I need some pictures or a direction to a thread of cheap square tubing body lifts. I know there is some on here but Ive been looking for awhile and cant find it. Pictures or some tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Generaly . Body lifts over 1" are BAD NEWS...Can't help you....Boxcar...

Basicly its not very complicated, buy this kit or did this kit, find uhmw shaft or steel tube and go for it

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki-sidekick-tracker-2-inch-body-lift.html

Why Would a 2 inch body lift be bad? ive seen alot of guys running them

You run the risk of not having long enough fuel/brake lines, stretches out your wiring harness sometimes, steering is being moved up... just small stuff you could run into at a 2"+ body lift.

You run the risk of not having long enough fuel/brake lines, stretches out your wiring harness sometimes, steering is being moved up... just small stuff you could run into at a 2"+ body lift.

Add to that the radiator will be 2 " below the center of the fan (change the hoses and loose the shroud --live with the heating issues) . Or move the radiator. Body flex characteristics are changed (cracking issues) All for what advantage???
When you factor in all the labor and changes that all cost extra hidden $$$$. Just do an OME or similar propper 2" lift that WILL WORK....Boxcar...
PS: There are very few QUOTE free or cheap lifts that truly pencil out, Or work as advertised.....

I run a sky manufacturing 2" body lift and the only problem i had was with the shifters ,you have too weld a piece of rod 2" long to get your shifter boots too work and inside console back together so it doesn't look so ghetto there is enough play in the fuel filler hose and in the steering and brake lines are long enough never had any problem with fan or anything else. but i hear if you go any higher than that like a 3" body lift then you have to replace brake lines. just my 2c

I assume this is for your 93 Tracker.

1st off alot of the body lift issues are dependant on how you intend to drive your ride. As a daily driver / occasional off roader they work out fine.

My 1st choice although would be Jeff's coil spacers. For the money and the information he provides it is a much better deal! Likewise it doesn't adversely effect your ride / handling and you are free to wheel off road in confidence of not doing any damage to your body.

However, if you choose a body lift I would definately not go highr than 2" for the reasons the Beagle mentioned.

Quote from: 87Suzi on February 28, 2012, 08:35:07 PM

You run the risk of not having long enough fuel/brake lines, stretches out your wiring harness sometimes, steering is being moved up... just small stuff you could run into at a 2"+ body lift.

Add to that the radiator will be 2 " below the center of the fan (change the hoses and loose the shroud --live with the heating issues) . Or move the radiator. Body flex characteristics are changed (cracking issues) All for what advantage???
When you factor in all the labor and changes that all cost extra hidden $$$$. Just do an OME or similar propper 2" lift that WILL WORK....Boxcar...
PS: There are very few QUOTE free or cheap lifts that truly pencil out, Or work as advertised.....

the rad was on the frame, so if you lift the cab there no effect with the center of the fan and heating issues. ?

this site provide a 3"body  lift kit with everything you need maybe pricy but all you need is on the picture

http://www.masterkit1.com/Sid2_body_89-98AN_09.htm

As the guy who put the first body lift on a Sidekick back when everyone said it couldn't be done. I have to tell you that lil Suzy has had a 2.5" body lift on her for 17 years and have not experienced any significant problems with it at all. If you have any interest in doing it yourself I wrote an article back long ago about how to do it. Here is the link... http://home.golden.net/~haida/suzuki/tech/tips/lift.html. If I had to do it again I would weld the box tube to the frame and bolt the body to the box tube. when you bolt the box tube to the frame there is interference with the body bolt. If you use a bolt to align the box tube with the frame weld it in place then remove the bolt, it allows more room for body flex. Hope this helps...

I haven't decided on what to do yet. I already have the body off of the frame so i thought now would be the best time to do it. I have put a 2-2.5 lift on it to run 31s but i just wanted the option to run 33 inch tires on it if i felt the need. And money is an issue here too. This has basically been a budjet build for me so i didn't see spending any money if i didn't have too. I'm just and 18 year old kid with just a little cash

Your right no radiator issues. I don't know what I was thinking....Brain fart...To long screwing with CJs....
 I realize now we are discusing a Kick (Ifs) But I still wouldn't recommend a body lift, unless your just interested in a lifted Looking ride...Still doesn't pencil out....Boxcar...

Why not set the body down to see what kind of clearance you need to clear 33s then decide if you can get it with a 1" body lift. That way you don't do it then find out it still won't clear. And honestly I would just go to like 32/10.50s.. 33/11.50-12.50s always rub something unless you are using a lot of suspension lift. At least in my experiences.... btw Cody I'm 18 too and I'm on a budget with my samurai. Where do you live?

I must be missing something.... Jeff's coil spring spacers are close if not cheaper than a body lift. Add the shocks and the kit is over but the lift is done right with no issues or strains to the steering. No fear of safety issues due to the seperation length between the body and the frame. No cutting away or adding to the shifter  or surronding areas areas. No extending of brakelines, fuel filler hoses, etc. No fabbed up bumper mounts.

Granted I have used the body lift in conjuction with spring lifts. Trying to keep the body lift to the most minimal amount of lift is a must in my opinion if you plan on wheeling it much.

That is not to say that it is not possible to create a body lift that is safe and can get the job done. Another factor to consider is the laws of your state too. Some states have outlawed these as well as SPOA lift blocks on the front of on the road 4wd vehicles.

Tux, he wants to build his own body lift, says it's cheaper. Im sure it'd be close to the same price.