im thinking its just the XL7 that has this problem then... the tracker 2 and 4 door and the vitara and grand vitara are all using the same parts from 99-05 on the parts list i found too... i did see a picture of an XL7 3rd memeber next to the GV/tracker and it was physically bigger... it shows a different CV shaft and everything but they all share the same control arm, i have an xl7 control arm here for mine ready to put in it and its identical, and its sayng for an ARB you gotta change the 3rd memeber's and use 26 spline axles so the XL7 has a different setup different axles,3rd memebers,cv's probably bigger and beefier... so that is the problem... you gotta switch over to the GV/tracker diff if you want the goodies, or wait for the XL7 to come out with its own...

i have contacted ARB in the past and was told that their listing showed that i was required to replace the diff for my 03 with something pre 99...  didn't make any sense to me.

recently i emailed RockyRoad and asked if they had any solutions for locking up the rear on my 2003, i never got any response.  wonderful. 

i personally don't care what king of locker goes in there, pretty soon there won't be a warranty so if it comes to it maybe somebody can weld it for me...........................  this f'in sucks moose balls but the reality is with the limited articulation a locker is becoming a must if i want to keep up.

hmm...
http://www.puresuzuki.com/limited_slip_diff.htm

so maybe its the V6 that kills the locker idea....  anything 2000 on down is a 4 and when they added the the V6 option maybe they just changed the front and rears for all of them not just the v6's.... thats why they tell you to go with 2000 down parts ebcause they know its going to be the right size...

http://www.puresuzuki.com/lockright.htm
this says up to 2001, its got to be the internals of the V6 axles i know it... they might still be 26 spline and all but the diameter is probably bigger to take the power of the v6 better... but a common mod is to use the V6's steal housing for your front diff and we already know by other people doing it that the older 3rd memeber 96-2000 will bolt into the newer steal housing fine... so to do the front i would say just buy a used 3rd memeber and cv shafts from 96-00 26 spline to be safe then put the locker in using the older 3rd memeber and cv shafts... you would probably need to use the axle seals for the 96-00 style too if it is a smaller diameter.."could salvage them outta the used one you get"

for the rear its even eaiser i would just take a whole used axle from 96-01 toss in the locker then simply bolt the whole assembly back into place... would probably be best to get the axle outta a 96-01 12 bolt its stronger and its 3rd memeber is a direct bolt in to your current axle housing...  you will have to check to see if the spring and shock mounting points are the same in the 96-98 style, if not you can use your old axle housing like ARB says and just use the older 26 spline axle shafts and 3rd memeber... dont forget to match your front and rear gears

it will cost more then the pre 2001 and down guys will have to do but it is possibal, and if you search the junkyards and ebay im sure you could still find a deal... it really sucks though that you have to loose the slightly beefier parts to be able to lock it up... might be a good idea to just sit on it and wait for them to develop something for the 2001 and up styles... although it will probably be pretty pricy at first till they get popular, probably about the same price as doing the swap out...

thank god i have a 99 you dont always get screwed on the first year of a new model..lol

front lickrite locker 299.00 from trail tough for the 26 spline
rear lockrite locker 299.95 from calmini with coupler 26 spline

i know that the rear will work for a fact... the front ill let you guys know but i dont see why it would be a problem with the lockrite style locker with manual hubs
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_030104/feature_tsb_shiftontheflyremoval.htm
but you will need to change it out for any LSD,ARB, or any other automatic locker

i recently received information from RR incidating that the ARB will work in my 03 zr2 with 4.62's.  only problem is the price on the ARB!  i think i would be better off swapping the thirds and getting a lower gear then installing a lockright.  there is a guy who has been on this forum, ZR2, with a 2002 i believe that has done this.  i don't feel the lower gearing is that necessary as my power still feels fine but i would not hate the added benefit of slightly better gas mileage, more useable power and less mechanics than the air locker, ending up costing the same as a whole project.

ya some cheep 3rd member's with 5.12 gear outta a 1st gen would be the way to go anyways... should be more than enough to push a 31 inch tire if not a 33 even and it would get your speedo back close to spec... mine with 31 inch tires will be 11 mph off with stock gears "4.62" but with 5.12 gears it will only be 2 mph off... you gotta rip it apart anyways...  same with the front locker from trail tough you still have to get the gears set with that locker... buy a set of 3rd members and just bolt them right back in like ZR2 did... you wouldnt have to suffer any down time if you cant figure it out right away... or if you need a shop to set the gears for you

http://www.f-body.org/gears/ for figuring it out...
205's-235  from 4.62 to 4.88 will make you only 1 mph off, same with 4.88 to 5.12

just make sure its a
94-98 12 bolt rear with 26 spline
96-98 10 bolt front with 26 spline
and your stock axles shafts and cv's will go right in

if you do a front locker just be carful with rough conditions rain,ice,loose gravel.... but dont be intimidated by a locker in the front , i just drove in a tracker with locker in the front and on a wet road all he did was lock only one front hub that way if the rear went squirrely at all the front would pull him through it, just dont lock  both the fronts for street driving or both front and rear might get crazy in slick conditions... with just one locked  it will drive like normal and you will still have your shift on the fly 4wd aslong as one hub is locked, but you will need manaul hubs with a front locker, but they alone make a world of difference saving the CV shaft life by not spinnign all the time and making steering seem easier and lighter, might even save some gas millage outta it with less drag and rotating parts...
    dont get ripped off on price of hubs.. all suzukis except the really early "72-80 sj's lj's"" not sure if they even use hubs"  use the same hubs sammy's,trackicks,vitara,sunnrunners so you can use a set of factory manual hubs if you dont wanna dump alot of cash on premium warn's or something like that

Okay, this thread is making my head hurt.

