all i can say to this WOW!!! call the dealer for a new oil pan. 148$ canadian it was not that bad, but once i got under the dam thing i notice one problem, were the heck you start to install that pan. by the look of it i have only two option. #1 remove the transmission,exaust,clutch assembly,fuel line,clutch fan and lift the engine out to put the new pan in. or #2 witch will need to remove my rack and pinion and its hoses,fron cv shaft and front differential. the dealer told me the best way is removing the steering rack and front diff. starting the job tomorrow. what do i feel about it? well we are having 25-40cm of snow over the weekend so i have a case of beer chilling in the fridge. its gona be a long day and i beleve a long night too if everything is seized in rust.

if anybody looking to buy a tracker/vitara i suggest to look the oil pan condition.if its rusted bad its a big price to replace it unless you can do it yourself!! my vitara had rocker panel rust but non elsewere. the frame is mint also. funny that the pan is so rusty.anyways i might take a few picture tomorrow of sum of my work if i dont forget my camera at home. i havent found a oil pan tread with pictures anywere

Been a few forum members experiencing the oil pan rust issue.  I read one of their experiences and decided to go out and check mine, even though I habitually rub the lower frame members with an oily rag when I change the oil.  Sure enough... rust had started on the forward edge of my sump.  I sanded it down, Xylol'd the surface and coated it with Rusroleum black.  So far, so good.  I think it was Rock Auto that had oil pans for these for like $89.  I don't know how that translates over the border to Canada.  It is kind of frustrating we are "free trading" with everyone in the world but still have significant tax barriers between Canada and the U.S.  Lines of communications between the two are so short to boot.

I replaced mine last year because of rust and it was a pain to do in comparison to other cars.  I removed the front diff/axle assembly completely and then had to unbolt the steering rack too.  However, I only unbolted the steering rack and moved it slightly to the side.  I did not need to remove any of the lines going to it or the steering shaft so that part really wasn't that bad.

While you have the front diff/axle out I'd suggest replacing the seals on each end of it.  You can actually leave the cv shafts connected at the hubs and simply slide the diff/axle out of the car - if you have questions post up.

After you get everything out of the way and actually go to remove the pan, you have to let it drop down an inch or two and then carefully reach inside to unbolt the oil pick up.  Let the pick up drop into the pan and then remove those two parts from the car together. 

well i am done changing this and if i have to do it again id remove the engine instead. i have removed the driver side axle, steering rack and steering shaft as mine was seized to the rack, the passenger side cv shaft was a pain in the a#$ i just left it on the diff and took the passenger side spindle out or the way. i also had to take out my oil pickup to remove the pan. but on the bright side i have done a complete check on every steering and suspenssion parts. every thing is good.

i really think it would be quicker removing the engine that removing all the other stuff from the truck.it took me 2 days and working on it with a very bad cold. had the pepermint snap on my side all the time 

How does your frame look?  My main cross member under mine (not the bolt in one the actual frame) has hole in it. Not too happy right now.

mine on the passenger side wheel well you can see the rack and pinion crossmember, mine is missing a part of that fat bead of weld about an inch of it anyways. the rest of the frame has no holes anywere at all. i have another one for parts witch is in good shape too but has a rust patch to fix on the floor, the floor is fine but the reinforcement has rusted out a bit on the passenger side and of course the rocker panels.

i know the older ones were bad for frames on the back arch, were all the pipes were welded on.