you could pull a plug (#1), put a wad of paper
of stuff a rag into the hole, ground the coil
wire to something (off the cap) and crank
the starter until you hear the compression
pop the rag out, then turn the engine counter
clockwise and line up the mark on the pully and
timing belt cover, now hook up wires starting at #1
where the rotor is pointing and go around clockwise

And yes, the rotor needs to fit into the notch in the
distributor right or it will not run

Oh man, thanks for all that info but I don't think I can handle that.  I'm calling a nearby mechanic over first thing tomorrow morning.  I don't understand, I've done this stuff before and never had a problem.  I changed spark plugs, PCV valve, oil, oil filter, cleaned the K&N filter and that about it.   It's just sensless...Unless I fucked things up when I started the engine in with the wires in the wrong order.  Now it's going to cost me a fortune to get this crap fixed.  What a nightmare...and only because I was too stupid to take note of where which wire goes where.   

I don't think you messed anything up, I think you
just have some problems with your fireing order
and wire locations. If I were there, I could have
you running in 5 Min, providing something else
isn't bad

Oh I know you could, you are probably the most learned guy on this web site.  Watch the mechanic take 3 hours to figure out what it is tomorrow.   

I'm just going to try a tinker a little bit more and then forget it.

This crap had to happen just days before my little road trip to Buffalo NY and London ON...

Well it could be worse, I guess.  *sighs*

Thanks again Wildgoody, you are the best.

I'll update this thread tomorrow when all is said and done.

Well we need to get you to the point where
you can pull the valve cover and adjust your
valves, and get that motor timed, it's all really
basic stuff, don't let the never have done it get
you nervous about doing these things, some
day out in the woods on a trail you might need
to do these things to get going again

Good Luck
Wild

First thing is calm down. Wild has given you all the info you need to fix this. It really is basic stuff...stuff you need to know how to do, if you are going to continue driving a zook without a mechanic bleeding you dry. I believe you can do this, but you must follow Wilds instructions exactly. There are many here to help...

Were the new wires ready to install out of the box ? Do they all have metal tips under the rubber boots

Is the new cap cracked or warped in any way ?

Does the new cap still have the spring loaded metal contact in the center of the cap ?

Are the new plugs the same brand and part# as the old ones ?

Pull your plugs and check the electrods are they gaped correct ?

... It is going to be something very simple to fix...

You need to rotate your motor  to top dead center on # one plug. When you are there the rotar will be pointing at # one cylinder... Thats what Wild was telling you with the wad of paper trick....

Dont give up and we wont...we have all been there in your shoes and we didn't know squat either....

Are any of the plugs electrods smashed closed ?

Check your distributor ...is it loose at all? Before you move it at all mark it with  typewritter white out or make a knife scratch. Well if it is loose you have probably already moved it replacing the wires.

Well things weren't as bad as I thought they were... The mechanic came over to my house this morning and took a look at it.  He tried wiring it a different way on the cap but still no start.  He then reached down to the lower pulley where the fan belt goes around and physically turned it to the left with his hands.  Got a little bit going.  Rewired the cap again and cranked the the engine for about 20 seconds, got it running, but it sounded loud and was spewing smoke out the end cause of all the gas that had flooded the engine.  But when he let go of the accelerator, it died again.  He then rewired it one last time and started her and BINGO...she's back to normal again.  I was so friggin relieved.  He only charged me $20 but I gave him $40 cause I like I said I was so relieved...

As it turns out, this is the correct wiring on the cap.  The actual number represents the cylinder that wire leads too.



Does anybody know what that little nob type thing does between wires 3 and 4?

Again thanks for all your info Wildgoody and you too Gary Hill.  Hopefully this info will be useful for some else in the future.

the little "knobby thing" is the vent on the distributor cap...theorictically lets "ionized air" escape...FWIW

Zag

the little "knobby thing" is the vent on the distributor cap...theorictically lets "ionized air" escape...FWIW

Zag

And in practice lets water in 

the little "knobby thing" is the vent on the distributor cap...theorictically lets "ionized air" escape...FWIW

Zag

Oh I see! It baiscally turns, should I have it pointing to where the air can escape easily?

The cap should only go on one way!

Zag

I thought about venting a little turbo boost
into the Dizzy for those deep water crossings
 

Wild

the air combined with heat would either keep it dry or melt it 
you try it and let us know how it goes, wild 

jason

After the intercooler would be cool enough air,
but a little gasoline in there might be a bit of
a bang 

Wild