I'm seeing 5.2 quarts of 5w30 in my manual.

Should I run synthetic or is a quality regular oil good?  This one doesn't leak but it does have some "Class I" smudges around the bottom of the engine.
I ran 5w30 synthetic in my GV and XL7 but that was due to the 2.5L and 2.7L's infamous timing chain rattle issues.

I change my oil every 3000 miles and use a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter.

FWIW, I have been running Castrol 5W20 in the Trackers and our CRVs to date.  Winter and summer.

I'm in AZ and run straight 30 weight.

Winter additives are a waste here.

FWIW, I have been running Castrol 5W20 in the Trackers and our CRVs to date.  Winter and summer.

Synthetic or dino-goo?

I'll probably go to 5w30.  I like to stick to the factory recommended weights.

Actually, as I was pulling out this morning I noticed a few small oily spots where the front end would be.  Need to figure out where its coming from.

the 1.8's and 2.0's can have the same problem, fyi

I'm seeing 5.2 quarts of 5w30 in my manual.

Should I run synthetic or is a quality regular oil good?  This one doesn't leak but it does have some "Class I" smudges around the bottom of the engine.
I ran 5w30 synthetic in my GV and XL7 but that was due to the 2.5L and 2.7L's infamous timing chain rattle issues.

I change my oil every 3000 miles and use a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter.

Synthetic it is then.

AJM, check your passenger side diff seal to see if it is developing a Class I leak.  Buster's is in need of replacing and  will drip some gear lube if parked on an incline to the right.

Was under there last night.  Nothing struck me but I was in a bit of a hurry.

Random but you might check your lug nuts...looks like someone spun the fronts on with an impact and semi-cross threaded them.  Mushed the nuts all up but the studs are okay.
Also, did you change the transmission and transfercase lube?  Had what seemed to be gear oil in both.  Got some Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid and shifts MUCH better now.  I swear it's a bit zippier.

Changed the oil with 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic and a NAPA Gold filter.  Road trip this weekend.

I noticed the lugs were stiffer when I mounted the BFGs on Scout.  A thanks and a tip of the hat goes to the local Meineke shop on that one when they replaced the front hubs and rotors.  Real shops use torque wrenches to get precise torque settings instead of impact wrenches set-up for a constant 150 foot pounds of torque.  I use tack hammers to drive tacks, not sledge hammers.  I was honked off when I pulled the front wheels to change over the rims and the tires and noted the same when I tightened them.  The one point that softened my aggravation (somewhat) was that little piece of paper that warranties their hub and rotor work.  Over tightening the nuts can warp rotors... but in this case it didn't and Scout didn't get driven much after the repair.

As far as the gear oil goes, I always changed all the gear oil in the diffs, transfer cases and trannys on all of my trucks and I always used Castrol products.  I'm just kinda sold on their products although I do like the Royal Purple gear oil.  $17 per quart versus $8 per quart.... for a reason I guess.

As far as the gear oil goes, I always changed all the gear oil in the diffs, transfer cases and trannys on all of my trucks and I always used Castrol products.  I'm just kinda sold on their products although I do like the Royal Purple gear oil.  $17 per quart versus $8 per quart.... for a reason I guess.

This is an oil question, so I'm not really off topic here - ever watched the Castrol as you pour it out of the bottle - when you start it's a nice clear golden brown, keep watching, you'll find that quite often, as you get to the bottom, that nice clear golden brown develops a dark streak.

I no longer use Castrol product - it will sometimes form a sludge - in an unopened bottle, sitting on the store shelf - do you really want that in your engine/transmission/differential?

Don't take my word for it - when you open your Castrol, look down into the bottle - some will be fine and some will not.

I just recently had to go to a 20+ hour training on modern oils and the science involved. LEARNED ALOT! I will no longer think I'm smarter than the engineers and r&d departments of a automaker. with that being said I would run the factory recommended oil weights (and type) in what ever color bottle fits your fancy.

FWIW.... the class teacher said theres only a couple oil refinery's that produce motor oil. they then get shipped to factory's and repackaged (and sometimes PURPLE or RED dye is added) (the dye must be very expensive judging by some prices)

Synchromesh is what is recommended for the trans and T-case and 5w30 is the recommended engine oil.  I usually stick with the factory recommendations in a synthetic flavor unless it already leaks.

leaking oil has more to do with a bad gasket or seal vs. the oil..correct? I don't think I would put 90-140 in my engine to fix a bad gasket. or is there some myth about synthetic prone to leaking?

FWIW... the only difference with conventional and synthetic oil is MUCH higher grading. contrary to popular belief that it is some mystery pixie dust magic fluid.
what it is (according to the training dude) conventional oil has all different size molecules. synthetic oil has all uniform size molecules. and it does lube better due to the molecule flow between bearing clearances is much faster especially for newer tighter motors. so I guess its possible for it to leak easier too?

All I know is every higher mileage, preleaking dino goo oil engine I've ever seen synthetic put into has leaked more.  Always figured it was due to something with the synthetic's molecule size.

My '93 Tracker went from several Class II leaks with dino goo to about two constant near Class III leaks simply by me changing it over to Mobil 1 in the same weight (I happened to have an oil change worth of 5w30 Mobil 1 sitting in the garage).  Changed back to regular dino goo and the leaks decreased.  It was a $750 beater so I stuck with the dino goo after that.

leaking oil has more to do with a bad gasket or seal vs. the oil..correct? I don't think I would put 90-140 in my engine to fix a bad gasket. or is there some myth about synthetic prone to leaking?

FWIW... the only difference with conventional and synthetic oil is MUCH higher grading. contrary to popular belief that it is some mystery pixie dust magic fluid.
what it is (according to the training dude) conventional oil has all different size molecules. synthetic oil has all uniform size molecules. and it does lube better due to the molecule flow between bearing clearances is much faster especially for newer tighter motors. so I guess its possible for it to leak easier too?

Seems to me the training dude might have omitted a bunch of stuff - yes - conventional oil has different sized molecules, whilst synthetic has all uniform size - the mystery pixie dust magic lies in HOW you get all the molecules to be the same size.

It's called synthetic because they synthesize (make) it with the size molecules they need, as compared to naturally occurring conventional oil, which is extracted from the ground and refined.