I finally got the pics of my diff's gear pattern from my phone from when I rebuilt it.  This is the ring gear with close to 200K miles on it. The contact patch is wide from wear, but it is centered between the heel and toe well and the depth is good. 

I now have about a thousand miles of driving on it since rebuilding the diff.  No strange noises under power or coasting.  Doesn't feel excessively hot to the touch after running it awhile and most of all, no leaks.  On the far left tooth you can see the coast side of a gear. Best of all, the Lock Right (I installed the old 1512LR again) is working slick as it ever did. 

The Lock Right appears to be functioning much smoother than when I ran it initially.  In about a thousand miles of driving it has popped maybe four times but it hasn't sounded as loud as before.  That may also be due to the fact that I slightly over filled the diff with gear oil, to ensure everything was getting plenty of lube to it.  The diff normally takes about 1 1/2 quarts and I squirted in almost another 1/2 pint of lube into it. The extra gear oil may well be masking the pops and maybe helping the Lock Right function smoother.  At any rate, it works great and I am thankful.

Also, I installed the solid pins (one long and two short pins)  that I had special made into the diff case instead of using the factory OEM pins that had the the oil relief machined into them.
 

I'd heard many times from many people and sources that "crushing" the crush sleeve down when rebuilding a differential was tough to do because of the huge amount of torque that you had to apply in order to crush the sleeve... BUT crush it in a carefully controlled manner so you didn't crush it too far.

I had no tools on hand to do this so I got to thinking about what I had laying around my garage that I could use for this purpose.  This was my first diff rebuild and I wanted to do the best, most accurate job on it that I could.  Then I remembered I had five other complete diffs laying around my garage.

I decided to cut the flange off one of these diffs (I had four others for spares if I needed them) and use it.  I then dug through my scrap metal and found an axle from a small Wheel Horse riding lawn mower that I had scavenged a few years ago.  I cut a notch in the end so it would overlay the flange, clamped it in place and then welded the two together.  Then I figured I would be exerting a lot of torque in one direction, so I cut and welded a gusset on the side that would be bearing the weight of the torque.  The finished product looks like this.  Jaxx is trying to bogart the pic.  He's such an attention hound.

The handle on it is about 30" long.  It worked perfectly.  I had the diff in the diff holding jig I made and it was chucked into my large bench vice.   I welded two bolts into the existing flange holes with nuts to secure them to the diff flange being tightened.  I bolted my flange tool to the flange on the diff then used a 1/2" breaker bar on the nut with a pipe on it for an extension handle on it to turn the nut.  Once the flange/nut made contact with the crush sleeve, I needed every inch of leverage I could get to start crushing the sleeve down in a slow, controlled compression.

I began by pouring gear oil onto the pinion bearings and slowly turning the pinion bearings by hand to work the gear oil into the bearings and cups.  I wanted to be able to measure the bearing resistance WITH gear oil coating them as it would when the diff was assembled and in operation.

Initially, you can check the play in the flange visually.  If the flange is still "floppy" in the diff (moves back and forth)  you know you aren't even close...   yet.  I'd turn the nut about 1 1/2 times then check the play in the flange to the diff.

Once I made contact with the crush sleeve (and you will know), I'd turn the nut about a full turn with the breaker bar/pipe extension, then pull the flange tool and socket and breaker bar off and check the resistance with the inch pound torque wrench.  I'd put the inch pound torque wrench on and rotate it about two complete revolutions while carefully watching the needle on the beam to discern the "average" inch pounds of torque.

Then I'd drop it down to just 1/2 turns with the breaker bar/extension.  Check it again with the inch pound torque wrench.  Then drop it down to 1/4 turns.  Check it again.  Then drop it down to 1/8 turns when the resistance on the inch/pound torque wrench started to get around the 5-6 inch pounds area.  I finally settled on between 13-15 inch pounds of drag on the pinion flange and called it good.  The factory FSM calls for 14 inch pounds of initial resistance (without the ring gear being installed).

After my ring gear was installed back into my diff with the new side bearings and the side bearings adjusted so I had around 0.05-0.08ths gear lash play, I checked the pinion drag again.  It remained at/around the 14 inch pounds. 

WELL over a thousand miles on the diff rebuild now and... knock on wood, it is still performing well.   

These are the new solid pins that Dick made me.  He got them done just as I was rebuilding the diff so I stuffed these in the diff too.  The OEM stock pins with the machined oil reliefs (for the spyder gears) are on the right.  Perfect timing and so far, they are performing great.