Whats up folks!
 
Next week I'm gonna buy a Calmini 2.5" susp. kit for my 01'  2.0L Vitara.  I read about davyboys problems with waiting forever to  get his and then having problems getting it installed, and that worried me a bit.  I called calmini and was told their building a bunch of kits and will have them avail in a couple weeks so its doesnt seem like it will be a problem getting one.. But I'm still  wondering how hard it is to install yourself?  I was planning on installing it in my driveway.. is that possible?? Or do you need shop assistance?  Any pointers on the install would be greatly appreciated!  Also im riding on 225/75/16's mounted on factory rims which is getting alot of frame rub with my current homemade spacer setup.. does anyone know if the cal kit will get rid of the rub?   Or should I look into new rims?

Thanks in advance fella's 

James     

Those tires will be fine after the lift.

Those tires will be fine after the lift.

cool!


Anyone know if the cal kit sits like a spring spacer lift with the rear lower than the front?

I've had my Calmini kit on for about 7-8 weeks.  Front definitely sits higher than the rear, but I think it'll come down....eventually.

Hmm...  when I get mine I might try a 1" spring spacer in the rear.  Maybe that will balance it out.   

Where did you get your locker? Calmini & RR didnt have any when I called. 

thanks
james

Part of the reason mine is higher in the front is my swaybar is removed.  I had to....it wasn't fitting right.  CALMINI should include something to address this in the kit.  Oh well....just have to drive carefully on the highways!

The removed swaybar should not be a problem ....you will get used to it. Just don't slam on the brakes if you find yourself going to fast into a tight curve. Always slow into the curves and power out. It is just a matter of changing your driving to match the multi-purpose vehicle you are building.

FTS has a spacer for the sway bar  (#35)  http://www.fts4x4.com.tw/modules/news/article.php?storyid=14  it doesnt look like it would be hard to make.  I really want to keep the sway bar after I install my calmini kit since I'm adding a safari rack which will be loaded down for weekend adventures.. I really dont want to get tippy on these utah mtn trails/roads.  I'm also thinking wider wheels may be a good idea..l 

Installed 1 1/2 coil spacers from Jeff H on my truck.  Ended up with 2" of lift on the front of the truck and my sway bar wouldn't mount up either.  Fabricated a couple of strut shims 3.25 inch long by 1.25 inch wide, tapped 9mm holes in them and used longer 8mm grade - 8 bolts into the stock mounting holes.  Worked well.  The frame where the sway bar mounts to is at roughly a 45 degree angle to the ground, so any thickness (shim) you add pushes the bar forward AND down a little.  A 3/4 inch thick shim seems to be the ticket for correcting a 2" lift.  Attachment at the A-arms is almost vertical.

Installed 1 1/2 coil spacers from Jeff H on my truck.  Ended up with 2" of lift on the front of the truck and my sway bar wouldn't mount up either.  Fabricated a couple of strut shims 3.25 inch long by 1.25 inch wide, tapped 9mm holes in them and used longer 8mm grade - 8 bolts into the stock mounting holes.  Worked well.  The frame where the sway bar mounts to is at roughly a 45 degree angle to the ground, so any thickness (shim) you add pushes the bar forward AND down a little.  A 3/4 inch thick shim seems to be the ticket for correcting a 2" lift.  Attachment at the A-arms is almost vertical.

looks good.. what did you fab that from?

looks good.. what did you fab that from?

Metal.

 

Quote from: dentedzuk on September 02, 2008, 08:47:01 PM

looks good.. what did you fab that from?

Metal.

 

oh... I thought it was rusty wood!

Used a piece of 1 1/2" square tube with 1/4" side walls.  Split it right down the middle with a band saw, templated the holes from the stock mount, drilled them, then mounted them with the "U" side against the frame.   Initially I intended to use the entire box tube as the mount.  then once I trial fitted it was obvious 1 1/2" was TOO much so I split the difference and the 3/4" was just about spot on.  Obviously you will probably want about a 1" spacer if you have your front end cranked up 2.5", maybe more if you're higher.  But the price for a small piece of box tubing (usually scrap at a machine shop) is right.  Probably the most painful part of fabbing these is cutting the tube length wise if you don't have access to a band saw. 

thanks nprecon,  I am definitely going to copy what you did and just try to adjust for more lift.  Probably do it this weekend too since I got my calmini kit today... which by the way looks pretty good!  Well minus the shocks & struts.  They where already a bit  bent/dinged, and missing some paint.  I'm guessing from shipping and (ruff) handling since they came in a box on there own and looked to be kicked around a bit, thanks UPS!  I couldn't wait so I went ahead and threw in the rear springs/shocks..got the hotrod look going now until the weekend.  :

O.K. here are my experiences with the Calmini lift.  I have put over 200,000 km's on it now (about 150,000 Highway, 50,000 Offroad pounding).

Installing the front end was initially a challenge, I can now take apart and reinstall the front end like a pit crew.  It is a good idea to have a spare CV Axle Clip because it can break when removing the CV from the Front Diff.  It is also a good idea to pre-load the the coil springs with the kit if you have access to a good spring compresser.  It would have made it easier to get them in the first time and for a smoother ride initially.

Rear end is simple, just make sure to check the bolt tightness after going offraod.  I noticed the the bolts in the rear linkage would get loose, I have since used thread locker and check routinely.

The fun part is alignement.  It took me a couple sets of tires to get it right.  You MUST use camber bolts or ovalize your struts to achieve the correct camber.  Then I have also noticed that I only get the correct wear on my tires if I have a very slight toe-in on the alignment.

I haven't noticed any swaybar problems with the kit as stock, except when I turn the wheel hard to the left and drive in reverse.  I am going to try and add a swaybar spacer of 3/4" - 1 " as some of the other posts have suggested.

One of teh things I am thankful for is that Calmini has made the design of the kit easy to change the various ball joints on the front end as I ahve had to replace them a couple of times.

Oh yeah, you have to got to get rid of the stock shocks and struts and replace them with OME or something else.  Or just go offroading and smash the crappy ones that Calmini puts in the kit first then replace them.