Well we are back at it..........

     Please check the main thread for changes in the plan and why I had to make the changes.
New pics will be posted today or tommorow.

Zag

Lets please try to keep comments on this thread.......

     I am hoping Eric will make the other thread a sticky for future reference.

Thanks guys

Zag

So today was compression test day

     What did you guys think?

Zag

My FSM says to depress clutch and hold accelerator (throttle) full open. Compression should be 199.0 PSI, limit is 170.0. Max. difference 14.2psi. How about a vacuum check too.

Ooops

     Forgot about the vacuum test, I'll cover that under the tune up, thanks for the reminder.

     Depressing the clutch and holding the throttle open, to me, is a matter of opinion. I think as long as you use a consistant methodology the information will be good. I personally do it in neutral and leave the accelerator alone (had experiences with injection flooding when I floored it).
     I have the same numbers in my FSM (factory service manual), problem is I have never been able to duplicate anyones compression numbers (ok rarely) even on a fresh engine. There seems to be too many variables
- Technique (everyone seems to do it different, ie: some guys spin the engine till it won't rise
  any more, tends to give a little higher number)
- How much rpm are you really getting?
- How good the starter and battery are?
- How accurate the compression tester is?

     I use the method I do because it is consistant and with my guage (which I know reads a little low) accurate enough as a general guide with the other engine info I listed.

     Typically most small four cylinders are 150-160 psi hot in the real world when they are in good condition.

     I guess if you absolutely duplicated the FSM method with a new expensive compression tester you could match the numbers, but working in the real world of what most guys have the numbers I've used are a good guide.

Thanks for the input!

Zag

Next step

Oil change and Tune up

Zag

     Forgot about the vacuum test, I'll cover that under the tune up, thanks for the reminder.

    

Cool, I was going suggest same as I think a lot of people forget how valuable a diagnostic tool a vacuum tester can be along with a good multimeter.

Funny thing is my new 4dr (16V) is going to under go the same level of "sort out" this weekend ... maybe I'll try to snap pics too. I know my unit got an oil change at 221000 miles (sticker on the windshield), and now at 224000 it may not need it, but I wanna check everything anyway ...

zag, you going to swap some redline into the trans/tcase too? I plan on that when I get a replacement for my whiny tranny. May go redline in the diffs when I do the lockers there ...

Haven't used redline...........

     But when we did the swap around I put in AMS oil synthetic, cause I gets a deal!

Zag

Hey Snofalls

     Why don't you add your 16v stuff to the RallyKick thread? That way the newbies can see both.......

Zag

So gang............

     Did I catch everything? What did I miss? What should be added?

Appreciate any input.

Zag

I don't have a sticker under my hood, is that a regional thing? FSM says 8deg BTDC |removethispart|@ 800 rpm and calls for a jumper to be fitted across the diagnostic monitor coupler between pins C and D to fix the timing.

It may be a regional or national thing

     I've not had to do the jumper on Canadian vehicles but have heard tell of having to do it in the USA. The sticker may be a North American thing, here it dictates excact timing for the unit and plug gap, idle speed, timing etc.

I have adjusted the RallyKick thread with your update....Thank you very much "Rhinoman"!!!!

     If in doubt consult the FSM............is always great advice!

Thanks for pointing that out Rhinoman.

Zag

good info! I need to do the vacuum test as my tailpipe is BLACK and I think its running a tad rich!  Also my coolant temp gauge reads low maybe its the temp sensor? Anyway of checking it?

Hey Chet

     I've not had to test a temp sensor as of yet! I'll have to do some digging or maybe one of the guys reading the thread has an idea?

     Running rich, I've found is usually something basic.......check the usual suspects

- airfilter
- plugs
- timing
- map sensor ( I keep a know to be good used one around for testing)

Then run injector cleaner through the system.

If that doesn't get it I usually get a friend of mine to scan the vehicle.....any other ideas?

Zag