The GVs upt to 2004-05, whenever the platform changed, all use the same carrier as the 12-bolt kicks.

LIKE I SAID, MY 2000 V6 GV HAS AN ARB IN IT AND THERE IS NOTHING DIFFERENT THAN A KICK.  THE GV 4.30 AND 4.88 GEAR WILL FIT THE ARB.

There, is that clear enuff for you?  The axles are 26 spline 1.06" diameter, JUST LIKE THE KICK AND SAMURAI.  Am I clearer now?

In fact, the rear diff sidegears FIT INTO A SAMURAI CARRIER, so a 1510 Lock-rite will fit, using stock sidegears and not the lock-rite couplers.  How do I know they fit in a Samurai carrier?  I've got them in the front of my Sammy.

Now, stop fretting.  If you want a rear locker and you have a I4 or a V6 GV, then order a 12-bolt ARB, a 12-bolt LSD or a 1510 lockright and be done with it.

Now for the XL7, you're screwed.  However, it is possible that the XL7 shares the same carrier as the Mistu Montero, as ARB lists the to as 28spline and the same diameter.  Since I don't have an XL, I'm not going to be the one to find out.

BTW - the pic that circulates the web showing the Sammy, Kick and XL diffs side-by-side is my pic.  Since I had my hands into all 4 different rear ends (Sam, Kick, GV and XL), I might just have a little insight here.

dont get ripped off on price of hubs.. all suzukis except the really early "72-80 sj's lj's"" not sure if they even use hubs"  use the same hubs sammy's,trackicks,vitara,sunnrunners so you can use a set of factory manual hubs if you dont wanna dump alot of cash on premium warn's or something like that

No, Sammy hubs will not work correctly on a IFS Zook, not a single one.  While they are almost the same, the Kick and Sammy have the c-clips in different places and the hubs are machined differently.

all the aftermarket hubs use the same part
Super winch
http://www.puresuzuki.com/Locking%20Hubs1.htm
http://www.puresuzuki.com/Locking%20Hubs.htm
http://www.puresuzuki.com/hubs.htm

same with Warn part numbers off there website and spidertrax list them as the same
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.98/.f

and mile markers
http://www.milemarker.com/hub-application.html

for the OEM sammy hubs on trackicks some people have put them on and they work some have had to mess with them to work because of the snap ring issue, i got a set of sammy hubs on the way so ill let you know but even if it does pinch the snap ring all you have to do with the stock sammy hubs is use a 1/8th spacer behind the hub so it doesnt pinch on the snap ring and force the shaft to turn"defeating the purpose", or you could run it without the snap ring... little risky but it would take alot for the axle to pull itself out...

Okay, this thread is making my head hurt.

me too

so when i put my new lift in in a few months i will pull the rear and put in the lockrite from my 90 (with a  93 12bolt rear) into the 04 v6 tracker and let you all know if it works.

There, is that clear enuff for you?  The axles are 26 spline 1.06" diameter

  clear as mud, ARB says 1.08 dia    thanks for your input YT!!

I'm a 4-5th year apprentice mechanic
What is a 3rd member?
"WOW"
Okay,I'll bite

Thanks  ... WOW is right, yeah I know, but I swear to doG it's true, I know all the internal parts of a diff but I never heard the term 3rd member before not in classes or in the shop.  I always just called it the diff (the whole thing that comes out of the rear axle.)

its still called a diff too... the differance is a 3rd memeber is a removable assembled differential, where a standard differential you have to assemble within the axle housing itself....

oh and i tryed the sammy front locking hubs and they fit fine... had to use a  factory cork gasket on it though it is a close fit, with the factory hub all they seemed to use was silicone to seal the hub to the wheel, it spins freely when unlocked no clicking but very close doubling up the gaskets wouldn't be a bad idea.

Also known as a "drop-out", or a "pig" or a "chunk".

my strut extender let loose and drove over my own tire...

Um.....what??  Please elaborate..

i was using a boondoxs strut extender... more commonly reffered to as a BDS strut extender... same thing boondox buys it from BDS... and while i was driving the strut extender cracked down the side letting the strut fall out of the mount... the wheel then of course tipped far outward and the bottom ball joint broke under the pressure the tire was only connected by the bent tie rod,sway bar, and brake line... fortunatley none of these were really expensive to fix...

the only problem was avalabilty the lower control arm i bought used off of ebay for 50 bucks i later found new units for sale new online for not too much more, the inner tie rod i also bought off ebay it acctually has more movement then the stock one did but i had to use a "vitara version replacement" no one listed a tracker on ebay and i couldnt find it at any outparts store in stock, NAPA was the only one that listed it in my area and it was back ordered... the outter tie rod end i bought from autozone i think its a duralast brand besides that it was the same issue eaither the parts stores didnt have it or it would be back ordered... so all in all it took about 2 weeks to gather all the parts i needed to get the vehical back together... the strut extender thankfully was replaced for free from boondox he said normally he wouldnt do that but being this seemed to be a freak accident and no one else has had a problem with the extender he was kind enough to replace it... while i was at it i replaced all the shock and struts to gabriel ultras... cheeper brand but ride great both front and rear are stock replacements with 2 inch extenders rides great now had it alligned the northstar camber bolts was enough for the driver side but odly not enough for the passenger side but the guys at tuffy cut me a deal and for half hour of labor they  slotted the strut enought to get it green again and replaced the driver side shock that i couldnt manage to get the bolt loose...

so it wasnt too bad the shocks and stuts needed to be replaced, I should have done it when i did the lift... but total cost for new shocks struts inner and outter tierods was about 325 dollars would have been twice that if i bought dealershop parts, and now it rides better than ever... im just glad it broke while i was at a mud bog instead of on the highway doing 70mph... im having the extenders welded to the strut at the seem just for extra security this time...