drive in mud much?

Once you get the soupy stuff inside the drums, you'll find the linings don't last very long.

do it country style, drive a nail in one of the rear line fitting, problem solved lol

Haha sounds like my truck, i have them set so the drums dont engage because for some reason they are either too tight and my rear end is vibrating/locking up when i drive or they are too loose and dont enagage at all.  So I picked: too loose... only thing is if youre on ice you have to put it neutral when u stop or the front locks up and the rear wheels keep pushing them forward!  Would love to fix this problem but dont know how...sorry for the hijack!

Technically, the topic is Grand Vitara rear brakes, so it's not really a hijack

Does your truck have anti-lock brakes?

If you don't, there will be an LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve) on the right rear frame rail that may be acting up - what it does is limit the pressure going to the rear brakes to prevent them from locking, and it does this based on the "load" in the back of the truck - the greater the "load", the more pressure the valve allows.

The problem is the LSPV doesn't actually sense the load, it senses the height of the back of the truck and assumes that if it's lower, it has more of a load in it - so with that 2" spring lift you have, if you didn't adjust the LSPV to compensate, it sees the lift as no load at all, and reduces the rear brake effort to almost nothing.

Thanks Fordem, I've had this problem ever since the lift but never put 2 and 2 together.  I will have to take a look at that.

You're looking for something like this



It might be different (I took that image from the Autozone web site - I was too lazy to jack my car up to get a picture) - basically what you need to do is extend the "LSPV stay" (#3 in the image) to put the end of the spring back where it was originally - so a 2" spring lift would need a 2" extension.

I'm not 100% certain if the body lift makes a difference - check and see where the LSPV is mounted - I think it's on the frame, and if I'm right, then it's just the spring lift you have to compensate for.

The body lift does not make a difference all the LSPV stuff is attached to the frame. Here is a pic from mudchild site.
The LSPV extender is the flat bracket between the strut spacers not much to making one.

The LSPV is  adjusted by pushing the lever (1) up to its stop and then measuring the length of the spring (2) (measurement over the whole spring, i.e. include the loops at the ends).  The correct measurement is 99mm (3.897").  Adjustmnent is done using the bolt between the spring and the stay (3).

Have the vehicle on a level surface, full fuel tank, plus spare tire and manufacturers tools - nothing else.

I simply left the load valve disconnected when I installed my lift kit. I have had zero issues with braking.

I didn't modify mine and haven't noticed any excessive front pad wear or braking issues to date.  I also have not had to lock up my breaks from a high speed to date either, though.