Very good thread. Great read, and I actually learned something on the internet!

Still waiting on pics, though

Has the information you've gotten been helpful?

Oh yea! ... my only critisism would be your pics suc ... but is a great guide for an engine buildup.

What did I miss?

Well, I'd like to see some dyno ...

What do you think I did wrong?

Nothing I can see. Perhaps tips on how to "cut the budget". Or, more where someone can save some buks (aka is the shave necessary? Or can I do without XYZ and still get a good hp boost without all the machine shop charges. I don't think any of the work you did was "wrong" just where and where not to penny pinch. You didn't bore either?

PLEASE...questions, comments, feed back

So far, this has been "general" engine workup to me (others may get more ...).

I'd say I really want that next step of ...
what cam?
which header? (or does it really matter)
when porting is there curves that should be addressed? (or is it just too thin to play with)
What's a good TBI spacer do? Good, bad, nothing?
Are their performance gains from better fuel delivery? (aka bigger injectors for the TBI? wildgoody?)

Not trying to be a PITA, but you asked  

Ring end gap...are you ready?

This is the gap we want to measure when the ring is in the bore



First we put the ring in the bore....



Then square it with a piston....



Now measure with a feeler guage, check the manual for the exact end gap measurement...




Repeat 2-3 times in the top 80mm of the bore...
Repeat with all the rings in all the bores...


Now finish installing the pistons and buttoning the engine up....

PS....

Sorry about having to use a dummy block, but I got carried away did all the measuring and installed the pistons before I remembered to take pictures, thats what took so long was to find enough parts around the shop to duplicate the proceedure.

Thanks

Zag

One thing Zaggy you did not cover the alignment of the Rings you need to make sure the gap is not aligned, most motors its is 180 out from each other, otherwise you get a big compression leak.

how do you usualy align the rings?

could you run a MSD 6(A or AL, don't care about rev-limiter) ignition with this set up?  just give me some thoughts about extra power, ect..

is there anything else you would recommend to do to the engine you havn't already touched on?

are you going to show use how to properly break in the engine?

stu

 Ã‚    So now you have all the information to do it yerself and wind up with a 90-94hp custom built engine....

Well heres the one I built while we were playing away...



The guy in the picture is my right hand man Mike...


    So whats wrong with this picture

1) No intake, exhaust or ignition installed
2) Sammi valve cover
3) Metro oil pan stuck on
4) Haven't finished installing the pulleys etc.
5) Painted spark plugs and sending units

Heres why.....

    I got so excited about doing this project I didn't realize I didn't have anything to put it in (ooopppsss)....

1) I haven't bought the header yet and don't know
   what I'm putting it in so I left the intake off
2) Valve cover.....I like the Sammi one better and had
   one so I used it.
3) Oil pan.....don't know what I'm putting it in so stuck a
   Metro one on with no pick up to store it  
4) Haven't put on the pulley's and stuff till I find
   something to put it in.
5) Spark plugs and sending units are junk ones stuck in
   to keep the paint from getting in the threads.


    So basically we are done the engine....and I would like your input like I asked for earlier.

    I'm going to take a short break and then review your comments and questions, answer what I can and decide what to do next.

Zag

Mythose

    Thanks for catching me on the ring alignment, I forgot to mention it, but you did a fine job of doing it for me cause thats exactly how I do it.

1bigtracker

    I personally don't think at this level of tune theres much if anything to gain by going to one of the MSD or similar systems, some folks may rightly differ with me, but I think at this level of mod the ignition system I outlined will more than do the job...save your money for stage2.

Excellent questions and points guys, Mythose...thanks for catching my omission...

Thanks everyone....Please keep the comments coming so I can do a follow up.

Zag

so your building a rig for the engine now right

stu

Mmmmm.......what else do we need to cover?   How about we start to look at a 16v with some high compression pistons (Honda pistons, D15 or D16 maybe) or maybe we resleeve for a big bore (78mm Miata pistons)

Hey Snofalls

    To cover some of your questions and points...

