Looks familiar

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So my question is, anyone who HAS completed the Calmini upper arm kit install actually driven it on the street ? Like open road, hwy, freeway ? The 2 kits I assisted with were scary on the open road to say the least. Now to be fair, both the Suzuki's I know who received the installed & DROVE them were some of the first made. ( Although we were assured 40 kits had been sold with no problems or complains ). Without any possible way to align the wheels after kit was installed, I'm just curious what modifications (we know something needed to be done) were successful to allow Camber & Caster corrections of any kind. Thanx     

you can drive mine... I'm in Oceanside!      I have the alignment good,  camber looks correct,  drives straight.   It is fine off road, main benefit I guess is just knowing it is more durable than struts.   On road... well yes it is definitely more twitchy on the highway... I had the same tires before installing the kit and I didn't have any of the scary snap reactions to the steering wheel I have now.    Note: I don't have the front sway bar anymore.   It is not a daily driver for me and if it was I would not be happy....    I do have a Detroit type rear locker that only makes it worse.   I can't say it is fun to drive on the road, it isn't. 

I have no idea what the caster currently is (or what it was with the struts) and it is not adjustable...

I like the kit, sorry this sounds so negative...  it could be my setup not helping the situation:
- I did the alignment myself, Toe with a tape measure, 4' level for the Camber, I adjusted it till the steering wheel was straight, and adjusted the Camber until it didn't pull left or right.   Caster not adjustable.
- I replaced the tie rods and center link (old ones were wobbly) which helped but still twitchy
- no front sway bar
- 235/85 16 tires (approx 32" tall)
- 2" spacers in the front (4" backspacing on wheels) to create 2" total backspacing
- lock-rite rear locker
- loose nut behind the wheel...

I use mine as a daily driver 2 weeks a month.  The kit had some "non-bolt on" issues but after alignment, SoCalSupertrucks in San Bernardino, ca, I have no complaints.

I still have the sway bar and the only thing I have noticed is that it wobbles some times but nothing that would stop me from driving it and if I change speeds it goes away. Could be the road I take since it is the same way to work most days.  With the struts it did the same thing but I try to pay more attention to things after the kit so I can see how much difference it makes with the EDSE kit

Not much difference on my 4 door but as I stated before I don't know if anyone else has installed on a 4 door

I already blew a shock and still ran so I like the fact that I can keep going which was the reason I bought the kit.  4 times blown struts stopped my weekend.  I would rather drive than be a passenger most of the time

Any idea how much wheel travel the EDSE front suspension would have if you cycled the suspension with out the spring in place

Well gang, I am joining the EDSE club.  I took advantage of the sale last weekend.  I was in Moab UT in July and blew out an OME strut and strut hat on a trail called Fins and Things. The strut failed after coming off the rock in the second picture. I had to put on a stock strut to get it back on the road and home but the strut was topped out even with a new strut hat installed upside down.  I have been trying to decide what to do next.  Options were to replace the OME struts with new OME stuts for around $400 or the Calmini EDSE for $700. The Calmini 10% off sale was the deciding factor. So I hope this all goes well and I am looking forward not having to deal with the struts anymore. 

Something for the better must now be offered with the latest EDSE Calmini kits as the 2 I worked with had absolutely no way to make a Camber or Caster adjustment. Yes the adjustable toe is still there so YES, That helps but that was it.. Is it possible the few of you who have installed the kit & state you had it aligned post a picture/description of what was adjusted on this kit to correct  Camber/Caster?

Is it possible the few of you who have installed the kit & state you had it aligned post a picture/description of what was adjusted on this kit to correct  Camber/Caster?

Here is how the Camber is adjusted...  there is a slot in this arm.. you loosen the bolt and turn it to change the camber (note the Cam washer) and tighten the bolt.

The Castor is not adjustable

Nice. Glad to see that it's now standard with the kit. Caster could be guessed prior to drilling a arm mount holes to some degree and that should do it. Thanx for the picture. 

not too bad for IFS with EDSES (orange) vs Rigid Axle (green)

I took my Zuk out to Johnson valley and I am having the shock issue where the upper arm is hitting the shock on up and down travel.  I'll try to get some pictures so everyone can see.  I know Yuri has a 4 door but he also has a Toyota front end.  Does anyone else with a 4 door have the edse kit?

I took my Zuk out to Johnson valley and I am having the shock issue where the upper arm is hitting the shock on up and down travel.  I'll try to get some pictures so everyone can see.  I know Yuri has a 4 door but he also has a Toyota front end.  Does anyone else with a 4 door have the edse kit?

me too...

My dents are closer together and near the new upper arm pivot point.  At first I thought maybe it was down travel but with 2 spots it has to be both up and down travel.  Maybe a stiffer shock.  I did figure out a 1995 Ford Aerostar rear sometimes used a Bilstein so I may try that.  They have a smaller diameter so that may help as well.

Any thoughts?  I'm game for trying to find a fix

Whoops are my downfall but they are so fun.  If money were no object I would go coil-over

Passenger side

You can't really see the bottom dent but I assure you it is there on both driver and passenger sides

Maybe this weekend I can maneuver it to get a better picture

My dents are closer together and near the new upper arm pivot point.  At first I thought maybe it was down travel but with 2 spots it has to be both up and down travel...

yours looks the same as mine to me (the lower dent) which occurs under compression.  The upper dent occurs under compression as well when the top of the shock pops through the top of the strut tower I think.

I thought I read that someone talked to Calmini about this, and they agreed it was an issue and sent them some "skinny" replacement shocks....   I haven't had time to call Calmini about this.