I agree with Binkie.  I did originally think that, with the driveshaft not turning, the bearing would be affected, but I have convinced myself that it cannot, and altered my post.

Just in case this is hard to follow, let me explain using "layers".  First is the driveshaft which feeds through the hollow spindle and is supported by a bearing inside the spindle.  Next layer is the spindle, a hollow tube which is bolted to the steering knuckle, and does not turn with the wheel or the driveshaft.  Next is the wheel (or hub) bearing, which sits on the outside of the spindle, and last is the hub, which rides on that bearing, and to which the wheel is bolted.

On the Sidekicks and Gen 1 Trackers, there's a bushing inside the spindle instead of a driveshaft bearing - otherwise the principle is the same.

My reasoning is that the driveshaft sits in a separate bearing to the wheel (or hub) bearing.  The driveshaft bearing is inside the spindle (the non-rotating hollow member attached to the knuckle), and the hub bearing is outside the spindle. If the driveshaft is not turning, its bearing cannot wear, as no movement is taking place, and no part is under load.  The hub bearing is being turned by the wheel, as you would expect, but cannot "feel" whether the driveshaft is turning or not.  The point is that the driveshaft does not come into contact with the hub bearing, so there can be no interaction.

Interesting.  So when the drive shaft is driving the wheel the hub links the drive shaft to the wheel outside (using the layered explaination) of the wheel bearing?  Therefore the only possible (extra) wearing part should be between the drive shaft end (spline or whaterver) which is now not spinning and the manual hub.

Ok in this layered set up where is the weight of the car being carried or where does the control arm attach?  Is it to the hollow spindle?  Coz that would still mean that only the wheel bearing supports the weight.  Anyway I think I need a picture, maybe I'll go looking on the weekend.

Yes, the lost motion between wheel and driveshaft takes place in the manual freewheel unit (which is really a dog-clutch).  The freewheel unit contains some form of bearing, but it does not even support the weight of the driveshaft end (the driveshaft bearing inside the spindle does that), so is very lightly loaded and will probably not wear very much at all.

The weight of the car is borne as follows:

Frame to spring, to control arm, to knuckle, to spindle, to wheel (or hub) bearing, to hub, to wheel.
So yes, the wheel bearing carries the weight.

The only way I could see damaging the bearings is if the splines were not a correct match.  This would cause excessive side loading on the inner bearing.  This is unlikely, you would know about the improper fit during install.

Maybe there is not enough or too much spline engagement, that is why they do not recommend for the Grand Vitara?  Or maybe they just don't recommend it because you don't need it on the Grand Vitara?

I'll proceed when the snow is gone and don't need shift on the fly anymore.

Marc

You can run manual hubs all winter just fine.  Simply lock them in around November and unlock them in April when the snow is gone.  Works fine.  We've done it for several years on our vehicles with no issues and I know people who have literally been doing it for decades.

Up until yesterday our GV had easily over 20,000 miles on it running manual hubs...including a 3000 mile trip to Florida and back in just over a week.  No issues.

If I can get the new Warns I fitted last month off of the GV they'll be going on our next Suzuki.  More in a separate post.

Pulling off my warn hubs.
Eaten two sets of hub/bearings!!
ps  For sale one set of slightly used Warn premium manual locking hubs!! LOL!

I am interested how much shipped to 39157 ?   Thanks

Just resurrecting this one, because I've just had a thought about the wheel bearing failure issue:

It's well known that Samurai freewheel units do not fit Track/Kicks. This is because the Track/Kick axles are prevented from pulling out of the hubs by snap rings on the shafts (Sammys are not). Track/Kick freewheel units have a recess inside to accommodate the snap rings. The GV axles also have snap rings.

Now, some people have posted that they HAVE used Sammy units on a Track/Kick, and there was no problem fitting them. What if those people have got a suspension lift fitted, so that the axles are retracted further than normal? The units will fit, but when the suspension arm rises, the axle will extend into the hub, and the ring will hit the unit. The impact will be communicated to the rotating part, and thence to the wheel bearing, resulting in a sideways shock load.

If this theory is right, make sure you fit Track/Kick units, not Sammy ones, and the problem will not arise.

I'm still convinced that was the mechanic talking out his ass and just bad info.

Wow.  Interesting thread.

FWIW, I was one of the first to swap in manual hubs.  I've gotten over 70K miles like that.  Still the original bearings, and no failure.

The GVs came with "lock-out" hubs.  Only reasons was so everything always spun, and the new "air diff" could do its thing any time, so they could market "Shift on the Fly", as all SUVs were doing it.  This was Suzuki's attempt to make an existing platform do something it was never originally meant to do, and that is, run with it's hubs locked all the time.

To better answer Ian.  This ended up making the axle housing seal on the pass side inner CV shaft prematurely wear.  Techs would see this happen on Manual hubbed Kickers when the owners would lock the hubs and then drive 10's of thousands of miles.

Suzuki recognized this early on with the GVs.  Not only was the seal "revised" several times in a matter of 3 years (can be seen thru the several "superceed" part numbers for that seal), but they even issued a TSB saying the premature seal failure was due to inadeguate filling of the front diff, and called for a WACKY fill proceedure of lifting the front end like 30* and then filling.  This would over fill the diff and get oil to the seal (or they thought).

Apparently, it didn't work.  Eventually, the seal superceed part numbers continued even after the TSB issue date.  Leaking pass side diffs is something most Gv's are accustom to.

Now, that said, before I went with manual hubs, I too had a leaking seal right about 10k miles.  Put in a newer sytle seal (has been redesigned since) and added the Warn hubs.  After 70K+ more miles, it doesn't leak, and wheel bearing are good.  Something to be said there.

I know of a few, some on this board, that do/did not have manual hubs and have replaced the seal many times.

Additional benefits:

• less wear on carrier bearings
• less rolling resistance
• ability to unlock hubs if a axle breaks
• fuggin' looks cool

I dunno if the last one really counts with most, but it does with me.  It don't mean a thing if it aint got some bling.

Wow.  Interesting thread.
FWIW, I was one of the first to swap in manual hubs.  I've gotten over 70K miles like that.  Still the original bearings, and no failure.

That must be nice I'm 65k and 3rd set of bearings 

I know of a few, some on this board, that do/did not have manual hubs and have replaced the seal many times.

And twice for this.

.....but they even issued a TSB saying the premature seal failure was due to inadeguate filling of the front diff, and called for a WACKY fill proceedure of lifting the front end like 30* and then filling.  This would over fill the diff and get oil to the seal (or they thought).....

So the "well known" advice to jack up the front when refilling is unneccessary?

Considering on the later years they moved the fill plug higher on the diff I'd say it is necessary.

it is necessary to give you more oil to leak out 

I dunno.  Knock on wood but my '03 GV and '02 XL7 have never given us any troubles.

i have replaced the complete pass side gear, from bearings in the diff to the wheel bearing.....  with less than 60KM on mine.  GM was very good about doing it all under warranty as the 1st issues came up with no mods and less then 20KM.  the dealership did not crank the front up any degrees when doing the front diff refill as it is not part of their procedure.  but if this is working for some guys run with it.