I figure I may as well start a build thread for my 'Kick.  It is pretty mild, and will mostly stay that way.  I drive it 50+ miles daily, so I have to keep its road manners and economy somewhat unchanged.  I bought it from a friend and it already had a 2" spacer lift and 235/75 tires.  Since buying it I have replaced the clutch with a Low Range Stage 2 unit, and replaced the clutch cable.  It had a PetroWorks dual friction in it when I bought it, and I think I got all of the miles out of it that were possible.  My friend's oldest son drove it to high school and learned to drive a stick in it, and his daughter tried to learn in it, so the clutch has seen some abuse.  I originally just replaced the clutch, and then the cable...I am now a firm believer in all of the hype about clutch cables...it was still almost undriveable after the clutch replacement, but the cable made it so much more pleasurable to drive!

While the 'Kick was down for the clutch I decided to make my own version of BRD HNTR's rocker/sliders.  I was going to just leave it with a smooth, clean rocker, but I have 2 kids, and some steps sure would help them getting in and out of the rig, so I built some steps onto the rockers.  I have only completed the driver's side, but I am glad I haven't installed the passenger yet, because living with it for a couple months has showed some changes that need to be made, and it will sure be easier to modify the passenger side before it is installed.  The main change is going to be tapering the bottom of the tubing behind the front wheel.  The main portion of the slider is 2x4 rectangular tubing, 14 gauge I believe.  The step is 14 gauge 2x2 tubing.  I know they are probably not the strongest thing ever built, but tbh, they are more for looks and the step than anything.  In the little bit of off road adventure we have had, the plastic rocker trim under the door took very little impact to come loose, and the main focus was a clean way to eliminate that.

And for a creature comfort/just for fun modification...
I bought a used aluminum toolbox to make a couple of skid plates out of, and had plenty of material, and I wanted to upgrade at least the rear speakers in the rig, so I cut out some replacement panels for the rear where the rear speakers mount and cut it out to install a 6x9 speaker.  I had to do some minor massaging to the sheet metal around the original speaker mount, but it all fit fairly nice.  I had to make 2 cuts in the aluminum and bend it slightly where the seat belt comes thru it.  Once again, I need to finish it...I had the passenger side panel cut out and one of my employees was cleaning the shop and didn't realize it wasn't just scrap and tossed it, so I have to make another passenger side panel.  BTW, I think this may be another idea I stole from BRD HNTR, I think he has something similar in his rig...if not his, then. rig I saw a pic of on google.

n the theme of almost finishing every project, but not quite...I have put off building the passenger side rock rail until I get new tires purchased...My inner redneck is hounding me to go ahead and slap some 31" Mt's on the little bugger and just deal with the consequences.  I think to do that I may have to trim the rock rail a little bit at the front...so I am wanting to get the tires on before I build the passenger side so I can just build it correctly before welding it on.
So....boredom sets in...and I had some 2x6 rectangle tubing left over from a project at work, as well as some 2x4 that was extra after cutting out the main portion of the right rail...some odds and ends angle iron...too much idle time...
IT'S BUMPER BUILDING TIME!!!!
So I will let the pictures be self explanatory, any questions, ask away!
I am using the 4 factory bumper mounting points, but I am pretty sure I will need to add to that.  I have tow bar brackets bolted to the front most cross member, and I may be moving those to the bumper.  If I do, I will probably use the plates for mounting them to bolt on some braces to mount back to the back of the bumper.  I am wanting the bumper to be removable, so I don't want to just weld it to the frame.  I don't plan on installing a winch in the bumper, but I did install a receiver tube.  When I do purchase a winch, I will just put it on a hitch mount.  I have much more use for a winch than just getting the Zuk out of a bind, so if I make that purchase, I want it to be useable for multiple jobs and applications.

So today I had a little time to do some more grinding.  And I got the filler extension under the wing.  And some more welding.  And grinding...And then, I did some more grinding!  With a little bit of filler before the paint, I think it is going to turn out nice.  And for the money I have tied up in it, I can live with a touch less than perfection.

So I am getting stoked...I may actually finish my bumper project in under a year!  My wife and kids went out of town for the weekend to visit family, so I had plenty of time to spend at the shop working on it.  I almost have it finished.  There is more welding and grinding to be done, and I have to finish the end of the passenger side, but for the most part, it is all in place.  Once I finish the welding and subsequent clean up, I will smear some body putty on and smooth it up.
I also installed some front springs I got at the salvage yard from a 2000 or so 2wd tracker.  I don't know if they will give a full 2" of lift, but it definitely gave some lift.  I think at this point the length of the stock struts may be keeping it from further lift.  I have the Gen 2 springs and 2" spacers on the front, but only 2" spacers on stock struts.

You are moving right along for a good adventure rig.  31 inch tires will take a bite out of the power, which means shifting more often on the hills.  And your bumper design is close enough to mine that you may have a problems with approach to large objects, and your bumper hits before your tire starts to climb.  (First time in Moab my wife's joke was if I could get past my bumper, I could climb it.) The trick is to approach at an angle, then just before hitting turn into the object so your tire sticks out from the side of the bumper and you can start climbing over/onto the object.  (That is not what approach angle is, but what it will mean to you.)  That or stacking rocks.
You will find that your steps will work good to use as a pivot point to go around tall objects that could push in the side of your rig.
I did not realize how much back, end of the road trips, with improvised turn arounds, meant to my kids (way back when they were impressionable by me), so have fun and enjoy the adventures.

