I noticed the partsdinosaur kit didn't include the sprockets within their kit.  This rockauto.com kit contains the sprockets and a seal as well for $195.79.  Very competitive.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1384310,parttype,5756,a,www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BCHEVROLET

Is it worth doing this?... or just get a used engine from wrecker?

It seems like this is an inherent issue with the 2.0L and pretty much seems like faulty tentioners, but I mean, based on what I can tell its a full day job just to get to gover off...

pullies, altenator, water pump, rad, crank pully idler pullies, oil pan (if required)...

I got about 100,000 miles... and its not tired at all,  but, a whole engine swap may be just worth while if you can find one with lets say 40k miles on it?

Your call - do the math.

The problem is the result of poor maintenance - not changing the oil when it should be done - what are the chances of that 40K engine in the wrecker being in any better condition than the one you have now?

So it's a full day's work to get the tensioners changed - how long will it take is to get the entire engine swapped?  And at the end of the first option you have a pretty good idea what to expect, but after the second option, you're turning the key and hoping that engine starts & runs.

Personally - the engine in my GV is a known quantity, I'd rather spend the dollars and keep it - I know what condition it's in.

Your call - do the math.

The problem is the result of poor maintenance - not changing the oil when it should be done - what are the chances of that 40K engine in the wrecker being in any better condition than the one you have now?

So it's a full day's work to get the tensioners changed - how long will it take is to get the entire engine swapped?  And at the end of the first option you have a pretty good idea what to expect, but after the second option, you're turning the key and hoping that engine starts & runs.

Personally - the engine in my GV is a known quantity, I'd rather spend the dollars and keep it - I know what condition it's in.

This is very true... but that statement regarding the oil isn't... I was very methodical and use Castrol Syntek every 5k, and yet well... this occured, which based on what I can tell on the forum isn't uncommon regardless of your maintenance routine.

but a 40k engine vs a 100k engine is a debate for me right now that's for sure, especially as I'll likely have a mechanic do the work as I just don't have the space or time to do the timing chain job (more afraid of just trying to get the crank pully off actually)

I know the feeling - I still haven't touched mine - and still in two minds as to whether to tackle it myself or take it the local Suzuki guru.  I was planning on doing it in the driveway, but when I had the time, we had a wet week (I have no covered space to work), and since then my arthritic knee has been acting up, limiting how much time I can spend on my feet.

I know the feeling - I still haven't touched mine - and still in two minds as to whether to tackle it myself or take it the local Suzuki guru.  I was planning on doing it in the driveway, but when I had the time, we had a wet week (I have no covered space to work), and since then my arthritic knee has been acting up, limiting how much time I can spend on my feet.

I have a garage, a 20gal compressor and a nice 3/8 & 1/2 bluepoint impacts... however
replacing the stupid water pump itself was a pain in the butt, with the position of the bolts and having to remove the pully to get to them

Last time I tried to take off a crank pully off my VQ35DE on my Nissan Altima, I couldn't budge it with air, and eventually had to use the starter to bump it...

Now to have to do all that, plus all the required activities to pull off the rad, oil pan... its kinda daunting for an engine that already has so many k

So yea, its deliberating my options really.

Received the rockauto.com timing chain kit and one of their water pumps as well the other day both manufactured made by DNJ Engine Components.  Check out the front of the boxes AND the back of both boxes:

please take pics and post your experiences!!!

I think I may just take a weekend and go forward with doing the timing chain myself as long as well... I can and not have to be forced to have to tow it somewhere with having issues with removing something as stupid as the crank pully.

oh and... so as a last ditch effort to get whatever I can out of this timing chain... I dropped in half a bottle of lucas oil, and it has surprisingly quieted down the rattle.... cold to warm for relatively short drives thus far

I didn't think something as thick as lucas could actualy improve oil pressure, but it claims it does so who knows?

Don't remove the oil pan on the 2.0 just the bolts that go up into he timing cover!!!!
Once you have the cover off you can put a rag in the top of the pan to keep from dropping things into the pan.
Once you have the chain in turn the engine over and make sure the timing marks line up.

That's what I was thinking about trying.  Seriously, the FSM directs you to pull the front diff and remove the pan to perform this timing maintenance.   Wow. 

yea... it gets pretty darn involved with the serivce manual....

I may give it a go-myself one of these weekends

has anyone done this yet themselves?

Curious as to the difficulty of matching of being as precise as required... i.e. even with has marks, just finding TDC etc...

Suzuki-forum info on timing chain maintenance/replacement:

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/32794-time-timing-chain.html

It's now been over six years and over 65K miles later and my engine is still running very well with the DNJ timing kit and water pump from Rock Auto installed in October of 2011.  My 2 liter now has over 215K miles on it.  He's still a little beast.