Finally getting some time to make an update.  I also made it up to OKC to do a little more work on it.

I installed the new shocks that I had custom made by Doetsch. The shocks were previously making contact with my brake line at full droop.  The new shocks have an offset lower eye.  They also have a built in bump stop.  They are stiffer than I prefer, but have been good off pavement.

During the previous trip, I found that the rear transmission mount was in two pieces. I ordered a new one, but it was the incorrect part for a Sport. I found the correct one and had it shipped out for this trip.  I have attached a photo for reference.

I also replaced the rear (5th) door shock, so it doesn't close on me now. I pulled it off my wrecked Sport, along with many other parts.

The most important item, was checking the transfer case.  I was really concerned about the amount noise the twin stick makes.  I would have driven it home sooner, but the increase in noise from the twin stick mod had me nervous. I talked to a couple of helpful Zukiworld members  and they said it was normal.  I need to do Matt's sound deadening mod to help tone the noise down.

Interesting shock... DT did that for you? I'm a little surprised as that would but sideload on the shaft. It is a quick problem solve though..

-Eric

The shock is from their Baja Ryder line. The offset lower eye is an option. 

I wanted something more than a parts house shock, for the portion of the TAT that is going through Oklahoma and farther east.  The western half of the TAT was slow moving.  Parts of the eastern half are mostly flat.

I have been away for work, so the  Sidekick has seen slow progress. 

I spent some time adding sound damping material around the transmission tunnel and layers of material under the shifter.  I pulled the t-case shift boot from my wreck to add over the twin stick boot. It looks cleaner and I need as much material as I can to reduce the noise of the twin stick mod while in 4wd.

I have spent a lot of time removing items from the wreck.  I pulled both rear door lock actuators, so that I can replace the after market units that are in my new rig.  I also pulled most if the cruise control components, rear window wiper assembly and harness, and various harness components.  Any parts from my old rig that look better than the replacement rig are being swapped out.  The outer door felts are a good example. The outer felts were chipped and had what looked like a brushed on paint job.  The felts from my wreck were in decent shape. The wiring harness section that has the AC compressor and fan relays was also messed up with a hack job to replace the fan relay with a generic 12V relay. In order to replace that section of harness, I had to pull the previous section also.  It had all the same wires, but a slightly different connector.  I am hoping that the cruise control components don't need the entire under dash harness. I still need to pull the old steering wheel to get the indicator stalks with the cruise activation.

I am still fighting a P1875 trouble code also.  The next step is to unplug the low gear indicator switch and see if that prevents the error code.  I thought the error was due to my speedo not working properly at lower speeds, but the code didn't go away when I replaced the speedo cable and then the speedo head.

If it wasn't for slow progress, some of us would make no progress at all!  I know the feeling.  My problem is I have to drive mine everyday, so no major work that keeps it down for more than a few hours.  It is looking like you should have it finished by the time you get it home!

I was able to spend some time at home last month. I completed the front end rebuild; lower arms, shafts, new spacers,alignment. I also moved the snorkel to the new rig.

The picture shows the rig with the new stance.  The spacers didn't make it, when I shipped the parts to Seattle. I have been driving with only the new OME springs up front.  I turned some new delrin 3/4" spacers on the lathe.

The snorkel install was not too difficult, but the bolt holes needed sleep Dremel work to get the angle / position right.  The original intake plumbing in the fender was removed. The new plumbing is 3 inch aluminum intercooler pipe and two silicone elbows.  One elbow is a reducing elbow, from 3.25" to 3".  The snorkel model is SSVTA. You have to trim the inner plastic fender panel also. I used some of the material that is used for water proofing a new window or door install in your house. It keeps mud and water from being flung into the inner fender well.

I was trying to remember without reading back through everything...did it come with that roof rack, or did you add that?  I am getting the roof rack bug lately...The rig is looking pretty sweet!

I saw the roof rack in an eBay picture for a transmission. I contacted them, gave them the eBay info and they shipped it to me.

I have a Thule Aero setup for a Sidekick that I am willing to sale.  PM, if interested.

Great to see progress! ...and that roof rack. Dang! I'm still looking for one of those. No luck though.

-Eric

Holy typos, I just read my last post.  I know better than to post from my phone.

Finishing some part swaps from the wrecked rig to the new rig.  Installed the rear window wiper, which the JX doesn't have.  I swapped a few pieces of wiring harness that were in better shape on my old rig too. I still need to install the rear door locks from my old rig. The rear driverside door lock isn't working and the rear passenger side is an aftermarket part, that isn't installed properly.

I also sandblasted my Australian header and painted it. I need to find the right size donut gasket and then I can install the header.

Unfortunately, I found that the rear wiper and cruise buttons need a different wiring harness under the dash.  I pulled it from the old rig, but it will be an absolute bear to install. I am not even sure if the ECU will support the cruise control.

I had to order the gasket for the header to cat inlet.  I couldn't find the right size locally.  I am hoping to get the header installed by Monday.

My driver side headlight caught a rock that shattered most of the headlight. I am glad that it didn't hit my windshield.  I ordered a new headlight and a pair of Tracker front turn signals. I like the white turn signals up front, much better than the amber lenses.

I had previously swapped the power steering pump from the old rig, because mine started making a little noise.  The bearing had gone bad on the old one from sitting outside.  I ordered two new bearings and two rebuild kits. I rebuilt the one I pulled off the new rig and swapped them. The rebuilt pump nice and quiet.

I also pulled the previously installed trailer wiring out through a grommet and ran it towards the hitch.

The most difficult task I tried is only partially complete.  I installed a Viper alarm, so I could have keyless entry.  I tried to setup the remote start, but didn't get something right.  The lock/unlock works, but no remote start yet.

The little remaining time was used for small tweaks.  I adjusted the windshield washer sprayers for better coverage, changed the engine oil, applied dielectric grease to all connectors under the hood, and cleaned up some wire routing.

Replaced the driver side headlight and both front turn signal lenses.  The clear turn signal lenses made a much larger difference on the white rig, but I still like them more than the amber lenses on the red rig.

I like the clear marker lenses!  I chipped one of my amber lenses, definitely think clear would be a good replacement option!

Today's work started with repairing a blown high pressure power steering hose.  I replaced it with a hose from the parts rig, but it has twice the miles on it. I am hoping to repair the blown hose with AN fittings and braided high pressure hose.

Next, I started the work I had actually planned on. I pulled the exhaust manifold and replaced it with the header from Australia.  It was on my previous rig, but was all rusty from sitting in the salty air.  I sand blasted it and painted it with header paint.