I'm new to the forum and this is my first trackick build. I have owned a couple in the past, but this is the first I will be doing a build on. I have seen a few Zuki SXS builds and decided I was going to give it a go. I just bought this 1997 Geo Tracker 4 door / manual clutch for $700.

Current plans are;
3in lift and 31's
Cut out fenders
Cut the top and do a roll bar
Half Doors
Hagen Widening Mod
3 rows of seats for a total of 7 seats.

It should be a fun project and a lot more affordable than a new SXS. Here we go!

Welcome! I look forward to your build...

-Eric

I'm still hunting down parts and wanted to track some of my findings here.

I'm looking to upgrade to a steel housing.

I have a 1997 Geo Tracker (4 door) 1.6L MPFI 16V SOHC  5 speed man. with 5.125 gears.

From reading Eric Bewley's posts I found that I can get a steel differential from a Grand Vitara or XL7, but I'm having a hard time finding one with the same gear ratio.

I did find that these years have the correct gear ratio;
99-03   Tracker   1.6L MPFI 16V SOHC   Auto or manual   5.125
99-03   Vitara   1.6L MPFI 16V SOHC   Auto or manual   5.125

Should I draw the conclusion that ANY "Manual" Grand Vitara or Tracker 99-03 will be a direct bolt-in with the same gearing?  Crossing my fingers

The Steel diff won't have the same Gear ratio. You'll have to put your r&p out of the aluminum into the steel housing.

-Eric

Finally started to make progress on my project.. cleaned up the oil pan and painted it.

• Installed the new parts;
  oil down tube o-ring
  dip stick o-ring
  oil filter
  water pump
  crank seal
  oil pump seal
  new thermostat
  timing belt
  timing belt pulley
  Dizzy o-ring small and large
  serpentine belts
  valve cover gasket
  air filter

Next I think I'll adjust the lifters!

Finally got my 16v Timing finished last night.

This diagram shows setting both the Crank and Cam to TDC and setting the dizzy to #4



Here is the actual dizzy set to #4

2000 Chevy Tracker 4cyl 500ppi (for the front springs). 1997 Honda Accord 149ppi (for the Rear springs). 2in Differential Drop bracket, 1/2in Driveline spacer, Idler arm Brace, 31x10.50R15 Mudders, and 2in rear upper control arm spacer.



Rear Lift springs installed



I might try some 2003 Jeep Liberty 6cyl 383ppi (for the Front Springs) if these Chevy tracker ones don't lift it enough.

Got the 2in Differential Drop installed last night. This is Bob Tuppers Kit. I had to grind off a rib on the bottom of the 3rd member to make it fit. There is definitely a bolt sequence to installing.

Wow I like the finding the coils at a yard. What struts are you using?

Wow I like the finding the coils at a yard. What struts are you using?

I’m going to be installing the Buick Regal struts this week. But also going to try to do a 1in reverse strut spacer on top

One step closer to the Hagen Widening mod. Two extra flanges welded on the long shaft and the short shaft got cut on the line and welded to the third flange.

Three extra axle flanges


Cut on the line if doing the Hagen Widening mod


Welded and ready for install

Following the instructions, I flattened out the edge and drew a straight level line to the outer edge. I measured over 1 inch from the original hole (which is about half way) and drilled the front hole. After that put the a-arm in place, put the bolt in front, and then rested the A-arm on a block of wood. Then I put red paint on the end of the other bolt and put it in the rear hole.  The red paint marked the spot I would need to drill. Drilling is finished and I'm ready to weld the washers on.

Washers are welded into place and painted with rustoleum.

Reverse strut spacer.. when your regal struts are too long... so you take up an inch with a reverse strut spacer that goes on top.. I ended up slice the top of the rubber lip off the lower strut spacer. It spaces the strut up about 1.15 inches.


I put some washers in there and installed the strut. Very firm fitment. Using the regal strut you have to drill out the large top Main washer to fit over the new regal strut threads.


The strut shaft fits into the lower strut mount with the metal sleeve removed.. helping keep things centered. I like how the lower strut mount plugs the hole with the bottom of the rubber mount, keeping dirt out.

I was getting my reverse strut spacer modification all tightened down and then I realized I had forgot to put in an important washer. This Large washer must be included (it is not simply a washer to secure the dust boot - on the original setup). It actually holds the strut from pushing up and ripping out the upper rubber strut mount.



In the above picture you can see that I cut the rubber lip off the top of the lower strut mount.



After the Large washer is in place, put the upper strut mount on and tighten it back up.