It'd be great to see you at the Fall Classic. I'm working something up for late summer in Northern Nevada you may be interested in as well.

-Eric

I made it back to Salt Lake City for a few days. We have the lockers installed front and rear. The front locker is in a steel front diff case. Most of the air compressor wiring is done. I need to run the tubing and test the lockers.

I plan to go with tube bumpers, front and rear. I might sell my Warn 8274 rebuild and get a more appropriately sized  winch, for the Sidekick. It looks like I'm trying to mount a Sidekick to the 8274 winch, not the other way around.

I left Salt Lake and I'm in Phoenix for a few days. I will try to grab a skid plate while I'm out here. I'm heading back to Salt Lake, when I leave here.

If everything goes well, I will head north for the Fall Classic this year. I will be stateside for the rest of the year.

Eric,

I am hoping to get some time in the next month or so, but it might be September before I can breakaway.

Let me know what and when. I will try to head out there. I will be in SLC, until mid August.

Richard

It'd be great to see you at the Fall Classic. I'm working something up for late summer in Northern Nevada you may be interested in as well.

-Eric

Drop brackets are now installed, making the CV angles much better. The rear locker is working, but I still need to finish the front locker tubing and test it. I want to run braided steel air lines, but I will start with the tubing. I ran out of time to work on it this morning and had to get back to work. I have list of other modifications and parts, but will concentrate only on the mods that will let me drive for now.

The AGM battery maintainer did it's job and the Sidekick starts right up. This battery maintainer works better than the previous one. I also have a device used on police cars that opens the positive cable connection, if the voltage drops below 12.7V. It's been in Utah since March, when we did the 2.3 engine swap. I need to plan on removing the dash to replace the ac expansion valve and replace the heater core. A good friend of mine had issues with his heater core, causing over heating problems. I have had coolant temp issues before with the J18 and I don't want issues with the new 2.3. It's nice driving with enough power to accelerate up long inclines.

I have too much work to do over the next few weeks and limited free time to work on the Sidekick or test drive the changes. I might get a weekend in a few weeks, but not enough time to get to Moab and back with any rest.

Sounds like you are taking your rig to the next level!  You may have posted this already, but what size tires are you running?  I have a set of XL7 factory aluminums and am considering using them on my rig, but am debating on what size 16" tire to go with.

255/70R16 with 1.25" spacers and factory Sport wheels.

The front tires rub the rear of the inner fender, when I air down.

I was thinking about trying 245/75/16s on mine.  I am not sure on spacers yet though.  My current wheels have a wicked offset, and while it looks cool, I think it definitely limits travel on rear suspension as the tires hit the top of the fender instead of tucking in.

The 245/75R16 will be similar in height to my 255/70R16. Without spacers I have tire rub on the frame. Without spacers, the front tires will rub the frame when turning and the inside of the fender well. The rears were rubbing the upper spring perch, before the spacers.

Don't get eBay spacers, if you can help it. I had a pair and the lugs were soft. You could see noticeable damage on the threads, after pulling and rotating tires a few times.

That is not good to hear about the spacers!  I need to start looking for some so I am ready when that time comes.  It will probably be later than sooner as the tires on the ole thing still have a lot of life left in them.

Say, what's that voltage drop out open connection police thingy you've got installed. I like that idea. It can't be as simple as a solid state relay can it?

-Eric

Eric,

I it is a fail open relay that goes between the positive battery terminal and the cable. When the battery voltage drops below 11.7V, the relay loses power and fails open. I tested it before installation and you can hear the geared contactor rotate open. It has worked well so far. If you have a battery tender, make sure to connect it on the battery, not the PriorityStart.

https://www.batterymart.com/p-prioritystart-12-volt-promax-hd.html

Say, what's that voltage drop out open connection police thingy you've got installed. I like that idea. It can't be as simple as a solid state relay can it?

-Eric

My last response was on the phone and of course I started it off with a typo.

So digging up old material from this post...the 160 amp alternator...how is it working out for you?  Any complaints or concerns?  Where did you source the alternator?  I would definitely like to/need to upgrade my alternator in the near future and I was looking at the LROR bracket for the GM alternator, but if something that does not require a new bracket is available, I love that idea!  I have already upgraded all of my battery cable wiring in anticipation of that upgrade, but just have not picked the upgrade yet.

I bought the alternator from the following company. It was a rebuild, but it looked new. It did need a 1/16" filed off the mounting location to install it. It was an easy file job.

     "BNR Alternator and Starters - (818) 442 -9082. They don't have one listed for a 1.8 liter. I bought the one listed for a 2.0 liter. They have eBay listings also."

So digging up old material from this post...the 160 amp alternator...how is it working out for you?  Any complaints or concerns?  Where did you source the alternator?  I would definitely like to/need to upgrade my alternator in the near future and I was looking at the LROR bracket for the GM alternator, but if something that does not require a new bracket is available, I love that idea!  I have already upgraded all of my battery cable wiring in anticipation of that upgrade, but just have not picked the upgrade yet.

A brief run down in bullet form of the current status:

Completed:

• J23 is doing well, no odd noises, no leaks, no high temps
  Steel front diff is in
  Front drop brackets are in, CV angles are much better
  Has light periodic stuttering at low speeds, maybe from old fuel.
  Air pump and locker switches
  Rear air locker complete and tested
  Front air locker is waiting on a fitting to arrive
  Dobinson longer front struts are in, but the bolt holes are larger. This prevents the camber bolts from working right.
  Winch cables and solenoid are ready

Next:

• Tube bumpers are on order from Trail Tough
  Will replace the 255/70R16 tires with new tires
  Most likely switching from the upgraded Warn 8274 (6hp) to a smaller winch.
  Not going to use the Aerio seats. No time to mod the mounts.
  Need AC for when it goes back to Texas, issue is in the expansion valve, requires dash pull
  Hagen mod for single CV axle type
  

Available to others:

• Empty aluminum front diff housing
  Front aluminum third member, can include 4.30 gear if you want
  Rear 1997 third member and 5.13 gears

   

I took my first off road trip with the rear locker installed. We drove up to Inspiration Point, North of Salt Lake City. On the way up, there was a hill that I couldn't have made without the rear locker. It made it up easily in 4-low. I did most of the trip locked in 2WD.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/6QAmob17rXDd8ByF6

The rear output shaft on the transfer case is leaking, again. I need to check the drive shaft yoke, to see if it is causing the seal damage.