fordem:  Yep, I remember my electronics class.  I'm just going off their page.   

LED's can get weird when your trying to get numbers, some are going off an equivalency scale rather then true watt usage.  Are they judging the bar as a 120W equivalent?  Your hit the nail on the head with your lumens comment, you can't use candle power as that is a measurement of a single beam of light and LED light bars use multiple bulbs.

Another advantage of the LED lights is they tend to be sturdier.  I had my hood come up at 30+ and smash right a pair of Rigid Industry LEDs.  Only damage was having to straighten them out.  Now I have locking hood pins. 

You also need to remember that seldom does your electrical system run at 12vdc, and if it does, you are having issues........LOL..... 14.3vdc is your friend...LOL

You could run a power supply to bump up the voltage to 24vdc for the LED's without consuming alot of juice. I have also seen battery setups that use 2 batteries, one for the vehicle and another used in conjunction for the LED lighting at 24vdc.

Now here is the perfect switch, rated to 20amps. I have two coming along with a few other switches(lockers,lights,compressor)http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5

The links are broken - and as a matter of fact, I get a '403' forbidden error even from the default page of that server

I think I'll keep my compressor on a relay - a 40A one minimum - it's rated at 30A, and the first time I used it, it melted the plastic of the 30A fuse that was supplied - it didn't blow the fuse, just melted the plastic - I tightened up the clips replaced it with a decent quality fuse, and have had no further issues there.

fordem:  Yep, I remember my electronics class.  I'm just going off their page.   

LED's can get weird when your trying to get numbers, some are going off an equivalency scale rather then true watt usage.  Are they judging the bar as a 120W equivalent?  Your hit the nail on the head with your lumens comment, you can't use candle power as that is a measurement of a single beam of light and LED light bars use multiple bulbs.

Another advantage of the LED lights is they tend to be sturdier.  I had my hood come up at 30+ and smash right a pair of Rigid Industry LEDs.  Only damage was having to straighten them out.  Now I have locking hood pins. 

Welcome to the world of consumer electronics advertising - where manufacturers quote the highest number they can justify - where 20W per channel RMS, 4 channel amplifiers become 100W PMP per channel, where 300mbps wireless networks can deliver less than 100 mbps, and apparently 120W LED light bars can do it whilst consuming less than 100W.

And all of the above can legally be done under the existing "truth in advertising" legislation.

Quote from: talonxracer on March 13, 2012, 04:47:52 PM

Now here is the perfect switch, rated to 20amps. I have two coming along with a few other switches(lockers,lights,compressor)http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5

The links are broken - and as a matter of fact, I get a '403' forbidden error even from the default page of that server

I think I'll keep my compressor on a relay - a 40A one minimum - it's rated at 30A, and the first time I used it, it melted the plastic of the 30A fuse that was supplied - it didn't blow the fuse, just melted the plastic - I tightened up the clips replaced it with a decent quality fuse, and have had no further issues there.

Try this link, http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5

Even with the switch rated for 20A, I will still use a relay, every foot of excess wire will see a voltage drop, why create a subpar electrical nightmare? LOL

So, when do we get some night shots of the new lights in action? 

I am going to get them connected up electrically today. I think I will just use a generic switch for now and leave it hanging free untill the zombie switch gets here. That way I can snag a couple pics tonight.

Love them LED lights. Just swapped out my broken back up's for LED ones. Nice stuff.

The Zombie Lights switch I ordered got here in yesterdays mail. I got a chance to put it in and finish up the wiring. The switch doesnt fit perfectly, the fit on the sides is fine, but the rocker shell itself contacts the dash a little when fully inserted and wont work, I had to space the switch out just a hair. The other option(and what I will do here shortly) is to bevel the end of the rocker contacting the dash. With the location I picked it is the top that has issues, if I put it in the lower slot the bottom end would need work. With two switchs installed both ends of the actual rocker shell will need work to have enough clearance.


Here is just the high beams


 with LED's


They already saved me impact damage from 3 deer blitzing off the mtn because of a forest fire that just started. The amount of quality useable light that goes out in front directly as well as to the sides is incredible. I need to play around with aiming them a little, they are pointed just slightly down right now from the looks of it. Now to get a spot pattern

I ordered several of Hanma's new LED lights to use as driving lights, they are 4 x 10w CREE modules with 25 degree spot pattern. I have 2 on the way to compliment the flood pattern of the 180w light bar, 138$ shipped.

I have tossed around several ideas for locations for permanent mounting of the lights, from simply keeping them on the el-cheapo push/light bar, a tube frame with plastic visor on the "A" pillars to getting a Rally tops hard top front section and mounting the lights to that. I have finally decided on a tube frame/bar attached to the stock Targa bar. I have a handfull of 1" schedule 40 and 80 REW pipes (1.3"od) and some 1/8" plate to create the mount.

Nice lights 

I look forward to seeing the beam patterns of the 40W spot LEDs. - I've always been curious as to how well they focus.

I rearranged the lighting, I cut a 24" long piece of 1x1 1/8" wall aluminum. I then painted it black, mounted it to the existing light tabs on the push bar from the bottom and then mounted the LED bar to that, then I mounted the 40w modules above that from the top of the push bar, I will trim those shorter and use cap nuts.
 

I only have one of the spot modules electrically connected when I had to pickup to deal with family crap, hopefully I can get them finished up tomorrow before dinner and get some pics up of the spot modules.

That's some serious candle power!

Very sharp!