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Hi steer....which one?

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Offline RoOsT

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Hi steer....which one?
« on: September 07, 2012, 07:50:40 PM »
I need to order up a hi steer for my Samurai but I'd like some input on which one to get. Any inputs or suggestions are appreciated.
« Last Edit: September 07, 2012, 07:57:24 PM by RoOsT »

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Offline GO_OUTSIDE!

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Re: Hi steer....which one?
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2012, 06:05:20 AM »
I ordered the full OTT setup from LowRange. The quality seems good but the new steering arms needed some significant grinding to clear the calipers.
Also, the new linkages are now the first thing to contact the frame during upward wheel travel. I am now limited to 3-4" before they make contact. I am running a weld on SPOA with stock springs.

Whats a guy gotta do to earn some respect around here?

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Offline RoOsT

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Re: Hi steer....which one?
« Reply #2 on: September 08, 2012, 06:30:08 AM »
Did you get the Trail Gear or the Sky kit?  I have the SPOA with stock springs right now but I have a set of 2" Bonzeye springs that I'll be installing as soon as I get a hi steer. I have a dropped pitman arm on it right now, Should i rjn that along with the hi steer or should i Use a standard arm? I'm going to install my power steering at the same time.

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Offline GO_OUTSIDE!

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Re: Hi steer....which one?
« Reply #3 on: September 08, 2012, 03:43:17 PM »
I cant recall for certain but I think mine is a Trail Tough. Call them and they will recommend what to do with the pitman arm.
Whats a guy gotta do to earn some respect around here?

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Offline mrdezyne

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Re: Hi steer....which one?
« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2012, 07:02:07 AM »
If you can make up a custom steering link rod, the Mercedes arms work really well, for a 1/2 Hi or full Hi steer...

More info:
Mercedes High Steer

I can do one of two things:
1. do a 1/2 hi steer where I only take one (1617 left mercedes arm) and put it on the right side and connect only a modified tie rod to it. and leave the drag link below the springs in it original possition.

2. put both mercedes arms on and then shorten the drag link bar to fit between the mercedes arms and leaving the tie rod connected to original location on the drag link bar.

I also had to purchase some new bolts for the mercedes arms because they are fatter and the original bolts will not work.
2ea - m12x1.25x50mm
2ea - m12x1.25x60mm
from lowes 5 bucks each.

proper lengths (M12-1.25x50 and M12-1.25x60), with the proper markings (8.8 or 10.9) on the heads.

I will need to drill out the center holes of the mercedes arms with a 9/16" drill bit. This way the holes will line up with original holes on the samurai.




heres what i found with part numbers models and years .126 S-Class Sedans Chassis Engine Model Years HP Weight WB
W126.032 M116.961 V8 380SE 1984-85 155 3685
W126.033 M116.961 V8 380SEL 1981-83 155 3640 121.1"
W126.035 M116.965 V8 420SEL 1986-91 201 3850
W126.037 M116.963 V8 500SEL 1984-85 184 3730
W126.039 M117.968 V8 560SEL 1986-91 238 4125
W126.120 M617.951 I5 300SD Turbodiesel 1981-85 120 3625
W126.125 M603.961 I6 300SDL Turbodiesel 1986-87 148 3835
126.025 103.981 I6 300SEL 1988-91 177 3630
126.024 103.981 I6 300SE 1989-91 177 3585
126.135 603.970 I6 350SDL Turbodiesel 1990-91 134 3850
126.134 603.970 I6 350SD Turbodiesel 1991 134

SO FAR IT SEEMS to be all 4, 5, and 6 cylinder Mercedes from 1968, to 1978. it specifically does NOT include cars with hydrulic adjustable suspension, V8 engines, or taxi / limosine models.

essentially, the first thing to look for would be a car of the correct vintage with a trunk badge reading 200, 220, 230, 240, 250, 280, or 300 on the back of a sedan or coupe, then look to see if there are nitrogen spheres alongside the shocks under the rear end ( those are on the adjustable suspension cars)

The Mercedes 126 chassis automobiles were manufactured from 1981 to 1991. Mercedes 126 chassis owners praise the ride and handling even compared with cars manufactured today.