The 2 reasons for the drop bracket is
1. the proportioning valve in the rear
is not giving enough pressure to the
rear brakes (89 SideKick I don't know
about all the years)

2. The balljoint is at it's limit, and if you
know balljoints, they don't take much
pressure and they pop apart

I also rotated the rear axle to push the
Slip Yoke farther into the trans to help
with wear, if it's out a long way it will
start wearing the bushing in the rear.

As far as the driveshaft angles, what I
know is that this setup points the input
on the diff straight towards the trans thru
the entire travel range, this is my "ideal"
setup, and what I wanted

I would recommend rotating for all lifts,
the rotating is not for just driving, or drags,
but for the full extension of the suspension
system.

Wild

is this really needed?  i have a 2.5" body & a 3" sus lift and have never noticed anything wrong.  have i just gotten lucky?  convince me that i need one and i will be in.

needed? well as wild said, with lift things are geting put to limits. I noticed a "need" from some simple articulation tests (the center link was contributing to lack of rear travel).

Sometimes every little bit helps. Other limits do/will come into play for me, but this is just one of them

My problem with rotating the pinion is that the pinion and output shaft are no longer parallel (perhaps an equal change in the output shaft would be the best). Without those angles being "parallel, and yet slightly offset", vibration *will* occur (it might be slight or unpreceivable, but the physics of a double ujoint driveshaft implly it).

Dropping the diff will pull the shaft a small bit further out from  the tcase, but with a 3 link, that's not as big a deal as it might be with leafs.

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=pt_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cabrito.suzukioffroad.com.br%2fUpper%2520wishbone.htm

i do this  
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/302365/6

OK, here is the skinny scoop on the group
buy rear ball joint spacer, I got a price for
punched holes in the plates, and it's based
on a buy of 12 spacers

There is no real difference in price between
a 2" and a 3" drop spacer, so for the group
buy the price will be the same, the difference
is actually $.30 in steel

All spacers are built with a rear axle rotation
built into it, I have been running this way for
about 150,000 miles, I don't think there is a
problem that will manifest it's self from unequal
output and input angles of the driveshaft.

Spacer Price :  $42
Shipping to be figured as per Zip Code

There needs to be at least 12 orders to
start the group buy, more is OK

Now Taking orders

Wild

Put me down for one for sure ...

(wonder if trail tough or another vendor would get a few for stock?)

i want one too!

i dont think that pic of the one from zuwharrie.com will work, the blolt holes are not off set....

everyone thinking of turning their pinion up   please click on this link and read carefully. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

So you put a DC in the end when
you do a SYE and problem solved

The point you bring up could be valid,
but my expieriance with over 100,000
miles says this is not a major problem,
and I have no driveline problems or
viberations, the spacer points the diff
flange at the T-case all the time, no
matter where the axle is in it's articulation

There are many of us on the BBS that have this MOD with no problems out of it (thanks to Mr Hagen ) I have also put alot of miles on mine and all still seems fine. I'm hoping to put it to the Cross country to Moab test in a couple of months.

Zig

My 2 cents.

I had a bad vibration on decell and damaged 2 transmissions before I realized the problem.

I over rotated the axil so that the angles were the same and it made a big difference.

Note:  I also did a frame lift and my transmission is 3" above everyone elses with a Calmini 3" suspention lift.  So thats rughly 6  + inchs above stock.

I guess some Suzuki's do not have to abide by the law of physics .    this dosent even mention the traction LOSS that comes with pointing the pinion up . run a pinion angle serch on the web and look at the drag cars . pinion pointed way down . this makes a huge traction difference . this is just my own expierience , i am not trying to make any arguments or foes . I just think an offset spacer is a bad idea that seems like a good one until further reserched . I have had several lifted vehicles over the past 15 years and have alot of expierence in this matter . Thankx guys

i would still love to have a turbo on my sidetracker !

I would take one but I do NOT want the pinion offset . If  the pinion is turned upward you MUST use a constant velocity joint in the driveshaft . Also pinion angle IS directly related to traction . ( I drag race also ) You would not believe the difference pinion angle makes in traction .

More true with leafs then with coils and control arms..

~Nate

That was my thought too Nate.

So when I do my SYE I'll stick a
Toyota DC joint in there, I'll let
you know if it helps or not, I did
notice that the vibration I do get
is when the Slip Yoke is hanging
out of the Trans too far, which is
the reason for the rotated diff  

I know you aren't trying to make
any foes or arguments here, and
you are in reality expressing your
concern that this could lead to other
problems, and to relook at this mod
part. I would agree it would be best
to keep the driveline at the optimum
equal input/output angles, this would
work much better if we all had Slip Shafts
instead of Slip Yokes, but that is not the
case, and the problems of overcoming
the slip yoke and creating lift have to be
weighed and compromises have to be made,
this being one of them, and being better
than a worn tailshaft bushing, or worst yet
a popped out Slip Yoke on the trail from being
a little over flexy

Perfect it ain't, works well it does

Wild