I'm beginning to think these 2d gen vehicles are slightly different, or at least enough so that info for a Tracker might not be valid on a 'kick, depending on what you're talking about.

A few experiences on my 1999 chevy Tracker 2.0L in case someone searches here.

The Jeff's spacers went on fine; it has a strut brace so you need the extensions he includes in the kit.

But with that lift, the OEM shocks cannot be adjusted back to proper camber, which is =/- 1 degree. I got them close to one degree but only with rigorous slotting. You then need some beefy washers to cover the holes. I might weld them; seem to be holding. Mine are at the limit; aftermarket struts would probably give you more room to slot.

I installed some Doetsch 3000 shocks from Low Range Offroad in Utah (I can highly recommend them, BTW; we had some issues because Doetsch mislabeled some of the shocks but they set it right as fast as they could). I had to grind some on the rear shock mounts cuz at full drop they contacted the tube. In the process I noticed the mounts weren't symmetric, but with the flex of the bushings it doesn't matter. The metal brakelines need to be massaged a bit out of the way as well.

With the lift done, I added 15x7 alloy rims with a -6mm offset, and 30x9.5 BFG KM2s. I also added 1" Spidertrax wheel spacers. They fit without trimming wheel wells. I have got less than an inch clearance on the rear inside of the wheel at full lock; I doubt with this wheel offset that I'd get by without rub there. But you can surely find wheels with more offset. The tires now protrude an inch or so outside the wheel wells; I may have to get some flaps to be legal (and polite). Note that I have removed all the plastic, including inside the wheel wells. That might impinge more.

Aftermarket4x4's front skid went on easy peasy. His rear gas tank skid cover required a bit of metal work, however, as I had a piece of metal protruding into it.

I fitted minimal tube "bumpers" front and rear. the front is more like a glorified hitch receiver (actually it is a hitch receiver). It bolts onto the front frame rails (boy, are they THIN). It's as beefy as you can get, and the main purpose was the attached tow brackets. They end up being pretty high, like 25", which might be a problem for some. Again I removed the stock plastic and plastic. You need to fab some plates for a couple of electrical thingees, but otherwise you can leave much off. I'll probably make something to protect the lower radiator a bit.

In the rear we simply welded a plate to the bumperish crossbar at the rear between the frame rails. Again, the tube back there is really more of a guard for the receiver than anything. All plastic removed. The full sized KM2 spare just fits the mount on the door with a little rub. Which might actually be perfect, since it bottoms on the rear tube bumper and thus less strain on door.

I'll get some pictures after I paint up stuff. But I wanted people to know about fitment in case anyone is in the middle of a project related to this.

BTW, anyone completely seal up the air vents in the rear? I figure that's something I can live without.

Rob

Thanks for posting. How about posting some pics?

I'm confused by your alignment difficulties because with slotted struts I have plenty of room to adjust and then some. Like you said, it may be the factory struts.

I think if you cover up those vents at the rear you may find your ears popping when someone slams the door. I believe they are put there to let pressure out of the cabin. 

If you get rubbing when you take it off road (sounds like you might), consider a body lift.

I'm beginning to think these 2d gen vehicles are slightly different, or at least enough so that info for a Tracker might not be valid on a 'kick, depending on what you're talking about.

As far as I know, with the exception of the front brakes and wheel sizes (Trackers have smaller brakes & 15" rims, Vitaras/Grand Vitaras have larger disks and need 16" rims to clear them - of - there's no such thing as a second gen 'kick, the name was changed when the second gens were released) the differences are cosmetic and trim levels - different grille, different lights, plastic cladding & flares, roof rails, etc.

I'll get out some pics after painting.

I had posted earlier about the camber. The stock struts had a bit of metal around the tube that prevents travel. So you could make bigger slots but the travel is still limited because it bumps into the strut.

As far as I know, with the exception of the front brakes and wheel sizes (Trackers have smaller brakes & 15" rims, Vitaras/Grand Vitaras have larger disks and need 16" rims to clear them
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as far as i know any non "grand" vitara will fit 15" rims on, the grand vitara as bigger brakes due to the v6 engine extra weight.

Interesting - what engine do you have in yours and will 15" rims clear the calipers?  I have a 2.0 inline 4 that needs 16" rims.

what is the 15" rims comes from? i have tryed a set out of a 1998 suzuki sidekick and fit well, its is not rubbing but close. yes mine is also a 2.0L built for canada. maybe that would be it? i have never seen a 2.0L that dint fit a 15" rims so far in my area. might be from were they were built and shipped? i know 6 people that has no issue fitting 15" rims on a 2.0L vitara and none that had issues...

FWIW I installed 15's on my 2.0 vitara (assembled in Canada).  They need a wheel spacer to clear the hub but the brakes do not touch.

Turns out I was overly optimistic, or maybe as the suspension settled in I got more droop. In any case, the rear did end up rubbing the top of the rear. So I had to remove spacers, and that solved the rear, but I get a teensy bit of rub on the inside frame rail in the front now. Should go away, and easy to avoid. Much better than having a rear rub.

Anyway, here's pics: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjzBVxBf

Looks deadly man!  Did you fabricate those bumpers yourself?  That is exactly what I want to put on mine.  Nice job on the checker plating to cover those vents without plugging them, looks really nice man. Have you taken it offroad yet?  You may find it still rubs when you wheel it.  When I had 2" susp lift and 225/75/16 (29.5") there was no problem around town but offroad it still rubbed on the front fenders.  As for frame rub i have 1" wheel spacer PLUS larger offset rims and I still have some frame rub, but I agree it really doesn't matter.

Thanks; and no, I helped design the bumpers but Any Seven Offroad in San Leandro CA made them. No way I could bend that tube or jig it up well enough, although I could probably have welded it if they'd given me the pieces. But welding it was the easy part once the cutting was done.

I've now tested at the limits of suspension, and the inside frame rail rub I can live with. I might hit a back tire if I go really highside and get some body flex, but again I can live with that. It's kinda hard to chop the rear fenders because you'd probably have to reweld them. The rear vent covers were originally set to stand off...but I discovered that even if I seal theme there's so much air swishing around with a softtop it doesn't matter. I may need to get a helmet with a ventilation system if I follow too many people in the dust....

Rob

You could always add the xl7 springs in the rear at some point if it's rubbing too much back there. I needed them because i tend to fill my truck with gear or pull a boat trailer a lot. Gives like 3/4" lift and stiffer ride.  Or add one of those 1" spacers from rocky road...