Hi Guys,

I recently realised that my front wheels seems to be bending inwards, not too sure if it's normal. Anyone has similiar experiences, or am i being paranoid?

Thanks in advance

you need an alignment. badly.

you're camber is way off.

Okie man! Thanks a billion! That doesnt seem normal!
I just replaced my Gasket Casing on the passenger side..

Rgds

Does that vehicle have some sort of suspension lift fitted?  Coil spacers or longer springs?

From the factory the only thing alignment adjustment is toe-in - the camber is fixed.

If the vehicle has been lifted, you'll need to get a set of camber adjustment bolts from an accessory manufacturer - Engalls Engineering should have - if the vehicle has not been lifted, you have a suspension problem that needs to be identified and corrected.

Hey,
Yes my ride is lifted.. 3" suspension lift.
should i get the clamber adjustment kit from Rocky Road?

Rgds

If that's where you got the lift kit then yes - they should know what's needed - and should have suggested that you buy it along with the lift kit.

you could also slot the lower strut holes making more room for adjustment, i've heard guys have had to to this a bit even with camber bolts, if you have a true increase in front of 3inches you might be slotting either way.

If you just had the lift installed recently, you might consider driving your truck for no more than 50+/- miles/75Kms to settle the front suspension in then get the camber set.  50 miles won't kill your tire tread but I wouldn't drive it any farther with the camber off.

Did you adjust your toe after you did the lift? Toe effects camber on this type of suspension. So, if you set you toe-in back to a 'normal' setting the camber will settle in quite a bit. It probably won't be enough but it's a start. Then you can drive it to the alignment shop.

-Eric

you could also slot the lower strut holes making more room for adjustment, i've heard guys have had to to this a bit even with camber bolts, if you have a true increase in front of 3inches you might be slotting either way.

I'm not really in favour of "slotted" strut holes - I've had problems with the camber changing because it's impossible to tighten the bolts down enough to hold - I have seen some guys use large washers on the outside of the struts and after completeing alignment, tack welding the washers to the strut to hold things in one place.

I'm not really in favour of "slotted" strut holes - I've had problems with the camber changing because it's impossible to tighten the bolts down enough to hold - I have seen some guys use large washers on the outside of the struts and after completeing alignment, tack welding the washers to the strut to hold things in one place.

I had my strut holes slotted after installing my lift. Indeed the bolts did come loose (or were not properly tightened by the alignment shop) and the camber went out again.

I took it back to the shop and they reset the camber and tacked on a washer to make sure it could not become misaligned again. Grade 8 bolts and a stove nut were also installed to ensure nothing would ever break or come loose. I've been driving the truck everyday for several weeks with no problems.

If you can't get camber adjusters from the vendor, you can order a set of Specialty Products camber bolts  (MUCH more reliable than slotting the strut holes!) from you local auto parts (factors?) store.

Here is a video describing the instalation from Specialty products:

http://www.iapdirect.com/pictures/EZCam1.wmv

I hope that this helps!

Thanks Guys..
would take the car back to the shop on Monday, as it's the festive season now.
Been driving my car and some offroading,not much change to the ride feel.. but yea, would get it sorted out asap.

Slotting is OK, if everything is good and tight,  welding the washer is good insurance too. 

FWIW, mine are slotted, stock bolts, lock-washers, non-welded...and still lined up after 22,000 miles, and one really sick jump (and a few little ones)