I am hoping I haven’t compromised my approach angle too much!  It should definitely be better than the stock bumper.   It fits much closer to the body than the original and it is higher on the ends.  I am working on an idea to move the spindle forward and out, different than the Hagen mod.

On my build page on page 10 is how I moved mine, which is similar to how Muskegtracker did it on "Mr T" build.
It is critical that you move the ball joint holes the exact same amount.  I measured, marked, and drilled my plates individually, and am slightly off.  That will change you caster and cause it to want to turn toward the one with the greater caster.  If you drill the plates tacked together, then holes will be exactly the same.
I ran 31's on mine without the modification. 
Kreator makes a Coilover strut replacement, and moves the ball joint forward and outward.  Derek has one on his 4 door, and it is smooth.  It is expensive, but two complete coilover shocks and springs aren't cheap.  I really like the possibilities of his kit.

I was thinking of doing pretty much the exact thing you did BRD.  I was probably going to use 1"x4" stock, primarily because I have a random stick of it laying around.  I am probably buying a parts rig in the near future, so I will then have a spare set of control arms to play with.  I have to drive the rig to work every day, so long term tear downs don't work out well.  I need to then figure out what I need dimensionally out of the modification so I can use the left half shaft on the right...I also need to look at your front diff drop again...I am needing to drop mine, but I want to figure something out to drop the entire thing and keep it level...I don't like the idea of tipping the diff back...seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry.

I was thinking of doing pretty much the exact thing you did BRD.  I was probably going to use 1"x4" stock, primarily because I have a random stick of it laying around.  I am probably buying a parts rig in the near future, so I will then have a spare set of control arms to play with.  I have to drive the rig to work every day, so long term tear downs don't work out well.  I need to then figure out what I need dimensionally out of the modification so I can use the left half shaft on the right...I also need to look at your front diff drop again...I am needing to drop mine, but I want to figure something out to drop the entire thing and keep it level...I don't like the idea of tipping the diff back...seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry.

I was probably going to use 1"x4" stock, primarily because I have a random stick of it laying around.
I had a scrap plate of 3/8 steel that was big enough for both sides.  I moved mine forward 1 1/2", and then had to move it out 3/4".  PierPaul computed thos numbers on his computer and said they were correct.  And I have been running on them for six years.
I am needing to drop mine, but I want to figure something out to drop the entire thing and keep it level.
I dropped my middle crossmember a half inch, so my diff is still angled a little.  So I had the same opinion as yours, and I would reccoment dropping it 1"..  As you go with longer springs and spacers up front, you have to drop the diff further to keep the CV angles within their limits.  Eventually you run out of drop on the struts.  I had thought of cutting a section out of the strut towers to keep from using spacers and be able to run in middle of the struts limits.  That can affect both the camber and castoer of the front end.
seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry
Some raise the front of their rigs when checking diff oil level so it will be actuall level at that time.  Then they are actually running with a higher level in the gears.  Unless you forget to unlock your hubs the front diff see very little useage comparitively to the miles you run it as a dd.  (Although I have run from Seattle to Portland 4wd in the snow most of the way.)

seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry.

I just thought I would mention it - this is easily resolved by jacking the front of the vehicle up when filling the front axle - this was actually a recommended procedure on the early Grand Vitaras when Suzuki figured out that they had messed up on the levels, they eventually released a new axle housing that had the fill hole almost an inch higher.

Brd , was that the only added dimensions you needed to run the driver shaft on the right?  That is an eventual goal, so anything I do that can move me in that direction, I want to do.
Fordem, that sounds like a Dodge issue on 6 speed transmissions in diesel pick ups.  To get enough fluid in some of them to keep them from becoming a grenade, you filled with fluid to the top of the fill plug, then remove the shifter and add 2 more quarts.

Brd , was that the only added dimensions you needed to run the driver shaft on the right?  That is an eventual goal, so anything I do that can move me in that direction, I want to do.
Fordem, that sounds like a Dodge issue on 6 speed transmissions in diesel pick ups.  To get enough fluid in some of them to keep them from becoming a grenade, you filled with fluid to the top of the fill plug, then remove the shifter and add 2 more quarts.

I made the change to be able to fit 33's, which required more tire clearance at firewall.  After moving ball joint forward, the CV joints were too compressed, so then moved it outward 3/4".  The stub axle seems to be everyone's personal creation, in that they are cutoff and a flange is welded on.  If they are cut too short, the flange bolts will hit on the Diff mount bolts.  If cut too long, the CV will be running at full compression and fail early.
I found a machinists to make ours, and he turned and fitted them in a lathe and then trued it up after welding.
You should be able to run them on stock suspension.  I would also run the polyurethane bushing inside the seal, it helps with seal life.

I am looking at buying a parts rig, and will have an extra drivers side stub if I do...can you just run the driver side stub on the passenger side?