Since I know way more about photography than engine building, here is what you need to help your pictures. Use the flash, (it may be turned off), or use a tripod for the lowlight situation you are in.
I am glad to be able to finally give to this forum, for I have taken much knowledge. Thanks everyone
Jeff

Thanks for the tips guys I'll try them tonight

Zag

OK Now you've got the head all apart lets check some stuff.

- Rockers, the face that meets the cam and the tip that
 contacts the valve should be nice and smooth, if there
 are any gouges, ridges or rough ness you need to get
 them replaced or find good ones. (new or used)
 (see pic for example of good one)


pic coming later


- Rocker shafts should also be smooth no gouges or
 wear. Same deal if they are damaged, replace them
 (see pic for example)

pic coming later


- We won't be reusing the cam, but if you are it should
 meet the same description as above.
- The cam bearing surfaces in the head should also
 appear smooth and nice, never seen one that didn't.


Now keep cleaning while I figure out how to get this camera to work.

Zag

 Ã‚    So the head and it's parts are all cleaned up waiting for the machine shop....lets go to the short block

    We are going to start by marking everything...
- The main bearing caps are marked from the factory and
  even have little arrows so you know where they go
-  The rods have the nice little arrows but nothing else
  so using a small sharp punch and hammer we need to
  mark the caps 1 thru 4 from the front of the engine.
  Then a mark on the rod and the cap on the same side
  so you know to match tem up....fool proof





- Now we measure the side clearance on the rods using
 a feeler guage



- And the same for the crank end play



-  Before removing the pistons and rods, plastiguage
  the bearings and record the clearances

-  Now check the cylinder bores for any appiciable ridge,
  if there is any it MUST be removed with a ridge reamer
  before trying to remove the pistons. Now Suzuki
  bores are really good and it is rare that there has
  been aridge I've needed to remove
-  Now following your manual remove the pistons and
  rods, Reassemble correctly as soon as they are out.
-  Now remove the rings and do a quick clean up on the
  pistons so we can check piston clearance.
-  Using a feeler guage check 3 or 4 places around the
  piston in the bore. Like the picture.



-  Now your can remove the caps and plastiguage the
  bearings to check clearances, record them and clean it
  up, Now remove the oil pump and finally remove the
  crank when done it shop be nice and clean, then    
  spray with WD40 or similar



-  All the surfaces should be nice and smooth no divots
  or lines. If there are any it's crank turning time.

- Now go back and look at the bearings, they should
 look like new (see mains on right) not scratched and
 scuffed (rod bearing on left)




Now you follow the manual and dissaaemble the rest, all the while saving all those nuts/bolts etc in the carefully marked containers.

    When done you should have a nice clean bare block with main caps, pistons and rods set aside and everything clearly labeled and clean.

    Now take you meassurements and compare against the clearances in the manual. This will determine if you need a rebore, crank turned etc, and give the machine shop a guide as to what specs they need to go to.

Next the parts list.

Zag

So guys how about some feed back....

-  The pics are getting better

But what do you think? Any questions, comments, b**ches or gripes

Tonight I will put together the parts list and post it.

Zag

Here we go with the parts list

    From all the measuring we have done I have determined what I already expected
1) Gotta rebore and square the top of the block
2) Gotta turn the crank
3) I always do the full meal deal on the head
   - Guides
   - Surface
   - 3 angle grind
   - Check spring heights and pressures

   Being lazy and not having all the tools I let my favorite
   machine shop do all the head work and check springs
   etc.

   - In addition we will take close to .030 off the head to
     get a little more snap on the c/ratio.

I'll post the machining bill when the goodies come back.

Now for NEW parts

- Pistons +.5mm                        119.00
- Rings +.5mm                             64.00
- Rod bearings +.25mm               32.00
- Mains +.25mm                           41.00
- Thrust washers                           8.50
- Oil pump (new)                        119.00
- Full gasket set                         170.00

- Timing belt                                 22.00
- Timing belt tensioner                 27.00
- Water pump (new)                    44.50

Total                                           647.00

    These are my regular prices across the counter to my customers. I almost always replace the pistons and oil pump, but quite honestly alot of people reuse both if they are within spec. But like I said I'm not taking any short cuts. All the parts are OEM quality or better.

    Now the machine shop I use is backed up by about a week so lets use this time to talk about porting, intake systems, ignition systems, camshafts, headers and other ways to hit our target horse power.

Zag

Zag, this is going to be great for a lot of people. Keep it coming.  

So guys how about some feed back....

-  The pics are getting better

But what do you think? Any questions, comments, b**ches or gripes

Tonight I will put together the parts list and post it.

Zag

I think you are doing very well, keep it up!  i've been following this ever sence it started, nice detail to everything.

stu

So.....
    The engine is torn down, all your parts are cleaned, measured, labeled and laid out so you remember where everything is.
    The block, crank, pistons & rods and cylinder head are off to the machine shop and you are sitting back enjoying a cold one.

      Don't have the cold one till all the rest is done.

    Lets look at how we are going to get that extra 10hp
we are after.

