ok another build up question
I have figured out that I'm getting the sky spoa kit.
now I am looking at gearing. I was wondering if I go with the 5.38 R&P which transfer case gears should I use? would still like to be able to do highway driving. and I was looking at 31 or 33 inch tires.
The type of wheeling I do is trail driving this has been by far the most fun to me also I do like to climb hills.

Any Information would be helpful
 Thanks Bash

The 5.38 R&P would give you an overall gear ratio of 7,58 standard is 5,26 So that'd mean 40% reduction.
31" tyres are 16% bigger than stock and 33" are 24% bigger.
So I think Hway driving would be possible but it might be a little under geared.
If I've calculated something wrong, sorry  
I've just used a chart for this but maybe some-one having this set up could be more specific on the hway driving...  
Good luck  

I'm running a 4.10 t-case and 4.62 diffs and I'm just about spot on for 33's.  I'm running 31's (moving up to 33's as we speak) right now and I seem to run a little high on the revs at highway speeds.
I'd look at running 4.16's in the t-case myself.  5.12's and a 6.1 t-case seems to be a little too much gear, but thats just baised off of my buddies sami.  
But, someone running this combo will probably dissagree with me.  You know how that goes...lol.

ok another build up question
I have figured out that I'm getting the sky spoa kit.
now I am looking at gearing. I was wondering if I go with the 5.38 R&P which transfer case gears should I use? would still like to be able to do highway driving. and I was looking at 31 or 33 inch tires.
The type of wheeling I do is trail driving this has been by far the most fun to me also I do like to climb hills.

Any Information would be helpful
 Thanks Bash

That is going to be way too much gear for a 31 or 33 tire. a 5.38 is actually a perfect ration for 35's and a stock Sammi t-case. I ran this setup before the low t-case gears started hitting the market. The RRO 6:1 case gives you 24% reduction in hi gear and that will put you spot on for a 33 inch tire. If you want to install t-case gears AND ring & Pinion gears I would get a 4:1 case and run the 4.62 r&p gears.

Best of luck and if you want to read up on t-case gears here is an article I wrote a while back.

http://www.zuwharrie.com/content/view/15/27/

great article thanks.
this raises another question where do I figure out what ring and pinion gears for what size tire?

oops!! I typed 3.38 and meant 5.38. I fixed it. Sorry :-/

anyone know what randy's charges for ring and pinion gears?

  I am running 5.38's with a 4:1 tcase and 33's with a f.i. 1.3l. It is no speed demon and can reach 60-65ish. If you crawl up hills or rocks you would want this combo.  I cant believe NC zuk did not burn up his clutch with 33's and stock tcase gears with 5.38's, hmm. must of seen alot of street driving .
   For summer rock crawling I have my 6.5 tcase and with this combo I can play with the yota dual tcase rigs. On the other hand driving it on hiway is a pain. Not something I want to do on a regular basis or on a suspect motor.
   Looking back at it now 5.13's and 4:1 tcase would be ideal for a wheeler with 33's.

 Ã‚ I cant believe NC zuk did not burn up his clutch with 33's and stock tcase gears with 5.38's, hmm. must of seen alot of street driving .
   

Well, some people can't imagine a time when there were no lower case options except a 410 case But we survived

I wouldn't bother with the ring and pinion myself, staying with stock gears makes it that much easeir to find replacement parts.  There are so many transfer case options now you don't really need to drop your diffs unless you want your low range to stay high geared.

You have the 4.10, the 4.89, the 5.3? and the 5.8, the 6.1 and the 6.5? and the 8:1 kits.  I love my 6.5:1 through the 5.12 gears myself, but I'm pushing with a lot smaller engine and higher 1st gear due to the 4 speed.  

in my sami i got 3.90 gears in the diffs and a stock case with 32's, id really like some more reduction, roasted my clutch yesterday wheelin... and the hyway its hard to get into 5th and when i do im goin like 110 km an hour...wheres a good place to find some lower gearing, I might just go for T case reduction ( dual cases or 4:1 )

in my sami i got 3.90 gears in the diffs and a stock case with 32's, id really like some more reduction, roasted my clutch yesterday wheelin... and the hyway its hard to get into 5th and when i do im goin like 110 km an hour...wheres a good place to find some lower gearing, I might just go for T case reduction ( dual cases or 4:1 )

If your not breaking diff's now or u-joints I would call trail tough and get the 4.89 to 1 x-fer case gear set and call it good.

Yea, wow, flashback. GRS1 used to be the only option back when I built mine...

IMO Go with t-case gears, leave the diffs alone. Lowering the diff gears will apply stress to the shafts, lowered t-case gears applys the stress mainly to the u-joints. Which would you rather carry spares and replace in the field? I had it down I could change a u-joint out in less than 10mins. However the stock shafts aren't the best and tend to warp at the u-joint ears. I ran 33's with a very healthy 1.3L and a GRS1, could hit 80mph on the highway easy. Even had to take a pic back in the day cause nobody beleived it. 78mph going uphill.

I'm curious did you take into account the affect your gearing and tire size had on your speedometer. Or did you take the reading with a GPS.

i run a grs2(5.89-1) with 512s on 33s=65-70 tops screeming
 my wifes has stock case 4.62-1 R/P on 31s we put 512s in it first and it would top out at 60-65 mph (really screamin)with the 4.62s she is running 70-80 mph.
 i think 538s would be ok for the 33s.
          oscar