1) Pics suck....hey the last ones were better, I'm finally
   figuring it out.
2) Dyno time is tooooo expensive right now, **** I
   shouldn't have built the engine, but I got excited.
3) Tips to cut cost...I tried to show a realistic build with
    the engine I had, but I will do a post on a best case
    senairio.
4) Boring, sure we did .5mm over, the boring cost is in
   there.
5) The cam is one I get from a local grinder, I'm his
    guniea pig...cost is 199.00, 226 duration/.395 lift, I'll
    let you know how it works.
6) Header? Don't know what it's going in cause I got
   ahead of myself but they will all perform about the
   same at this level as long as they meet the  
   requirements of my earlier notes.
7) Porting, I didn't want to go too far on this engine as
    it wasn't needed to hit the power target and should
    really be a thread of it's own.
Spacer for TBI, I covered this as well as I could till I
    get a chance to do some real world testing, I'm sure
    it will help but I don't know how much.
9) Fuel delivery and other....you bet this is all neat stuff
   that I hope we can get to on a stage 2 project, but
   for now I have to lick my wounds as I shouldn't have
   built this one...I'm temporaily cash deficent now.

10) PITA...I don't think so, you've brought up a bunch of
     great stuff that we should follow up on later,
     besides there's no such thing as a bad question.
     Like Myhtose I apprecaite you're keeping me
     honest, I never would have realized the FI
     advantage for xtrme off road and rock crawling
      if I hadn't listened and then watched the MOAB
     videos.

Keep the questions and comments coming....

Thanks

Zag

Zag,
Thanks for all the great info. Now I have a down to earth guide as I tear mine apart instead of just reading the FSM I'm sure I will have plenty of questions and comments as I go through mine (when ever I get some time)

Later,
Zig

Morning all

    A few guys have asked about where you could cut corners on the "do it yerself engine build". It really depends on how your engine measures out.

    There was really no way for me to skip anything because I started with a really shot engine, but if you are starting with a well worn good runner here are a few places you may not have to spend money.

- Reboring, if your engine is in spec you can
 Save some here       re use pistons............119.00
                                          don't bore block.........110.00

- If your oil pressure was good before hand
 and your pump measures out ok
                                   no oil pump...............119.00

- If it was a good runner, no knocks etc and
 measures ok              no resize on rods......  60.00

- Camshaft, still keeping a torquer cam I have
 seen them as low as $99.00 as a regrind....100.00

-  Exhaust, a good srounger could save up to..100.00

Total possible savings.......................$608.00

    The parts I sell are top quality and I give a really
good deal so I don't think there is anything to save there unless you sacrifice quality.
    The rest of the machine work I consider a must and the shop I use gives pretty darn good deals.

    That said, if you're a good scrounger, you go for a reground performance cam and start with a real good engine you could cut cost from

- around $2000.00
        down to
- around $1400.00

    But be super careful with your measuring.....
                       
                            AND

    "Budget for the worst and hope to get the Best"

Thanks

Zag

Words from the wise, budget for the worst hope for the best,
and always have fun. and be safe.

PS, next  I think you should build a 4WIS,4WS trail rig, out of 2 old track - kicks.  if they come in salvage? you coule always cut the backs off and tube it up like WildWeasel, other then that, a little fab work, some good old injanuity "which you should have to build an airplane"

, maby a photography class

and the cost of a good welder, "new clutch" some used 31" tires, "or just stock wheels,  welder rods,  probably take you a few weeks, and bout  2grand,  but it would be ONE OF A KIND.

This is a good thread thoe reallly good.

So............

    Prd|removethispart|@BCdn has offered me a Parts kick thats rusted out and I have taken him up on his graious offer.......

From an engine stand point heres what I'm thinking:
- Get it road worthy and install this engine on the TBI
  with everything described in the build up.
- Get 0-60 times to prove the hp beyond the shadow of
 any doubt and set some base lines. (I already know
 the answer but it's nice to prove it)

Then......
- Air Intake mods with results posted
 (eliminate that aluminium intake tube, good aircleaner
   system beyond just the cone that I know will
   work...as you can see I think Rhinoman is right that it
   may be a restriction.)
Then......
- Effects of TBI spacers 1"-2"-3", with results posted
Then......
- Computer mods, chip, reprograming with results
 posted ( I have a friend that wants to try it)
Then......
- Dual Stromberg carb set up, results posted
Last.......
- Multi port injection system, hand built, results posted

What do you guys think?

Zag

I got one more ...

What about the "emissions" crud ... specifically the EGR. I haven't studied the usage on this engine, but curious if some gain can be achieved by ditching some of that.

May need to be a reversable mod in order for some folks to pass, but even without the crud I'd bet it would still be clean.