    The first thing you MUST realize is an engine is no more or less than an air pump....period. The more air it can pump the more power it will make. The number of cams, pistons and everything else is irelavent.

               IT IS ALL ABOUT MOVING AIR

    The single biggest cork in the system on this engine is the exhaust (like most japanese engines). The stock exhaust manifold and exhaust system is way to small for the amount of air that this engine can move.

    On the engine itself a good header is ESSENTIAL and needs to be backed up by at least a 2" system. I prefer 2 1/4". For you guys in emmision land be sure to put a CAT in the system, dyno testing by many highly reguarded engine builders has shown that a properly sized CAT doen't cost any power.
    Visit the local Auto Dismantler and search for a CAT that has the same inlet and outlet as the exhaust system you will be using. Most wreckers keep CATS seperately and will let you sort through them. Expect to pay around $40.00 for a used one from adoemestic vehicle. Don't balk, in the business wreckers get about $20.00 apiece as cores from wholesalers and metal dealers.
    Match that with a good quality Turbo muffler from the
local Auto Parts store. Now put the system together yourself or visit your favorite Muffler Shop.

    Now what will you spend and gain....
- Header, depending on brand..................$200.00
- Used CAT.................................................$  40.00
- Turbo Muffler...........................................$   30.00
- Install at local shop.................................$ 150.00

- Total........................................................$420.00

    The real world gain on this change is going to be around 7hp.
    Now don't feel disappointed, that is a huge jump
and the best performance bang for the buck you will get.

    Put it into context...thats a 8.75% jump for only
   $48.00 per horse power. Less if you do the install
   yourself and get a Buddy to do the welding.

Later today we will talk about header selection....

Zag

Header selection...

    First of all get a header that has properly shaped ports...believe it or not there are headers out there that have round ports to fit on the square prots of the head....this brings a whole new meaning to waste of time.
    Second, longer primaries are better for low end torque. (primaries are the first tube from the head down).
    Beyond that you are looking for quality. Good clean welds. At least a 1/4" manifold flange, smooth mandrel bent tubes.
    Fancy design, equal length, tri Y is all pretty redundant at this low level of tune...stick to the basics and you will do just fine. Good Quality and fit is what counts.

    Finish is a place to pay some attention. There is a place for ceramic and powder coating as they will make your header last longer.

    Now I have to go header shopping, any suggestions?

To this point I've only used Calmini's header...anybody have good luck with something else? And where did you get it...I'm in Northern Alberta, Canada not lots of selection here.


Zag

Now lets look at the intake side....

     When the head gets back we will port match and clean up the runner but I will go into detail when we get there.
    Basically we will make sure that everything lines up and there are no obvious restrictions on the runners and ports.

    Why? Remember what we said, the ENGINE IS AN AIRPUMP, anything you do to let it more more air will produce more power. Simple isn't it.

    But while we are waiting for the head lets work on the intake.

    Clean it absolutely throughly inside and out, remove the throttle body and sensors before you start! When  finished it should look like NEW!

    Feel around the inside of the ports and runners for really rough edges and casting flash (the thin overhang like on plastic model kits). Anything that is rougher than about 60 grit sand paper or that blocks the flow of air is going to need corrected....mark them with a felt marker we will do some pics on how to fix them.

    Clean all your sensors using a fuel injection safe cleaner and lots of patience..when done they should look like new.
    Same with the throttle body...becareful of all the electric and don't mess with any adjustments, that opens a new can of worms.
    When done all this stuff goes into our carefully marked containers.

    It will be a bit to my next post, I've got real work to do and have to get set up to do pictures.

    Till then I would really like some feed back...please.
Is the format working, is it good information, can everyone follow my explanitions.

QUESTIONS, COMMENTS...NEED INPUT!

Zag

Zag,

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I'm really interested in this thread so far.

The entent of my engine rebuilding experience has been just a re-ring and cylinder hone.  Probably should have done more and been more careful but it was a chevy vega

Anyway, for those of us who are newbies to this process, would you explain more about how to use plastigage?

Thanks,
Paul
 

Plastiguage is a wonderful thing.

    It is basically a calibrated plastic strip that comes in different readings, check you engine clearance specs before buying.
    you break a piece off and place it lenght wise across the surface you are measuring. replace the bearing cap and torque it to spec. Now reverse the process remove the bearing cap and compare the width of the plastiguage to the chart on the package and you've got your clearance.

Thanks for the question

Zag

Really good info, I should have done my motor in this way, but Money did not allow, i did this to my mustang, but i enjoy reading the post, Awsome information, and I am taking notes about getting more power out of my little motor.  Which runs awsom after redoing the head.

I have a 16v.  The exhaust manifold looks very much like a tube header.  Will replacing it with a Calmini header (only place I know that makes them for 16v) really gain me anything?

I feel rather stuck with the cat.  My engine is OBD II and would be rather pissed without a cat.

The rest of the exhaust is a soda straw and needs to be upgraded anyway!  (looking at Calmini once again as I can get their cat back cheaper than a shop will build me one.)

Cwkick