Quote from: talonxracer on July 28, 2012, 12:10:32 PM

A pass side drive shaft support is really required, they can be found thru Suzuki for 79$, I am having a CNC shop make a bunch for 1/5th the price!!!!

Is this the nylon insert that goes behind the seal?  Are you planning on selling them?

Yes it is the support bearing Suzuki came up with to prevent the pass side seal from being worn out prematurely and also from the CV torqueing the housing. And yes I will be having enough made to have some for sale. Going to step up to Delrin instead of the Suzuki's nylon 6/6 with additional drain holes for housings that are dropped and or a vehicle that sees extreme angles for extended periods.

So lemme get this straight...with this doemahickey of yours, a Calmini stubshaft, and a regular D-side CV shaft someone could basically bolt onto their Tracker/Vitara a bolt on CV shaft setup?

Driver's side is done.  Garage is a mess.  Tracker went around the block fine though.  Passenger side hopefully tomorrow...maybe.  Oy.

Having some locking hub issues though.  Ask those separately.

After battling with a variety of PITA things this weekend I have it done.  Mostly.  Need to fill the front diff back up since a little gear oil leaked out.  Also need to check up on the D-side since I think I did something wrong.  Easy to check though.

However...the spacer at the end of the passenger side CV shaft that goes between the unit bearing hub surface and the lock ring...I CAN NOT get that thing in there at all.  Just not enough room for it between the lock ring grove and the hub surface.  If I put it on there the lock ring won't go in at all.

I've got a 8mm bolt threaded into the shaft and have yanked and yanked on it and the damn thing will not budge out further.  Vehicle is back on the ground and has moved back and forth down my driveway and over the curb several times.  Any thoughts?

I had the SAME thing happen to me during my new CV install on the passenger side.  the driver's side went on slick.  No problem but the passenger side was a totally different story.  I ran a bolt in to pull the CV outward more as well.... but no dice.  I ended up taking the snap ring and washer over to a friend who owns a machine shop and had him micro polish both of them, remove a few thousandths and then  took them back to the truck.... slipped them back on and started grunting and tugging on the CV... got to ALMOST pop on, then reached around to the inside of the CV shaft, gave it a quarter turn and the snap ring "popped" into position.  It's crazy.  Possibly I warped the snap ring slightly with the snap ring pliers during removal.  It was a pain in the arse.

I did pack the new inner seal with a little grease and coated the new CV spline with grease and thought MAYBE I was working against the conpressed grease in the knuckle.  Don't know for sure.  But it finally snapped on and 've had no problems with it to date.

Might have to do something like that.

Think the lock ring alone would be enough to get to work and back with?  I have to be at work in 6.5 hours.

Figures our machinist hurt himself and quit a few months ago and hasn't been replaced...

I ran without the spacer and just the snapring for about 50 miles without any issues untill I could locate a spacer(lost one somehow during my lift install)....

You may need to hand hone the spacer slightly to get your snapring to seat in the groove. I had to do exactly that for a neighbors tracker. 

Quote from: talonxracer on July 28, 2012, 12:10:32 PM

A pass side drive shaft support is really required, they can be found thru Suzuki for 79$, I am having a CNC shop make a bunch for 1/5th the price!!!!

Is this the nylon insert that goes behind the seal?  Are you planning on selling them?

Those nylon inserts work great! I have no idea why they cost so much from suzuki, although it's still cheaper than buying them from Altered Ego Motorsports. 80 bucks for a nylon donut!

Was going to try and mill or sand down that spacer today so it would give me room to get the lock ring in place.

Pulled my cover off and noticed the space seemed wider than before.  Stuck the spacer in from the side and sure enough it was a perfect fit.

Somewhere in the last 100 miles everything "evened out" or whatever and the CV shaft is now seated correctly.

Now to figure out the old Warn hubs I bought.

Sweet!  That has to be a relief.  Maybe the answer in the future is just snap the snap ring on... drive on it, let the CV seat itself and just do what you did.  I'll file that away for future reference versus getting frustrated at fitting them on.

It was a pleasant surprise to be sure.

AJM, while you have your old CVs near by, lay them side by side and check out the differences in length on them.  NOT much.  I was looking at my old ones today trying to visualize shortening the passenger side to mod it to be able to use a driver side CV.  The missing piece in the picture is an inner shaft from the driver side.  I know a gentleman who can weld bubble gum and I know he would be up to laying a bead around the hybrid shaft.

Seriously though, how well and long would one of the Suzuki bushings hold or support the short shaft on the passenger side?  I'm wondering if the bushing would prevent the CV from totally munching the passenger side housing seal within a few thousand miles versus 50 or 60K miles.  Guess it would be preferable to no bushing or bearing at all, but still I'd like to have some idea of how well a bushing would work versus a support bearing on the passenger side.

Mine are gone.  I tossed them in the trash and they were gone on Tuesday.

I'm working on my Bachelor's degree and honestly just don't have time to dink with this stuff.  Money?  Hah!  This needed to get done so I spent the money.  The hubs...well...so sue me.  I just need a reliable DD right now.

Seriously though, how well and long would one of the Suzuki bushings hold or support the short shaft on the passenger side?  I'm wondering if the bushing would prevent the CV from totally munching the passenger side housing seal within a few thousand miles versus 50 or 60K miles.  Guess it would be preferable to no bushing or bearing at all, but still I'd like to have some idea of how well a bushing would work versus a support bearing on the passenger side.

There are a set of drawings floating around the web on adding a bearing - possibly on the AusZookers website.



This is from this thread

Quote from: nprecon on August 02, 2012, 05:54:33 PM

Seriously though, how well and long would one of the Suzuki bushings hold or support the short shaft on the passenger side?  I'm wondering if the bushing would prevent the CV from totally munching the passenger side housing seal within a few thousand miles versus 50 or 60K miles.  Guess it would be preferable to no bushing or bearing at all, but still I'd like to have some idea of how well a bushing would work versus a support bearing on the passenger side.

There are a set of drawings floating around the web on adding a bearing - possibly on the AusZookers website.



This is from this thread

The Gen 1 right shaft is much larger down to the spline, and is able to be held in place by differential sleeve/support for that side bearing.  If Gen 2 right shaft is smaller diameter as in photo, then a Samurai third member could be used without machining the bearing support sleeve.
Or, has that shaft been turned down to be able to use a bearing?

I think the gen1 and gen2 CV ends are of similar design towards the end of the CV that fits into the side driver of the diff... with the main difference of the splined part being longer on the ist gen (I think).  They both have the larger shoulders before the splined ends that ride against the seal in the axle housing.

That small shaft in the pic Fordem sent appears to be just the cut-down shaft and 3-bolt flange from the inner driver side axle which (by looking at the pic) would require a small bearing and a seal with a smaller opening to contain the diff oil (as pictured). 

I have seen other pics of a fabbed 3 bolt flange with the larger shoulder of the CV shaft still attached to it.  The seal on a 3 bolt flange with the larger shoulder could and a plastic bushing would last for awhile, anyway, but a bearing and seal would be 'more better'.